Soft Rigging Solutions

the eyes have it

Hi all, interesting thread and very pertinent to my current project. I am converting my Buc24 to a rotating rig off a F24. I plan on using ¼” Amsteel for side and forestays. I had planned on using sailors thimbles for terminating eye connections, with the assumption they are less prone to compression than standard thimbles. Does anyone have any experience with these thimbles?

Alternatively, I gleaned from the CYR link above (post 13) that “CYR has been using thimbles for adjusting fixed assemblies and low travel/high load purchases for years. Initially it was custom machined and anodized rings, and now Antal and Tylaska are making these in volume for great prices”. Has anyone found a price list for the ferrels?

Finally, I am gob smacked how easy it is to splice single braided line. I would encourage anyone who has been sitting on the fence to jump in and give it a try. For DIY types, there is a whole new world to explore. Attached are splicing instructions for Samson line.

Best, Carl

 

Be careful....Normally you use the Brummel splice.

http://www.neropes.com/SPL_12Strand_EyeSpliceBrummel.aspx

 

Wow, too bad this subject thread fell in disuse, looks as thought there was some very interesting material being presented.

What happen to that link about the GC32,....can it be found some where else??

 

Have you got some photos of any of the 'wedge & lever' rigging of old?

I believe what you are speaking of is something I have in mind to 'anchor' some of my upper diamond stays, and possibly some backstays to the mast

 

I like these,...minimal holes in the mast tube.

 

Brian,
Have a look through here https://vikinglongship.wordpress.com/page/3/ & click & zoom some of the pics, nature of operation will be apparent.The shroud or stay/ whatever leads through the eye of the needle & a couple of turns taken around- these turns resist splitting of the timber needle also as they grip around it, the length adjusted until point of needle is roughly level with the simple "loop" chainplate- here the taper/wedge of the needle is important as pushed in it takes up some slack, then the needle is pushed up & tensions through lever action and simply held by one hand around needle & shroud then some light line simply ties the needle to shroud. These were just made of 90 x90mm post stock, if wider material used I think it may be possible to overcenter a little more or even shape with a slight twist/helix to hook around the back of shroud.
I've seen some variations that look kind of "male" in design also but we chose these kind for simplicity.
Jeff

 

These are a few photos I had stored on my computer

 

Those staggered cheeks are quite unusual.

 

I've been searching for an Antal ring mounting system for a through the hull rope steering set on a vintage Feathercraft aluminum boat. It seems the material used is only available in a ring shape. The motor is set back about 7 inches making it difficult to rig using the traditional rope steering pulley systems. I'd like to keep the size of any holds cut in the transom to a minimum. I'm an arborist by trade and ropes and rigging are something I do almost every work day. Thanks for any help.

 

I epoxied an antal ring (OK it was a Harken) in place in a carbon fibre bowsprit. Would that work for what you want?

 

Thanks Nick. Epoxy might be a good idea. I was thinking of using two mounting plates that would slide together capturing the ring and was wondering if such a fixture was available made entirely of Antal ring material. I was thinking of the possibility of rotating the ring on occasion should it show any wear. It's a pretty low load application but utterly critical. I was also hoping to not have to cut a hole in the transom the whole outer diameter of the ring.

Great thread BTW!

 

I am no expert but it looks to me like it would work. When I epoxied in the ring I waxed it heavily in the hope that it also will rotate to spread the wear. With your system it will be easier to replace the ring. Also note that you can make the hole so that it is more like the smallest OD of the ring and you then only have to slide in the largest OD through a slot.

Nick

 

I just did a heap of splicing with Dynex dux . 7mm side stays and forstay and water stays , 6 mm prodder stays .

Very easy to work with , once you get the hang of it a splice will take about 5 mins . The saving on swaging and adjusters alone nearly paid for the rope and thimbles , used ronstan solid sailmakers thimbles.

 

Waterstay

 

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