1964 18hp Evinrude,another question

I have got the engine running,but it won't rev fully.
Is it a safety feature until the engine is put into gear?
The brass stop plate on the underside of the armature stops at the gear lever and spring when it is out of gear.
When I fired up the engine there was no water ejecting from the peehole,so I had to stop the engine before it got too hot,so I didn't get chance to try putting it in gear.
The engine hasn't been started for quite a while,so obviously it needs a new impeller at the least,maybe even a new stat and water pump.
I'm on a learning curve with this engine,so any advice will be gratefully received.
"V"

 

Thats correct. The throttle is limited in neutral.

 

I think it's limited in reverse too.

 

Thanks Brendan,I'm getting there thanks to you guys on here.
It was nice to hear the motor fire up for the first time since I bought it 3 yrs ago.

 

Thanks PAR,I'll check that out.
I couldn't run it for long with no cooling,so although it got warm I had to turn it off before it had time to "clear it's throat" if you know what I mean.
It was firing evenly,but I couldn't fine tune it because I had to stop it.
The help I have had off here has been great,this is a great site.

 

Don't be tempted to overide the tiller control and rev the engine. The limiter is there to prevent damage to the engine when it is not under load.

 

Ok Brendan,I'll bear that in mind,thanks.

I had a look on "Leroy's Ramblings"He says that when these engines are run in a tub they need to be in gear so the prop assists the water intake or they will overheat.
I was getting the engine warm before I put it under load by putting it into gear.Looks like I should have put it in gear straight off,once it had started.
I removed the stat earlier,and found it jammed open,it is supposed to open at 145%.The water passages were clean,and there was evidence that water had got partway through past the stat.but not far enough to get to the peephole.
It says not to run the engine without the stat.because it needs to reach a temperature hot enough to burn the 2 stoke oil.Leaving the jammed open stat. in is probably slowing the warming up process with it acting as a bypass
and will probably cause the plugs to oil up.So,New stat.required I think.

 

How/where do you source spare parts? I saw a 30/40 year old Evinrude the other day but shyed away on the parts issue.

 

If you are in Singapore I'm not sure,Australia probably.
I'm from the UK.
chastheboat in Putney in London has a good stock.
The parts are available everywhere,these outboards are popular in America,have a look on Utube.
If you get one that has been standing a while you will probably have to overhaul it,but the parts are available.If it's running well even better.
There are lower leg extensions readily available if you need to match it to your transom.
If I had a choice I would buy the Parts from the USA,but the postage and customs charges quite often double the price of the item.
Evinrude had a factory outlet in Hong Kong,I have a 3.3 that was made there.
If you put "Leroys Ramblings" up on your PC,he covers them very well.
On a 14ft boat with a planning hull,you can expect about 22mph.

 

if the engine overheats in a tub without being in fwd there is some other problem
that engine doesnt have a pee hole unless someone added one but you need to be careful as to where they add it as it might cause the thermo never to open at idle if its before the thermo in the water flow.
I dont think the factory ever had a suggested location for that model.

 

From what I can gather,they call it "The blubber hole"on the earlier models,it also assists in cooling the exhaust.
I have come to the conclusion that the impeller has partially disintegrated.
I started to take the gearbox/bottom leg off,the 4 small bolts came out ok,
but the head sheared off the large one,It's the usual aluminium to steel problem.Luckily,the bolts pass thro' the upper casing unthreaded,and screw into the lower casing.I have soaked it in plusgas a couple of times,and I think the bottom casing will slide off when I release the driveshaft coupling nut inside the panel on the upper leg.Once I have the lower casing off,there should be enough thread to get the molegrips on it.
I intend to apply a little heat to the aluminium casing to expand it before I attempt to unscrew it.
With a bit of luck it will come out and save me the trouble of drilling it out and re-tapping it.
Thanks for your input PB.

 

drive shaft comes out with the lower unit hopefully but will pull out of the gearbox after you take the water pump off if you want to.
but you need to disconnect the shift shaft from behind the cover with 2 screws on the exhaust housing.
You need to take one screw out of the brass adapter that you will see
http://epc.brp.com/Index.aspx?lang=E&s1=5f4c54da-013f-44e9-ae45-6c2e98e3dc1d

 

I see now,the drive shaft isn't fixed at the motor end.
When I referred to the coupling under the panel in the leg,it was the gear coupling,my mistake.It's nice to know beforehand,thanks.