Sea Sled madness. It’s in my brain.

On December 16, John posted something about the transom with a picture and structural plywood reference and mentioned an angle.

when we see these pictures; all spatial relation is lost and the transom looks perfectly square and planked to me; thus I am being a pest or more like a child with tell me a story daddy!

Anyhow, the transom angle is measure to waterline; not hull bottom. I built my transom at 14 degrees which was 2 degrees past manufacturer rec, but I think I can manage with engine adjustments and the jackplate. I found out two days ago my lower bolts land smack on the cleat edge, so time to cut into my 2 splashwells and grind some cleat away and then repair the access holes! It feels like I ate the apple Eve offered me somehow. Oh well.

just looking out for you John; that angle looks too sharp in the 2d world we see here

 

The transom is 20" tall, 2¼" thick, at 14°.

 

It's not too difficult. The PL is significantly tougher than the wood though, so if I'm careless it's easy to cut into the wood.

 

I'm working from Gerr's Elements of Boat Strength. So my numbers are correct, from that source. Unknowns to me are bulkhead spacing, and specifics of lay up. He calls for 4¾ bulkheads or ring frames at my size. (He says round up). I have 6 bulkheads, and the ram, which is an utter beast. Evenly spaced bulkheads would be at 4'4". But evenly spaced bulkheads would make a pretty useless boat. I have spaces:
3' 2' 4' 4' 5' 4' 4', roughly.

In previous searches about scantlings on this forum, I found that the general consensus was that his scantlings are a bit heavy. I'm okay with a bit heavy. I mean to work this boat hard.

 

Are those measures bow to stern?

 

Yes. Ram to transom.

 

I'd be inclined to drill new holes and raise those bolts just enough to get clear of the cleat.

 

Would it clog sandpaper ? I'm guessing it might well do.

 

It might, so he has to scrape most of the excess away.

No can do; the upper bolts are at 2" from the transom top; they can't go up or down. I just gotta cut in and cut away the cleat for the washers and nut.

 

this is good news; it is impossible to see the angle in the pics and I miscounted the depth somehow..

 

Honestly, I think you need to put an intermediate in the 5' 4" gap. Just make it up to the sole a/o up the sides a couple-4 inches in

I have a wide section in the Skoota and I plan to stiffen with shelving for clothes and shoes..

 

fg,
I don't believe there is a 5' 4" gap.
5' was the largest I saw in the list.

Can you imagine how stiff those 9/16" planks are going to be with all that E-glass on either side.
I trust Gerr and John's work up on this.
As you say, interior fit-out would/could add rigidity.

John,
~3' 9" would be average BH spacing not 4' 4" for six BH, 7 spaces.
26' LOA right?

 

If more bulkheads will spoil things, some internal longitudinals between the bulkheads would suffice, on the broader parts.

 

Space divided into 6, by Gerr's recommended 5 bulkheads, as a point of comparison to what he intended as spacing.

 

I think it will be fine. I have to add floors for the sole anyway. Tabbed in after the hull bottom is glassed inside.