Sea Sled madness. It’s in my brain.

Re the triangular section timber strips in way of the joints between the bulkhead and the hull, will they be glassed over as well, or are the timber strips in lieu of over laminations?

 

I use them in place of regular thickened epoxy fillets. They are lighter, much cheaper, and faster to place. They still require a tiny amount of cabosil/epoxy right at their edges, but the quantity is so small I apply it with the glass, with no fear of them distorting out of a smooth radius. Obviously there are locations where I'm still doing epoxy fillets, but that's not by design. I just ran out of precut fillets, before I ran out of energy or daylight. They get the same number of layers of biax as a regular fillet.

 

Are you tempted to hinge the over-hanging stair treads with latches to seal them down.
They'd be stronger glassed in with a 6" or 8" access hole on the riser.
But the access and convenience of "tread-lids" might be nice.
Fast access and storage for flares, smoke, fenders, dock-lines, rope for example.

 

I... think I can do that. Watertight bottoms in the compartments, drains through the stair risers. Be very handy quick access storage. No such thing as too much storage... unless you're a hoarder.

 

Some more good images.

 

Cold but clear today!
Great shots John.

 

Yeah that's looking great! You're really moving!

 

Ace photos John - she is really coming along nicely.
Have you kept a log of your hours to date?
It must be at least a couple of thousand?
How thick is the plywood roof, and what is the longest unsupported span length / width of the frames underneath?

 

Nice, happy pics lead to a happy boat.
Good construction leads to a strong boat.
Cool design makes for a fun boat.
Check, check, check; it's hard to all but, to me, you have.

Good on ya, y'all. You deserve to be proud - you have earned that.

 

I'd guess around thousand hours.

The roof is ⅜"/10mm plywood, with 14oz glass on both surfaces. There's a 4½" crown over a 10' span. The roof beam spacing varies for different loads. The aft beams are only 29" c2c, because I'm imagining a simple crane to lift cold tired divers out of the water. The forward beams are 50" c2c, so that a standing operator has nothing they might bonk their geranium on. As a 6'4" guy, I've had some stitches...

I've walked around up there. No deflection I could feel.

 

Mock up of door fram and window frame, checking for skipper's blind spot.

 

Great pics John!

How's that forward door going to work?
The bottom half swings out, the top half swings in?

How about the top just being a window that hinges at the top against the 2 x 8?
While the bottom of the window swings all the way up to a ceiling hook.
EDIT: OR, just make the top window slid across in front of the passenger window.
That would make the weather sealing easier against the door.

 

That's a lot of ideas, BB.

My thinking was originally the door was in two halfs, both hinged on the port side, so you could open just the top half for air. Now I'm imagining the top half swings in to the ceiling. Bottom half still swings out to port.

Does it look worth the trouble to install tiny triangle windows in those little spaces?

 

Maybe instead of the "Y" structure, something like a hockey stick? That has fewer parts, less blind spot. Then Bluebells suggested options are even better.

 

As you have the pillars already, would it be feasible to have a simple vertical door (in either one or two sections)?
Although if it opened outwards, it could only open 90 degrees, as the forward sloping windows would get in the way.
But visually it would form a nice 'break' in the window line at the front, rather than having a continuous line of forward sloping window?
I see why you would like to have windows in those triangular spaces, re the blind areas - in the same fashion as the corner pillars on a car can form very effective blind spots when driving (I am amazed by what has managed to hide behind the pillars on my car).