CNC Plans not Included

I realize now why slats are impractical, they make perfect weed catchers.

Okay back to simple, no rotation, two asymmetrical boards one on each side. Need a tripod or mini nacelle for the middle stay to anchor to. The pivot blocks I will shoot at the same time as everything else. Moving on to rudders.

 

If a plane can go around the world on solar and batteries flying day and night ... Awesome!!!!!

 

Didn't like my drives hanging down like that. Thanks to 3D I was able to see that I can scallop a V out of the hull under the steps. So I think I will do that in the mold stage. On the outer hull I will fill it to be a V so the motor is steadied. The power cord will run through the pivot into the hull, it's pretty far above the water line so I don't see any problem with that. When you want to lower, it's at the right angle to just let out on the line but it will need a downline, probably looped to the upline, to hold it when running.

That frees up that shelf area for either a pantry or more batteries. I'm figuring maximum one ton of batteries but they can be made in different configurations, so I am hoping they will go under the interior deck. That ought to keep my balance pretty nice as well.


Edit- Here is a better pic with a cutout though it would be V'd not blocked like here. The cutout provides bracing for the pod extension, this is much stronger! I'm excited because it's all pretty easy to build into the mold so makes my job even easier and frees up space. The only potential issue which is easy to fix, that I see, is when up there is a flat spot that could cause wave slap... So on the leading edge I will build a little ridge to deflect water.

 

I presume you have decided on electric power because there will be major problems with IC engines 2 stroke or 4 stroke.

 

Yes that is a flange motor, all self contained, no fuel no whining noise, however it will rarely be used.

The battery pack is going to cost a small fortune but it looks like I can get over 100kw for around a ton.

I'm going to use Gropers weight sample spreadsheet to help estimate mine and then use Carbon Fiber wherever it makes sense, daggers, mast, drives, bulkheads etc.

I know all electric sounds crazy but that is the next wave and people are eager to ride it.

News Break another friend suggested a tv mini series. 12 episodes, and he can make it happen ... that is what I call an Angle!

I've been holding off on contacting sponsors but there are a ton of them so call me crazy but Iwill follow the money and more importantly feel good that I am involved in this historic push.

My project will likely have a bigger budget than My own pockets will bear.

My nephew already has been offered 2 prominent env shows to produce and he is negotiating with Boldure University to get credits for his work. TheUniversity wants him to produce a couple of env shows for them!

Ride the wave I say!!!

 

this is pretty interesting, no keel, no daggers, just anti-vortex panels. Also discussed winglets or endplates. I have them on my design, it prevents vortices at the tip and keeps the lift over the entire length of board. Not practical on a board embedded in a cassette.

PELICANpage http://www.ikarus342000.com/PELICANpage.htm

 

WhalePower Tubercles

Idea comes from the flippers of a whale and I quote
In wind tunnel and water tunnel studies, tubercle blades easily overcome fluid dynamic “limitations” that were once considered unavoidable laws by engineers, technicians and scientists.

The leading edge bumps cause vortexes which keep flow attached WITHOUT DRAG. ... Sent them a letter. Currently the tech has been licensed for computer fans, giant industrial fans and wind generator blades. I can see this working for rudders, daggers and masts even!

 

Did you post a link?

 

oops, here it is Envira-North Fans https://whalepowercorp.wordpress.com/portfolio/envira-north-fans/
you will have to dig around for the benefits, something like greater angle of attack with quited a reduction in drag as compared to a smooth surface.

 

Thanks for the latest link. I'd read about the bumps increasing the angle of attack up to stalling but not a decrease in drag.

 

cool stuff! -

• We compare lift and drag forces for a wing with leading edge tubercles versus the same wing without tubercles at a 10 ̊ angle of attack. We find a 4.8% increase in lift, a 10.9% reduction in induced drag, and a 17.6% increase in lift to drag ratio.

 

umm, well yes, if you replace a smooth foil that is just stalling (factors are angle of attack, Reynolds number, profile, surface finish) with a bump foil, you will see a significant reduction in drag and improvement in lift as it is no longer stalling. Rudders are the most suitable application as they are required to have minimal stalling as stalling = loss of boat control. Unfortunately the tubercles will be weed and bag magnets. It seems that when operating at low angles of attack the tubercles provide no reduction in drag.
Possible that tapered foils may benefit as well. The taper is likely to suffer tip stall and the tubercles might delay the stall. might. The humpback has tubercles right to very end of the flipper so likely to be useful.

 

For sure a lot of testing must be done but If a smooth foil is stalling at 10 degrees that is a problem. These foils don't stall even to 30 degrees which means I am too curious not to test them.

When I am not selling boats I could be selling daggerboards and rudders lol

The slats would have been like mowing the lawn but these are rounded and smooth, I don't think there would be any difference from a smooth foil. Once again needs to be tested.

 

depends on the application. For fan blades 10 degrees could be common design point as they are much thinner than foils used in water.

 

Decided to go with sort of a standard rudder install. Can't figure out how I would connect this unless I use hydraulic. I'm not giving up ... thinking it would be possible to use direct transmission if the linkage could be fused to allow the steering arm to pivot down when rudder kicks up.

Also went back to a single symmetrical daggerboard.

My raw water intakes will through-hull above the waterline. Kind of like the drives, a scallop in the hull will allow the hose extension to be run below the waterline. I like this, nothing in the water to foul or holes below waterline that could sink the boat.

Had a good idea for some lightning protection. Thinking that some big fat cables fastened to the bottom of the mast could be dropped into the water to give lighting a good path to ground ... will make me feel better anyway!!

Check out Graingers 30 meter )) It's not on his site, I found it browsing