Skiff

I did not need the poly. I smoothed the epoxy into the tape with the gloves I was wearing as I applied it. No curled edges and I got good saturation. I pressed any bubbles out with my gloved finger as I went along. The framework on the right was the jig base.

 

Eh Hoyte, I hope you take those screws out before Par gets here

Looks good ! Now finish the darn thing, I'm getting impatient

 

Screws? There is not a single screw in that boat - yet.

 

Look like it's coming along fine. I use visqueen (plastic sheeting) and mylar sheets to help smooth things out or as a backer from a clamp, nailer or anything else I don't want goo's up. Plastic packaging tape is usually the first thing I grab, often to temporary protect tools, during an epoxy run.

 

Thanks, PAR. I have even used plastic shopping bags as a non-stick surface. I made some wooden light switch covers a few years back and stretched shopping bags across the board on which the wood parts were assembled and glued.

 

Yesterday I disassembled the jig base and will re-use the wood as structures such as seat frames, gunwales and etc.

 

Maybe not single, but it looks like the heads of many of these in there, or is that something else . .

? ?
- click pics to enlarge​

Fanie, why the screws need to be removed . .

Well done Hoyt, nice job, good looking boat

 

Thanks, Angel. Those are s.s. 2.54cm annular threaded nails and I don't mind the crevice corrosion because the epoxy will do the real work..

 

I haven't been paying much attention to this thread, but the screws above are particle board screws. They're not very strong, because of the skinny shank, but they do hold well in softwoods, MDF, etc., because of the coarse thread. I've all but stopped using nails, even the ring shanks which are nearly as good as a regular wood screw. I can get sheet metal s.s. screws for the same money as ring shank, so I don't bother with the nails anymore, besides, I can back out a screw, not so much with a nail, especially a ring shank.

 

The flotation chambers at the stern will hold 3.5 cubic feet of 2 part foam that will displace 220 lbs., twice the weight of the outboard motor. More foam will fill some areas amidships and at the bow, amount tbd.

 

If you have closed chambers then you do not need foam. Foam only adds weight and provides little cells for mold and other ugly creatures to grow. If you have closed chambers you will need to provide removable ventilation ports of course. The ports do not weigh as much as foam, and the ports
also provide hiding places for your stash of.....whatever.

 

I have to think about that. I need to review the USCG requirements for flotation. The storage would be nice to have.

 

If I did have a vent port it would go through the 1.5 inch thick transom, which I am loathe to weaken. Maybe there is a suitable deck-mounted cap with an o-ring seal.

 

Messabout is correct and I have to admit I don't use foam unless I have to, which means the boat is a production product. Simply put, you don't HAVE to use foam on a home built according to the USCG. Chambers can serve as floatation just as well, plus you can put a deck plate in the box for storage. You also have to remember to remove these deck plates so they can ventilate, but this is a minor consideration. I usually put a lanyard on them so they stay where they need to be and don't get lost. Couldn't these deck plate go in the top of the aft boxes, rather than through either of the transoms?

 

I can put them in the top. If I can find ones that are flush mount I would prefer those.