Buccaneer 24 Builders Forum

Hi everyone from south of france !!

i surfed on your interesting forum and saw somewhere that study plans for the 24 bucanner tri are available by post ? or by mail?

thanks for details about that ?

 

Hi there
You will find a sheet from the plans at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Ezifold-Yachts/212821925457790?ref=page_internal&sk=photos_stream

Os7 has also made study information available on This forum.

Should you require further information and or an original plan set or the upgraded plans please feel free to contact us via here or our website or face book page.
Regards
The Ezifold Team

 

Yeah I've been pouring over the page, really appreciate all the angles and shots, even in the nooks and crannies!

Question in regards to some comments on float extension amd such. Is a viable to keep length but stretch bulge a station further forward for so improvement? Maybe that and just a 1 foot forward bump would allow one to stay within same amount of ply adding less weight and cost? Sorry can't call out station lines I'm thinking of as I have no plans in front of me. Yet! Haha I conjured up the bottom side as it is also the smallest side of floats meaning less work and material addition. Or would this just throw off rocker? Apologies if it's a dumb question. But you know what they say about the only dumb questions.


Barry

 

The B24 I sailed had plenty of float buoyancy - so what I'm saying is keep the slim float beam cross section as Crowther designed them, don't think of making them fatter. And if you're worrying about cartwheeling the boat due from lack of diagonal stability ... quit worrying because it won't happen.
On the B24 one time, during a 2 handed Hauraki Gulf race, one crew let fly the spinnaker guy by mistake while we were close reaching, then it stopped running because of cleated guy downhaul - so with the kite out to leeward and still powerfully drawing and pulling us over at an unnerving angle (happened very quickly) I thought this will be a real test while winching guy back and helming the boat up with one foot. But float design saved us. This was before Miranda had angled foils placed in the floats. And if you are still not convinced about float buoyancy safety, angled foils in floats are your better answer.

 

I gotcha, although wasn't thinking fatter but taller or thicker just via bottom profile. Again no clue on station numbers but just to give numbers if stem was 1 and going larger to say 5(thickest part) just make 4 tad larger creating more volume forward. If that makes sense? And not to worried about a pronk, seems forgiving and if not, well I'm in a bay not open ocean! Just thinking more of simplifying the mods sail better without rewriting the plans on it.

Barry

 

Marmoset.
There are many ways to "Guild the Lily", and not all of them are
necessarily right.

Samnz (now samin), achieved his dragon killing feats with "the Green Death Trap" by fitting light weight fixed cross arms, a taller mast and and a grossly
oversize rig.
The stock hull shapes took it just fine. He won lots of races with no capsizes or pitch poles. There were hairy moments, but no disasters.

My dear late friend Karl Uthoff likewise stuck a 38ft mast on his B24 with a huge sail area. It was great. He was a keen racer and plastered the opposition.

My own B24 was bog stock, with the designed rig. My only mod was a vertical dagger to improve windward performance, and it won races.
Any radical changes lead the original design away from the designers stated requirements, which were for a small, simple, pocket CRUISER, which for convenience and low cost, could be made with three sheets of plywood, butted end to end.

OTB is now supplying the stock plans for those who want them, but is also massively tweaking the design to achieve something like "Toy", for those who want a more "Modern", and very fast design.
It will be great---But it will no longer be a B24.

 

Couldn't agree more about a guilded Lilly! Don't get me wrong, to each his own, but I really do like it as it sits! Kinda why I was throwing out ideas to changing nothing really yet maybe have improvement. But in the end,as planned, its simple cost effective enough boat it can always be tweaked later. In the mean time there's a work area to be prepped to keep me busy. Going to to an extension on my cnc as well, now I have an excuse! Bed now is 40"x60" don't think that's gonna cut it on some stuff, all puns intended. The centerboard isn't am issue either way, many times before I've just generated files on compufoil and just pinned down a fence to slide the part through. Course only works with a constant foil. I've done 9 foot wing panels this way so even a 7 foot-ish centerboard is no sweat.

Barry

 

http://www.sailboatlistings.com/view/33297

Kinda like a big buccaneer, interesting take on the little raised deck in front of cabin.


Barry

 

At first I thought it was a Cross. It looks well maintained for a '69

 

Yeah not bad at all, not a fan of the 69 yellow! But that's like getting free mast and rigging!


Barry

 

outboard motor attachment

Hi everyone. I finally got out in my Buc again on Tuesday and had an awesome afternoon sailing and motoring around Cape Upstart in North Queensland. Very beautiful part of the world. Anyway i am looking for a better way of attaching my outboard to the boat. Currently it is attached on an auxiliary motor bracket( the ones that swing up and down ) but the problem is that it is nigh on impossible to motor into waves(its open ocean here so waves are inevitable ). Because the boat pitches in the waves the motor is constantly coming out of the water and hence speed drops and you basically don't go forward. I'm wondering if anyone has a well for the motor or some other way of attaching thea aqua , motor. I have attached some pics to showa how it currently sits. Motor is a long leg mercury 8hp.1

 

I'd go grab it for that alone Cept I need trailerable! Sf bay is 1 year wait and 300 a month for slip.


Barry

 

So no one has any thoughts on using veil/tissue rather than 3 coats resin ? (post 1805) p121

 

Centerboard

I've just started my build, thanks to os7s wonderful plan package. Do folks think it worthwhile to go with the pivoting cb? I don't want to get in trouble with my build. I'm a first time boat builder, but a lifetime cabinet maker. Also I'm having trouble finding material for my water stays. Has anyone discussed using anchor points and wire rigging like a person would use with standing rigging?

 

There are many who say the glass cloth will provide no (effective) structural benefit.
Veil/ tissue will have significantly less no matter what the material. I think someone is trying to sell you a miniscule improvement - the kevlar.

If you use one coat of epoxy, then veil, you still have the second coat of epoxy to stick down the veil.
So now you have 2 coats of epoxy +veil instead of 3 coats of epoxy. What did you save? Try it, I think you will find you need the 3rd coat of epoxy just to smooth out the veil, depending upon how "nice" you want the finish. Or you will add a surfacing/ sanding coat - which you may do anyway.

Personally when trying to avoid glass 30 years ago on a plywood Tornado catamaran I found that I was always repairing the coating since it had little abrasion resistance. I finally stripped the hull again and put the glass back.

On a bigger boat I believe you will have a hard time recognizing all the little bumps and scrapes - potentially leading to a lost coating locally. That was the only source of rot on my old Tornado - a improperly fixed scrape.

IMO