Stringer issues

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by Jeff_40, Aug 12, 2018.

  1. Jeff_40
    Joined: Jul 2018
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    Location: Winnipeg

    Jeff_40 Junior Member

    I cut out my old stringers and managed to salvage a piece to trace they are almost identical shape side by side and spaced out exactly a foot and half and an inch from the big stringer that runs along the keel except on one side I have quite a large gap (almost an inch and a half). I do want a small gap so I can bed my stringers in peanut butter but I don’t want to waste 100$ on epoxy for that large gap. I'm not sure what’s going on here or what my next move should be any help would be awesome. I’m scratching my head on what to do. I can’t figure out why I have a large gap if everything’s equal. My boat is on the ez loader trailer sitting straight and my cap has no issues fitting back on. Everything is level except for the picture with my level

    87D329F5-11CD-4B48-8263-A25EF93DBFF7.jpeg 06FCE775-2776-453F-A6A5-0D4AD4E6F1D1.jpeg 70D54E52-4E1F-444F-A141-42AC856F8C8C.jpeg 93CA4656-AC82-4895-9E87-9DC9C81E735B.jpeg 37FDD434-767F-4D5B-9B88-28BDAC19433A.jpeg 8F4A668D-08DF-45C9-B298-22538717AC72.jpeg E231A092-33CD-46AB-A5DF-3AC7EC43F748.jpeg
     
  2. JamesG123
    Joined: Mar 2015
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    Location: Columbus, GA

    JamesG123 Senior Member

    The bottom's fiberglass might be uneven on the insides. You'll probably have to go and trim the bottom of the stringers, esp. the center one, to match its contour better.
     
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  3. Blueknarr
    Joined: Aug 2017
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    Location: Colorado

    Blueknarr Senior Member

    Welcome

    Wish you posted some time ago. I don't want to dwell on what you did or didn't do wrong. Focusing on how to proceed from here. This is a common subject on this forum, there are many existing threads which parallel. Browse and glean from them.

    Looks like transom was also replyed. Is it fully classed in? The grain is amazingly clear in pictures. I would finish its glass work before starting stringers.

    Great attention to detail on laying out new stringers. I am surprised they fit as close as they do. EZ-load trailers are notorious for not supporting evenly. With trailer on flat level ground, I would measure up to many points to determine if any bottom worpage exist. Measuring exterior of hull is more accurate than interior. Add support points as needed. Reckeck stringer alignment.

    Points to rember:
    -Hull may have deformed with previous rotten ply
    -your weight inside insufficient supported hull may deform
    -you might already be at best point

    Good luck
     
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  4. Jeff_40
    Joined: Jul 2018
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    Location: Winnipeg

    Jeff_40 Junior Member

    Thanks for the help
     
  5. Jeff_40
    Joined: Jul 2018
    Posts: 16
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    Location: Winnipeg

    Jeff_40 Junior Member

    4AAB3DD7-3A6B-421B-9A7F-FFF50D72A5CD.jpeg
    I’m kicking myself I didn’t post in here earlier Ive just been winging it up until now probably could of saved myself a lot of time and headache haha.
    I do have one sheet of cloth glued to it but no cloth over the fillets around the transom I’m not sure but I think 3 layers of cloth over the transom should do? Reading your pointers the stringers were in fact very very rotten
    Thanks for all the helpful tips and pointers I’m hoping I can get it all sorted out
     
  6. Blueknarr
    Joined: Aug 2017
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    Location: Colorado

    Blueknarr Senior Member

    No sense stewing over could haves. Your system for installing the stringers shows your commitment to excellence.

    Don't want to re-engineer the boat. So putting the same amount of the same stuff is usually most prudent coarse of action.

    How thick was the removed glass on transom?
    What weave or type of fabric?

    What fabric did you put on?
    Which resin are you using?

    Easier to lay fabric on transom without having to work it around stringers.

    Encapsulation of wooden elements prevents rotting organisms from infecting adjoining piece.
     
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  7. JamesG123
    Joined: Mar 2015
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    Location: Columbus, GA

    JamesG123 Senior Member

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  8. Jeff_40
    Joined: Jul 2018
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    Location: Winnipeg

    Jeff_40 Junior Member

    I think the stuff I removed was polyester resin with matting possibly a layer of cloth too. It must of been about 1/8” I’m using 6 oz fibreglass cloth(could possibly be 8 oz)and I’m using west system epoxy with fast hardner
     
  9. Blueknarr
    Joined: Aug 2017
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    Location: Colorado

    Blueknarr Senior Member

    It was almost certainly polyester with CSM and possibly roving. Did the old cloth have the same 4mm coarse weave as is visible on most of your remaining surfaces!
     
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  10. Jeff_40
    Joined: Jul 2018
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    Location: Winnipeg

    Jeff_40 Junior Member

    Yes it did, and ya there was roving it ran over the old stringers encapsulating them which I think was the only reason the boat didn’t snap in half haha
     
  11. SamSam
    Joined: Feb 2005
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    Location: Coastal Georgia

    SamSam Senior Member

    Are you sure the hull itself is level?
     
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  12. Blueknarr
    Joined: Aug 2017
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    Location: Colorado

    Blueknarr Senior Member

    There is an argument as to whether the strength of the stringers comes from the wood or from the glass covering. Boats with rotten stringers are way too common. That they haven't selfdestructed is the basis of the argument for hollow stringers.

    There appears to be only one layer of roving on old stringers. Was there more than one on transom?

    West is a quality epoxy. There are less expensive ones which will work adequately.
     
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  13. Jeff_40
    Joined: Jul 2018
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    Location: Winnipeg

    Jeff_40 Junior Member

    You mean like the top of the gunnels level?
     
  14. Glenn Tranchon
    Joined: Jul 2018
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    Location: Wilmington,NC

    Glenn Tranchon Junior Member

    I wouldnt use 6-8 oz cloth for any type of structural repair such as the stringers or the transom. Alternate csm mat with 1708 biaxial cloth 3-5 layer should be enough for tabbing in the stringers.
     
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  15. SamSam
    Joined: Feb 2005
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    Location: Coastal Georgia

    SamSam Senior Member

    To get it level from side to side I would check it on the outside bottom corners of the transom, where the sides and bottom meets.
    That doesn't level it lengthwise but that usually isn't needed.
    Once the back end is supported level, you can check for twist by standing back far enough from the side so you can sight across the two gunnels. Any twist will be evident if the gunnels don't line up.
     
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