I thought I'd share someone's design for homemade kayak cart.

Not mine, just thought I'd post pics of his collapsible and scalable design.








Kayak cart - $20 (milpitas)

Date: 2012-10-06, 5:23PM PDT
xcmhf-3306083445@sale.craigslist.org
I made this cart to roll my kayak to and from the water, pull the pins and collaps it and stow in your kayaks cargo hatch paddle away, sold my kayak so i dont need anymore $20 call or text joe 925-998-8134

 

That is a nice design.

 

problem i see is that white pole down the bottom.. catching on things ?

 

i think you attach a longer pole on that so as to act as a handle,as the kayak will be hanging over that part and you have no way to tow it?.

 

Short pole is trailing not leading. It forms a tripod with the wheels so boat stays level on the cart when not rolling. Properly used it won't catch on anything. Kayak is the handle.

$20 is a very fair price.

 

That price is a great bargain for the parts alone!

Design could use some improvement, compared to the carts I have used. Wheels are too small for rough or soft terrain, balloon tires would be better. http://www.hotshotproducts.org/roleez_watercraft_transport.htm#kcc Short pole for loading can be made to fold out of the way. Using straps to fasten to kayak is a hassle, flip up type are simpler and can be removed for storage. http://www.davisnet.com/marine/products/list_marine.asp?grp=mo5 OR scupper hole type: http://www.amazon.com/Paddleboy-Scupper-Pup-Boat-Cart/product-reviews/B0020KAZDU

I use a single, fat, flip up wheel on my larger fishing pontoon which is too heavy for back straps. Wheel is instantly removable by using a single hitch pin, and allows rolling like a wheel barrow in the flip down position. Home made from an old dock wheel and scrounged yoke. May not work for a kayak because of the narrow profile imbalance...

Hope this helps.

Porta

 

On these carts the "magic" happens when sharpened pipe ends are

forced through "pool noodles" for custom snug fit.

Just bevel the OUTSIDE of the pipe ends, so the noodle diameter is stretched just a bit.

I've also heard you can keep it all centered by inserting small pipe down hole in noodle w/slightly loose fit so waste inside big pipe stays centered.

Personally, if boat is light and small enough, I like the bow/stern mounted mini-dolly, because it is mini and allows for brute dragging over rough terrain.

 

I've seen these with "kick stands" with rope that lets them bounce along over objects

but still self deploy. Loose swinging larger pipe "t" over main pipe, with some "stop" inside.

 

Someone on here a while back (think it was Terry, aka ancient kayaker), said he cuts a kayak-shaped hole in a chunk of plywood and lines the edges, then attaches wheels to the bottom. Stuff one end of the kayak through the hole, pick up the other end, and go.

 

I looked on google images and of the hundreds shown,only one has that little extra arm pointing down. I dunno how in H it's supposed to make it so the " boat stays level on the cart when not rolling"

Every one I've had and seen is just 2 wheels,and you bungy the kayak to the wheels...which keeps the boat on the trolley..and level.

Don't explain-it's unimportant

 

That's basically all it is. It's been going for years. I used replacement lawn-mower wheels about $8 the pair with axles, they handle bumps and grass well, soft sand not so well. Every time I add a new canoe or kayak to the fleet I modify the cutout a bit, and I use a bungy cord to secure it to the cockpit coaming . . .

 

WestVanHan, I'll explain anyways....

I believe on this cart the mid-pipe is fixed ridge, and as shown the cart would hold the boat off the ground, bow about 6" off ground, stern about 3' off ground.

Grab either end and middle pipe clears ground, but not by much, but that works for this guy.

I've seen wonderful things done with PVC sleeved over other PVC with a screw in the inner pipe and "motion control channel" cut into outer pipe.

Maybe he lifts the kick stand, slides it 1" to the side to hold it up using above mentioned method.