Sea Sled madness. It’s in my brain.

Parts are extremely well made, but there are almost no instructions. That's not too surprising. Note what it says on the parts sheet: factory certified mechanic. There are none around, so it's me. But Bay told me over the phone they have folks on staff who will help as much as I need.

 

I'm sure the folks at Bay Mfg will tell me what to torque to.

 

Loctite Schedule:
Red on the studs and blue on the nylocs?

Are you taking the grinder to the hull or just scraping?
How much can you do from shore?

 

No loctite schedule given. If Bay doesn't provide one, I'll consult with you.

Can't do anything from shore here.

I'll probably razor off the beard.

 

I have only done one l/u. I was always a bit nervous about how well it all fit.

Can that be pressure tested after assembly some way?

 

It's pretty straight forward. The pic on the instruction is viewing the extension from below. The stud threads going into the original leg must be loctited, but not the lock nuts; they are torqued to the normal value, used when mounting the lower gear housing after changing impeller. The water tube extension is critical; it must enter the old pipe end straight. Put the gear in fwd position before dismounting and take care not to move either upper or lower shift shaft during assembly.

Start by fitting the studs, then check clearance between housing extension and water pump housing while the loctite is hardening. There is only one critical step regarding tightness, and that is for the water pipe, and there is no way to pressure test it.

Put some waterresistant grease on the lower splines on engine- and shift shafts and to the lower end of the water pipe to avoid future sticking and trouble when changing impeller.

 

@baeckmo , you never fail to impress me. The breadth and depth of your knowledge. I have my own fields of experience, so I know the cost and the value of all that learning.

It takes decades for us to reach our full power, and just when we finally arrive, our eyesight, hair, and endurance start to go. God must be an iron. Because he likes irony, like a glutton likes gluttony.

 

Working on the grid by dock light.

 

Is there anything quite as romantic as the dour glow of High Pressure Sodium?

 

The manufacturer does not spec which Locktite to use. If you use the BLUE, the one that can be removed with hand tools only, ie the light duty product, then when torqueing the upper nut, there is a chance that the
cured Loctite joint in the aluminum casting will shear, reducing the effectiveness of the Loctite interface.

If you use RED Loctite, the stronger one, if you ever have to remove the stud, you have to apply heat to break the bond. Applying heat to the casting may reduce its strength if it is a T-xxx series ( and more than likely an H-xxx series) casting plus introducing the facet that
the incorrect application of heat may cause distortion and or a pure melt.

So, which one would you use and which sequence of joining would you use.

If you think that you will never remove the studs from the aluminum casting, then you could go with the stronger RED Loctite but the procedure needs to be addressed.

I would think that you have all the pieces ready, apply the chosen Loctite to the studs and quickly bolt up the lower leg before the Loctite dries and makes a dry joint in the stud to aluminum casting after the nut has been torqued to
specs.

I do not see a torque spec on the nuts for the studs. An installer might look on torque specs for stainless bolts forgetting that this torque spec assumes that you are tightening the bolt into an internal thread of satisfactory strength
to accept that torque limit. Ie SS to SS. Not SS to the softer/weaker aluminum housing.
The company should provide this torque value and it would be much below a standard SS bolt to a SS receiving internal thread.

I suspect that the proper torque would be much below the recommended torque limits that can vary by way of the common bolt/stud material. Ie 304 or 316.

 

You've got that backwards, Barry.
Red is the stronger bond than blue loctite.

 

BB you are quite correct. I made the corrections above

 

The service manual for the OB states torque for the original bolts. I'm assuming I can use that torque on the studs, since in both cases the limit is the aluminum casting.

Bay mfg, well Cheryl Kirk at Bay, tells me all their guys are always keen to get off the production floor and on the phone with a client. It makes a nice break from casting aluminum. And they've been in business since the 60's. Lots of experience available on the phone. Unless they advise otherwise I'll use the red loctite. It's a permanent change, or so it seems to me.

 

I'd use the blue 243. For me, the only question is whether to reduce the torque a bit. I'd think not, but Henkel tells you to reduce torque when using it.. Some of their recommendations are 20% torque reduction, but I can't see the reason. For 80#, I'd probably only reduce 5# after maybe even calling them. Henkel was real friendly on the phone, I used their green or yellow for my steering bolts cuz I had to extend them. They were green and I went yellow or some such...can't recall atm.

After I ran for say 10 hours, I'd check my torques, or maybe 1 hour and 10..

PS! No idea what torque spec is; the above is just an example of what I might do. I'd have a hard time dropping from 80 to 66 unless someone explained to me a wet torque vs a dry torque were somehow different or Henkel's reasons for the big reduction.

 

Speculating could go on all day, or longer, just talk to the "always available" techies at Bay Mfg... no?