Cosmetic strakes on welded aluminum hull?

Sam you are correct. That anchor thingy looks dangerous. It is definitely a convenience but a risky one. The weight of the frame and flukes are hung out in cantilever fashion and subjected to dynamic loading. The housing had better be more robust than it looks.

There! We have picked on the OPs boat. Other than that, no problem.

 

"Whether they are totally efficient or not is secondary in a boat made for the masses, where any fool is expected to be the driver"

Then this is definitely the correct boat for me

The prior owner suggested looking into a different anchor. He may have anticipated your concerns. I think he used the boat mainly on a small lake (4 miles long and about 1/2 mile wide) on which he lived. Although he did take it down some of the Mississippi once.

 

So tell us what you know !!

There never seems to be any rhyme or reason for the way some strakes are done on most boats, so if there is a hard and fast rule and ways of making them its sure not obvious to the any one .

Designers are a touch strange breed of miss fits ! when they are asked a simple question they always immediately run for cover and become all offensive and ask "what do you want to know that for" ?? are you questioning my ability ?? well in this case Yes I am !! spill the beans and tell us what you know !!:?:

 

Looking at the advertisement, they twice mention their "stabilized vee" hull. I'm wondering if that isn't what the bottom strakes are for, to give support at speed and keep the hull from 'rocking', especially if people are moving around.

As handy as the anchor system looks, I know for me it would be a problem magnet, probably starting in the driveway where I would inadvertently walk into it with my face or something. I don't see one on the boat in the ad, but I can just make out where it says standard equipment includes a 'mechanical mooring system', so maybe that thing is standard equipment. It depends on locale, but around here there are no beaches or uncluttered areas to pull the boat into so you have to mash into brush or steep banks usually if you want to go ashore, so it looks like it would not work very well.

 

My guess would be that the "stabilization" claim comes from what PAR referred to earlier about the "arc" in the bottom aft, which takes a big chunk of bouyancy out of the area near the centre-line, than would be the case if the deadrise was the same as at the chine, i.e. a straight section. This is a proven way of getting a boat that sits nice at rest, yet still rides well at sensible operating speeds (i.e., sticking to speeds that doesn't have the thing leaping clear of the water). The best compromise shape imo, and rides better than alloy boats with constant moderate vee section, by far. But it may require an external keel to keep it running straight down-sea.

 

It's difficult to tell what this hull is from the photos, but it appears to be a warped bottom. I does seem to be an attempt to flatten the deadrise near the centerline, while having sufficient deadrise towards the chines to take on some chop.

As far a strakes information, in general, well this is fairly easy to come by and stated above and in other threads, for Tunnels inquiries or baiting sessions about them. As far as details and formulas, nothing is going to be helpful without specifics for the craft they'll be placed on. In other words, they're application specific Tunnels, so each approach will address various aspects of the design criteria, but what one boat needs or employs, may not be the same as another. It's a bit like asking how long to make an aircraft's wing. Without specific parameters to guide the requirement focus, it's just a imposable to answer question.