Ok back at it again - didnt think the chines would be this difficult to build, hopefully they will stay on once the tooling gel n resin get warm...
Maybe you could comment on this I found in a thread too old to reply on...Seems like you feel narrow strakes and shorter the better... I want to...
I think I need to chop the strakes down even more, they need to be skinnier....all the filler is making them 5/16" wide One side of the V is...
It is strange because sometimes I dont know if I should grind away more or fill the areas around it.... I think I am reaching the limits of my...
really getting beat down over that past month on and off trying to get the strakes on the boat - I puddled too much duratec to try to cover the...
I looked at a few materials Home Depot has...noticed the melamine is all orange peeled up close...was considering acrylic but felt the Smooth MDF...
That is good information for potential future projects even, as it could be used as a temporary mold Maybe a little off topic, For more complex...
Did someone say acrylic would work well if I spray PVA over it first? I could actually use the acrylic for another use after so it wouldnt go to...
Yea i think I need to make them more narrow
.375 total between two chines? That would make each chine less than 1/4" going for 1.5%
Good point about the width, They will be about 7/16" wide...I was considering cutting them down to 3/8" wide since the hull bottom is about...
I am starting with rectangular pieces because I will chisel/plane/sand them down to triangular after they are glued to the boat.... Finding it...
First pictures shows how the strake does not stay parallel with the keel, curving upwards towards the bow, the strake itself is straight though,...
I'm surprised how much finesse it need for fairing, it takes some skill putting body filler down, and when I do I typically put too much down. I...
I am glad you picked up on that because I was considering filling the transom area, instead i decided to grind out the bump because it ended up...