Buccaneer 24 Builders Forum

B & S

My 33's bulkheads were only 1/4" ply, with a paste fillet and glass tape, and the skin did not have much print through, but it does have "waves" where the bulkheads are. I don't think the extra layer of foam is over kill, just good practice. I guess the next 40 years will tell
B

 

What is the concensus on lessening the dihedral to flatten the ride? Has this already been discussed? Bad idea or good?

 

The dihedral as designed is perfect. It allows the amas to just clear the water as the boat comes nose into wind whilst tacking, enabling the very fast tack which is the hallmark of the B24.

If you want to "Flatten the ride" get a Piver or Horstman.

 

I understand. I need to stop thinking about things and just build it the way it's designed.

 

Excited! I just ordered the plywood for the exterior. I should have all the frames done by the time it gets shipped to me. Wish me luck when the wife sees the credit card statement!

 

Plans arrived today. They look pretty straight-forward and quite simple(a good thing). Hopefully I can get started with my build soon. Freddy, put ups some pics, I would like to see how things are going for you.
Have a great day
Dan

 

In post way back Old Sailor mentioned a different dagger board design. Using a board set vertical in the case with a symmetrical Naca 0008 section instead of angled back.That is if I understood the post correctly. Has anybody tried this mod or does anybody know what the advantage would be by doing so? I haven't started building yet, just studying the plans and taking notes. I like to have things thought out ahead of time.
Thanks
Dan

 

YES. This Mod was proven on my B24 circa 1971.
1. It's easier to build.
2. It's drier.
3. It improves the windward ability.
4. It enables a nice seat.

TIP:- If you do it, don't forget the hard F/Glass seals top and bottom,
with closely formed apertures for the parallel sided board to pass through.

 

Patrick, did you shape the entire board to the Naca profile, or just the section that would be in the water when the board was down? Also, how much clearance did you build between the board and case sides?
Thanks
Dan

 

Better board

YES! I built a similar 008 section board for my 24, and it really works well. Most of the 24 is well designed, but the foils suck. Make them modern, we have learned a few things in 40+ years
Leave the dihedral as is!!
Fred- Man up! Get a card your wife does not see or pay It will help you stay married.
B

 

Since both the board and case insides are coated with glass/epoxy they should not swell with water absorption. The fit should be a sliding fit. Not so tight it jams, nor so loose it rattles. If too loose, build up the thickness with coats of epoxy. Do paint the whole board and the insides of the box with a good copper anti-fouling paint.
It is easier to foil the board from top to bottom. The glass/epoxy hard seals top and bottom will prevent the board from "turning" in the box.

 

Thanks for the info. I have been going back thru the threads gathering info and adding them to my construction notes. Thanks to you and others I have a clear picture of what to do now.
Thanks
Dan

 

Meranti

I found a local supplier in New Orleans that keeps a good supply Aquatek Meranti ply on hand. According to my research, the 6mm 5 ply meranti weights about 4lbs more per sheet than Okoume of the same thickness. Besides the weight difference is there anything else negative about Meranti? Is there anything positive about using meranti? The local meranti in 6mm I can get for $57 per sheet so I will have no shipping charges. I can get okoume but it is about a 5 hour drive away. Also in the plans, Lock specified that pine is okay for the timber, is there another type of timber that can be used to offset the weight gain from Meranti? I have local access to many timber types such as cedar, cypress, spruce, etc, and they are all clear types.
Thanks
Dan

 

Dan
For the main hull rebuild we are using gaboon and cedar and making the sheet and cedar stock choice while purchasing sorting best sheets and cedar stock for our needs.
Baboon 4mm quoted at 5.9/9.2kg avg. Meranti 6.4 kg average hope this helps.
Craig and the Ezifold team

 

Meranti is great wood, much more rot resistant than okume, equivalent in weight and strength to douglas fir. It is now has regulated harvesting levels.....

Hydrotek is all Meranti to the higher marine standard bs 8xxx.its been awhile but I seem to recall the Aquatek has grain running in a more 50/50 orientation in the panel, if it is bs6xxx (been a while) inner ply substitutions are allowed and could be laun
etc....

In either case the real hydrotek/aquatek panels will be stamped with those names and the mill logo. Here in the PNW some yards try to pass off other products as Hydrotek, these won't be stamped with anything other than the bs rating for the most .part. If they tell you it is Aquatek from "the other mill' walk away. Much of the substitutions are from less regulated Asian mills. For example om some bs6550 (think that's the number) I've seen inner laminations that were not only luan but out of beetle riddled trees- all those extra little holes mean more heavy glue increasing panel weight. For any panel these days I recommend sending a sample through a thickness planer so you can see, layer by layer, what you are really buying, be it meranti, fir, okume, gaboon etc...regardless who the supplier is research your material carefully, with fewer trees mills are getting less scrupulous and some yards don't want to look too closely at what they have found to sell.