PVC Exhaust

I wasn't hinting at an evening cruise.
The trial suggested by PAR (Let him start it up, pull the engine up to temperature and shut it off after reving it up several times. This should get that turbo hot enough to cook the pipe off pretty quickly, saving him some embarrassment a few miles out, when he realizes he's taking on water and exhaust gases.) can be done at the dock or on the mooring.

Even if you're not interested at this I'd still like to have a look.
I'm not interested in any betting.

 

Dock E 45 power cat. While im really not interested in what PAR thinks or educate him or anyone else that has treated me so rudely that knows nothing and more importantly of of what I do I will see if I can oblige. I shall start one engine of your choice and run it as long as you want. Ha this is ridiculous and hilarious.

Should be a good laugh. I cant wait to bring the lads to this , Ive been using the boat 10 years. Its just something I don't even think about.

 

Cool. I'm always interested to learn something new, and I'm a big fan of powercats.
I'll arrive at Langkawi Nov 25 at 15:10 and then I need to check in and rent me some wheels. I could come over later that evening if that's ok with you. Anyway I'll get back in touch with you somewhere nearer to the 25th.

 

Glad you got some wheels cos I dont take pillion passengers when you take me for a beer at ABC

 

Hi Frosty,
Well it's interesting to learn that what we're looking in your photo is not a proposed system, but one that was constructed and tested some years ago. It seems then that you've already answered all the questions one might have concerning it's viability, and this was just an exercise.

Given that I'm not quite sure how to answer the question you posed above. Having never wrapped PVC in glass and then later removed it I'm going to suggest two methods I "think" will work. If I wanted to accomplish this task I would first select small sections like elbows, and short runs of pipe that I wanted to copy.

In the first method I would apply PVA to the piece and then apply several layers of matte to hold the desired shape. You could do this in half sections or in full wraps. The half sections would be removed and trimmed to shape, then secured and glassed together to form the whole. The full sections would have to cut in two, separated from the pipe, and then glassed together into a whole unit.

My second choice would be to apply the PVA as before, then glass the piece into it's final form applying all of the required glass layers I want in my finished product. Then use acetone to soften and melt the PVC inside to the point where it could be removed.

When I built water cooled exhaust systems on a regular basis we used prefabricated glass exhaust tube to form all the different shapes we needed. To construct elbows and odd bent sections the straight pieces were first cut on a band saw leaving small interconnecting sections on the inside of each bend. The parts where then assembled in place and tabbed to hold there shape. They were then removed and glassed into final form.

Good Luck

MM

 

Thats a lot of work Mike --its not that it needs any modification its just that it looks domestic and raises eyebrows. If I could replicate it exactly as fitting is critical it would look better. Or I might wrap it in insulation so old stuck in the muds dont have a heart attack and run a round like a beheaded chicken when they see them.

I dont see that FB glass pipe would be all that better than PVC as heat resistant,---better yes but to go to all that trouble no.

You guys really need to experiment with PVC.

PS the yanmar 6LP engine in the photo has no cold water injection modifications it is standard Yanmar injection elbow and the be honest with you when they are running the pipes are quite cool to touch. The drain in the picture is that -- a drain to clear the exhaust of water after flushing, something not many manufacturers of systems seem important. Notice the cock is a small plastic garden hose cock--how come that does not not burn up I wonder???

Thats water cooled exhaust for you,--- do some experiments.

 

Professionals will not spec or recommend a material beyond the limits specified by its manufacturer even if it has worked in one installation.

 

You might be able to go with PP plastic pipe. Its higher temp. The problem is that the PP is heat joined, not glued, so difficult for an amateur without the expensive tool to build. Even PP lacks reinforcement. PP is used to vent hot gas from home heating systems.

Remember...a failed exhaust system is not an inconvenience...it could kill you

 

Thanks but Im pretty sure the 10 year test is conclusive as far as Im concerned.

I really dont know how you die from a exhaust failure, is this another one of your dreams or thoughts you want to share with us. I don t want to know thoughts and dreams, ive had enough.,---sorry like but enough is enough..

 

If you wake up all stiff like a dead sardine ...suspect carbon monoxide poisoning from a leaking exhaust

 

I have 13 alarms to tell me whats going on plus I can stick my head out of the window to breath I do'nt run the engines when Im sleeping........

 

I think PVC exhaust would work fine.

That said, if the cooling system ever clogged or failed, it would melt within seconds and by the time you noticed, there would be no exhaust left.

 

This guy tried melting PVC and says the plastic fumes would have killed him.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l9iILOVOtQE
Says it does not want to melt.

So if it ever did have a water pump failure, I think the pipe is going to do a melt-burn and the fumes will seriously hurt you.

 

I think rubber will do the same.

 

..there are alarms for events like this.