Hedley Nicol Trimaran Plans

Hi everyone. I saw the discussion on the rudder issue. Looking at the old design sketches at Shawn's yard, Wanderer's were designed with underslung rudders to accomodate the outboard in a pod at the stern as Cavalier stated. In mine and most I have seen the old remainders of the pod are left insitu when the stern is filled in. This is the case with mine and I left it in place as a shelf to support the new rudder tube and as a shelf during the rebuild. At the moment I have just fitted all the new windows after cutting and shaping the Acrylic. Will post some new pictures shortly once I get used to this new Apple computer lol.

taow or anyone if you get to Brisbane don't hesitate to drop into Multihull Marine at Ransome for a chat.

 

We went with acrylic too but are a ways from installing. We are getting good results using a bosch jig saw at low speed with a t101bf blade. The t101a plexiglass blade is slower and hotter but a local supplier sold us a old version (we won't be going back) , not worth the extra money to see if the new version works any better . A reminder to people who haven't worked with plastics before - get scrap to test your tools and speeds on before you start on the real thing , different plastics cut differently.

 

will do. i should be back in bris in 4 or so weeks

whats the moorin fees like there? and is there any aval?

 

Unluckily, Shawn's yard is guarded by a low railway bridge so it necessitates dropping your mast to get to the yard. So mooring there is not feasible unless your plan is to come into the yard to complete work. Berths are available at manly but are costly. I have a mooring at Point Halloran (Victoria point) that should be empty.

Cavalier - I have tried all sorts of blades for acrylic over the years and generally got the job done with a bit sticking back together by the cut material. However, this time i bit the bullet and bought a acrylic blade as I had 8 windows to cut. It cost me a fortune and I was sceptical, but have to eat my words and now two of my pro boatbuilder mates are now using them. It cut perfectly clean with no sticking and didn't care what speed i used. Typically, I have thrown the packet away, but will get the details of the blade and post here. I have finished the edges in a number of ways, planing flats etc, but this time after cutting and sanding smooth I put a 4mm rounding over router bit over the corners and like the result.

 

I might try the router idea. The t101bf hardwood and plastic blade by bosch cut clean without any plastic re welding/sticking but the new old stock t101a plexiglass blade did tend to melt one brand of acrylic but not another brand (samples) that was also thicker to make things confusing.

 

Project Nicol?

http://www.yachtforums.com/forums/general-catamaran-discussion/15561-do-you-know-trimaran.html
This looks like an old Cavalier not a Vagabond MK 2. If it isn't completely rotten it might be a good project for someone in Oz. While it might need 10 grand to go sailing if it was free or very cheap it would be worth it as they sell for more. The Cavaliers are roomy, good sailing boats with good payload. Alan Nicol said they don't have plans for the Cavalier but they are a cruising version of the Vagabond MK 2 with more freeboard built similar to the Vagabond and Wanderer. A Cavalier will carry more and be faster than a Wanderer.

 

ok i have a question on that pic in your post link cavalier,
http://www.yachtforums.com/forums/ge...-trimaran.html

i noticed the side hull keels are some what shorter then the the keels on my old girl, at the moment i have just found that the glassing on the bottom edging of my keels have split glassing exposing the wood to the water, and need to make repairs asap, is there any reason why i couldnt cut my side hull keels shorter as to whats in the pic in the link above? my thinking is this would remove any damaged wood from the lower parts of the keels and might reduce a little drag as well,
of course remembering i really have no idea if this is work able and or if it will effect the boat in any poss or neg ways, ??? so what do you think?

 

the link on my post doesnt seem to work but is the same link as on cavalier mk2 post above mine

 

Cutting them shorter will only reduce skin friction drag a bit, but will have little effect on reducing induced drag.
However it will reduce the fins effectiveness as a leeway preventor.
Better to just restore any rotted wood, re-glass them and leave them as designed.

 

ok sounds good old sailor, but both boats are pretty close to each other yes? and theres one old wander that has had the side keels fully removed and a centre drop keel added, and sounds good to leave but what do i about the damaged wood? and didnt the design change as new models were made? as models progressed?

 

Removing the existing keels and replacing them with a daggerboard and case is a whole new ball game.
You have to consider the extra design, work and cost ---together with the loss of space inside the hull.
Low aspect ratio keels are a good compromise in a cruising Tri.

 

sorry i ment the dagger board was added to the centre hull and side hull keels fully removed, but i think you just confirmed my thoughts with what you said anyway, will have to see what others thoughts are
and i dont wanna remove my keels fully just want to cut down as much as needed rather then to rebuild the whole keels them selfs, if you get where im coming from

 

No the designs never changed before Hedley was lost at sea in 1966.

 

no im talking after 66 and beyond, as in the link above, or is this someone elses design, and even if so there ideas are working yes? and id still have keels on the outer hulls they just be 200 to 300 shorter then whats on there now, so i think little effect would arise from the leeway issue

 

200 to 300mm i mean