Custom Teak & Teak Cabin Side Repair for 1964 Rhodes Reliant on Gulf Coast?

Yeah. That boat got neglected on the varnish work along the way somewhere. But is a couple years older than me and my back is shot which is not cosmetics.

So, I get it now, there isn't room for bungs. Sorry I was slow on that.

what about redoing the screws proud with cup washers? I think it'd look better woth bronze screws and cups bedded in butyl, but that is just me...sometimes embracing the screw, rather than a bad attempt to hide looks better...varnish work would be trickier around them, but no more than now

or, add veneer

or like OP said, remove the screws; shoot or trowel epoxy or putty under the edges or into the hole and bung no fastener heads....probably bung the same time like a bonded bung..if it fails really bad and delams; you can use the epoxy injection method I mentioned...the part that sucks about this idea is a lot of the bungs and holes around them look kinda bad and if you ever want the major repair; you'll have a bad time in these epoxied areas

all a bit of a crapshoot at this point versus the redo

ps-the scrapers I use with a heat gun are made from sharpened 6mm okume..it requires great care and attention, but as things look now; a single scorch mark would be nothing

 

I have attached a PDF of a powerpoint presentation made by a chap in England re the restoration of the woodwork on his 32' fibreglass Westerly Fulmar - I thought there might be some good tips here for the OP.

I saw it on this thread on the YBW Forum -
Woodwork refurbishing, my recent PowerPoint presentation. https://forums.ybw.com/index.php?threads/woodwork-refurbishing-my-recent-powerpoint-presentation.560807/