Suzuki outboard motor DF6 transport after boating

I finished my boat building of a 14 ft flat bottom skiff. I installed extra thick 1" transom to support an outboard motor. I purchased Susuki DF6 motor 6HP. The weight of the motor is 55 lb.

Now it is time to trailer it to lake and test run. I read the user manual of the Susuki DF6. It mentions that when transport on trailer, the motor will be on tilt position. But must use a bracket to support it.

My question is: may I remove the Suzuki DF6 lay it side way in trunk as the manual suggested to transport? If the DF6 has motor oil inside, will it leak out or will it damage the engine or flood the carburetor? If the internal gas tank is half full, will the gas leak by lay it side way? The manual did not say that "transport" is with the motor oil (and/or gasoline) filled or motor oil (and/or gasoline) removed.

My idea came from reading the forum that small outboard motor is in high demand for thief. remove it from boat and lay in trunk might be the best solution.

Anyone has experience with Suzuki DF6?

 

If you lay it down on the side Suzuki suggests, it will not leak. Yep, little outboards are commonly swollen. You can use a lock, to prevent theft, unless they brought a good bolt cutter with them. I've seen some chained to the transom. You can't beat someone bent on having it, but a good pad lock will deter 98% of them. It's so small, carrying it in the trunk is a good idea.

 

Thank you.

You are always provide prompt answer. Thank you very much. I will do take the motor and put it in trunk.

 

make sure you get a padlock with a hardened hasp, not a cheap chinese made bit of junk - makes the process of theft a lot slower.

 

locally the rent a boat guys use anti theft nuts and bolts to bolt portable engines on the transom.

Not many theives have the tools to loosen anti theft fasteners.

 

Lock on transom a risk to break the transom?

I also read from other forum members about the transom thickness. I decide to install 1" transom. Still not sure it is strong enough to hang the motor on the transom. Someone said that transom might break apart with heavy load on tow upon the trailer because the road condition might demand a lot on the transom with 55 lb motor hanging on it tilt. Any experience or suggestion on thickness of transom?

 

A battery powered angle grinder cuts through any lock or bolt in seconds - but at least it causes noise and light.

Removing the engine cover might make it a bit less attractive. Or an ugly paint job.

Why do they recommend transporting it in the tilted position? Vertical would cause less stress.

 

Trailering is always hard on outboard transoms. common trailers have stiff springs and are aggressive to small lightweight boats like yours. Not much you can do other than be aware and strip off the outboard if you will be doing some rough road trailering.

Transom thickness is only one detail. How the transom transfer load Into the boat is also important. One inch is good thickness for a small motor...make sure the load is effectifly spread thru robust structures,

 

About the tilt position

The owner's manual suggest to trailer the motor tilt because the propeller is about 1' 2" below the bottom. Propeller itself is 6" with 4" clearance from the bottom of the boat and 4" below the propeller. The trailer is about 1' from the ground. If transport up right, the lower portion of the propeller will touch the ground. If driving upward from alley to my drive way. the motor will be pushed up off the transom.

If transport tilt, the lower portion of the propeller will be 3 to 6" above the bottom of the boat. If trailer went through a ditch, the bottom of the boat will touch the ground first. This will push the motor higher to avoid touch the ground.

 

transom installation

According to the boat design, the transom is backed up by the rear seat, transfer the pushing from the motor to the rear frame. I install additional two layers of fiberglass on both side of transom. Here is how I did:

1. from the original boat design, I used fiberglass tape inside of the seam of transom to hull.
2. I used fiberglass tape out of the seam of transom to hull.
3. I installed the back seat, which is attached the transom to the hull and the rear frame.
4. I used additional 1/4" plywood to cover the whole transom inside above the seat.
5. I used fiberglass tape from the seat to the additional transom plywood inside.
6. I used fiberglass cloth to cover the whole boat, includes the transom to the hull from outside.
7. I added another full size 3/8" plywood to cover the whole transom outside of the boat
8. I used fiberglass cloth to cover the seam of the additional outside transom.
9. I install two piece of 3/8" triangle plywood on two corners of the transom to the side of boat. The triangle has 8" attached to transom and 8" attached to side of boat.
10. I covered the triangle plywood with fiberglass cloth from outside to cover the triangle to the side of hull and transom.
11. I used fiberglass tape inside the triangle to hold it to the side of the boat and transom.
12. All seams and joints were backed up with saw dust and epoxy resin mix under the fiberglass tape.

Would it provide enough resistance from the pushing of the motor?

 

Rubber pads (in the tilt lock area) or elastic lines (holding the motor in the tilted position) will reduce shock loads somewhat.

 

A 1" transom is a bit over kill on this motor, but will not hurt anything. A transom saver rod is always a good idea on any boat. I make my own, but there are versions you can find at retail (Wal-Mart).

Stop worrying, you'll be fine, just lock 'er down or toss it in the trunk. These are called "portable" for a reason, so take advantage of this.

 

Thickness of transom

Thank you. To know that 1" is over kill do give me a peace of heart.
I am thinking about my next boat. This first boat give me a lot of experience. This will help me to build next boat.