Advice for amateur builder- Fishing Skiff- South African suppliers

Hi Members,
Before I start, I'd just quickly like to introduce myself. My name is Hannes from South Africa. I have been boating and sailing for a few years and I have my CAT C deep sea skippers. I have recently developed the urge to start building fishing skiffs and house boats and, through my time doing research, managed to stumble upon your lovely forum here.

The Project: Pipedream 2.0 Fishing Skiff designed by Timmy Turtle.

Below I have attached a few photos and a rudimentary design of the skiff. Its made from marine-grade plywood (18mm and 9mm), Nightingale Grasp PUA glue, fiber-glass and Total Boat epoxy resin, with microspheres and epoxy resin used as fillers. There is a full series on Youtube on how the skiff is built and what steps to take etc and I have attached a link at the end of this post where the builder catches his first 170lb marlin 40km offshore with the skiff. It is really worth the watch, even if just for its comedic value.
I have now ordered the full plans from Australia, but there is a few questions I have before purchasing any materials.

1. The Marine Plywood. The entire boat is made from Marine Plywood with the exception of a few pieces of pine used around the internal edges of the storage compartments. Marine Ply is very expensive here in South Africa. Will it really be necessary to use Marine Ply if all of the wood is going to be encapsulated in fiberglass and/or epoxy resin? Can I get away with using normal Plywood provided that I use a copious amounts of good quality epoxy resin?

2. The Glue. The boat is stitched and glued using Nightingale Grasp PUA polyurethane glue, which has a "strong, highly water resistant bond (d4 classification) and is suitable for the marine environment". Certified to EN204 D4. However, in SA the closest match I could find was Brummer's Balcotan polyurethane glue, which fully waterproof and not only water resistant. Has anybody here had any experience with Balcotan?

3. The steel. The skiff will only be used for inland lakes and estuaries so it wont be exposed to salt water that much. In some areas such as the transom or the support planking on the bow there is a need for some screws. I understand that galvanized screws are out of the question and that stainless steel requires air to ensure its anti-corrosive properties. I have also seen copper or brass screws used in old boats. What is the best steel to use for fasteners, nuts, bolts or screws?

To those who have read this far, I thank you for your time and look forward to any advice, ideas or inputs you may have to offer. I you have any recommendations on good epoxy resin suppliers in South Africa it would be great to hear from you.

Kind regards,
Hannes

The Marlin Video:

 

Welcome to the forum.

Long live the urge to build boats.

A few cautions, but not ment to discourage

Marine plywood is expensive everywhere.

Absolutely.

Not really. Marine plywood is more than water proof gluing. It can not have any interior voids and usually has thinner layers of wood, so more plus to obtain the same thickness as ordinary plywood. 9mm house plywood usually has 5 layers were as marine has 7 or 9. Voids eventually become water pockets and interfere with smooth flexing into the hull's shape

I am unfamiliar with those brands. Why not use thickened epoxy? You should be presealing or encapsulating all wood surfaces with epoxy anyway. Polyester is not as water resistant and is a weaker adhesive than epoxy. Therefore polyester is not recommended for wooden boats.

Bronze

Good luck and happy fishing

 

I whole-heartily concur with Blueknarr's post and advice.

And, I really like what you're building.

Carry-on

<EDIT> After watching your video I have two comments: Be aware of the heavy gasoline fumes spilling into and filling your fuel-tank hold. Hugely explosive situation there. Small in volume and likely nothing to cause ignition, but if it ever ignited... it wouldn't be pretty. Hard one to eliminate. A deck fill would make all the difference but that would mean a permanent tank and spoil the simplicity and flexibility of what you have now. I have no solution.
Now I've forgotten my second point... lol, I love getting old.

Second <EDIT> The fuel tank issue is at 26:10 FYI
My second point was NICE FISH, wow!
Also, can you clip the kill switch lanyard to an ankle-cuff, like on a surfboard?
All that slack blue line is ripe for catching-up, or snagging, as you go over at speed preventing pulling the kill-tab, dragging you to an untimely death my friend.

Third Edit... That blue line is attached to the bow.
What's your kill switch attached to?

 

Thank you very much for the advice Blueknarr.

 

Hi BlueBell
The blue line on the bow is for support as you are standing while riding. Gives the whole experience a watery rodeo kinda feel. Personally I'd attach a one-hand ski-rope handle to the end of the line and make ensure that it cannot reach the prop. I get what you are saying here.
He has an extended kill switch tied around the wrist at all times.

Thank you for the advice through.