boat stuck in mould

ive just found an old compressor out the back one of the fathers, there is no gun with it at all, ill take a photo let me know what ye think, its a big yolk mind.

im gonna get back to repainting my mold black, so i can be sure ive missed no places when waxing it. i cant seem to find it anywhere. dose tooling gel act the same as gel coat it needs to be air free for it to cure. so would this be out of the question.

 

i cant believe it works, its been about 14 years since ive seen this last, and she still a goer

thats all that can be found of it no lines or spry gun.

 

Great! Now that you've got yourself a compressor your boat building project will be a little easier, and you'll have the potential to do some really nice work. You won't need it until your mold repairs are done, so that will give you plenty of time to find a hose and spray gun. Right now you need to stock up on some sand paper, you'll use everything from 60 grit to 600 wet-or-dry during your repair. I'm going to assume that since you're just starting out your supplies are limited, so as you build them up keep your eyes open for bulk packs of the most common grades. You'll also need a few plastic squeegees to apply your filler compounds...keep them clean as you're working.

Good Luck,
MM

 

Someone is watching over you !! you do realise that dont you !!
Everything will happen in its own good time !
that compresser was a really good find qand has a good sized tank !! Just remember to drain the water out at the end of each day and leave a couple of pound pressure in the tank helps keep the seals and orings in place properly . I see the line connection is 3/8 as well thats a plus. there is a presure gauge and a regulator a little spray of Crc will make sure they work freely when you want to use them
Lets see how good you luck really is try and find a pressure pot spray unit ! wont need it for a while but will be really handy to spray you gel coats and paints and a small spray gun if theres one laying round !as long as everything is complete will be able to make it work . just have to understand everything about everything !!.
At the rate you are going you will know more than most laminators know in a whole life time . some never graduate past the bucket , brush and roller stage !! everything else is to hard to understand !!.
Resurfacing a mould is not an easy job and even seasoned guys been in the industry for years would shy away from even thinking about it . its is possible and yes you can use black tooling gel but tooling gel is a harder product , personally id go for deep deep red like as in marone and just standard gel coat not tooling gel . any dark unusual color os ok and will show up blemishs and defects but never put the mould outside in the sun !! its will cook its self and distort maybe so be warned .
Me i would stick with doing repairs and get on with making some boats !! later when the wintercomes and if thing look rosey for the coming year then make a complete new mould but keep the other one as a standby ! if gets busy can run with two mould and that will speed things up no end !!. Your choice !!:idea:

 

thing to look for !

Now you have some puff power time to add to the collection of possible spray equipment if you can find secondhand in reasonable condition as long as its complete!!. everything ususally cleans up after being pulled apart and soaked in acetone for a couple of days . Paint usually falls off !! a wire brush will do wonders even a tooth pick helps clear out some of the holes .
Pressure pot !! this can be used a lot in your case . look and find ! this is what it looks like !! pot and hoses with a gun attached if possible . even just the pot by its self is ok if you find one either big or small its an advantage to have both for differant jobs ! i always build my own from what ever i can find in any workshop i go to . airlines are standard or in your case 3/8 if possible . the supply hose that carries the gelcoat needs to be styrene resistant so its a little harder to find . clear if possible so you gan actually see the gelcoat as it travels up the line when you first fire it up . and when you clean out the gun you can make sure the hose is 99.9% clean inside norso when and if you get into doing colours !!. when i set up and teach some one to use this system the gun get completely striped at the end of a spray session and all the bits ar in acetone completely sealed up If the gun is properlu clean you should never see any gel coat antwhere on the gun inside or outside ! !!like no where !!.
Keep it clean lightly use vaseline when you assemble it and it will always stay in A1condition for a life time . I have no time for anyone that abuses equipment and have sent a couple of guys packing on the spot like go and never want to see you here again , there is no excuse at all .
The gun in the picture cam out of the box of rubbish that arrived here and the chinese guys wouldnt even look at it . has a broken hook off the top but theres nothing wrong with the gun its self .it has no seals inside and no squash washers just tappers and seats and if they are polished and kept clean will out last some of the later guns with fancy things all over them . so look and see what else you can find !! any spray gun is better than no gun at all !!and usually can be made to spary most anything !!!.

 

Like What--glue . Fancy things all over them!!! they are fan adjusters and regulator

Your not thinking of doing any car metallic finish painting are you.

 

Yip have sprayed all kinds a things with it but the chinese Guys wont touch the system because the to many thing to remember . done metalic paints not metal flake but !!!. can spray gel coat , enamal paint , laquare , polyurethane clear , do speckle , all with that gun !! make quite a nice job and if the job is small just sitch to a smaller pot , always use drop in plastic containers so make cleaning quicker and use half the acetone !! .

Looks are deceiving . thats why my girlfriends likes making love in the dark with her eyes shut . when she opens her eyes she cant beieve i am 68 !

 

Im 69 inches

 

I can not emphasize how important a clean gun is, for metallic or car painting a tiny piece of dirt is disastrous.

Soak your gun in thinners infact keep it in thinners never let it dry out. The fan holes -on the main jet----2 tiny little things are so important.

 

laying down or standing up ??

 

I usually find a plastic container if possible to put all of the diassembled gun into , non here so keep it in the store assembled !! so dont loose anything . as i said they want touch it !!. has all be cleaned and lightly greased !!
We have 3 guys that think they are Gods gift of sprayers and they always have trouble setting there guns to spray anything two knobs is confusing , They never learned what each knob actually does or what they are for its twiddle and twiddle til its some where near to how it should be . I made a pressure regulator for there line because they use 100 psi for everything and over spray for miles !!! its back on the shelf i see . that was 3 things to think about pressure ,flow ,and fan , b@$#*y hell thats just to much !!

 

100Psi wow had some one told them to keep away from the job.

Mind you on a high CFM gun spraying metallic I would not flinch at a good 60 or even more.

Im a cellulose man any way. You can cheat today do a crap job flat it then laquer it.

Cant complain --it works. Just a bit gobby to what I was used to.

 

tunnels you will be glad to hear that the sisters boyfriend is a panel beater/sprayer. so not only dose he have the gun he will be able to show me how to use it. it will be next week sometime before i get the compound and need more gel coat. once ive made a start on the repairs ill start posting up pictures. looking forward to making a start and pumping out more molds.

 

Its good to have friends specially friends that have skills you can learn from that will be usefull for you in the future ,the panel beating a painting will be handy for you not only with spray painting but fairing and filling etc you future brother inlaw will have a keen eye so he will be able to help you .
Each gun has a personality of its own and its up to you to understand every part and learn what the wee knobs do and are capable of . Best to find a wall and spray gallons of water !

You need to disassemble and reassemble the gun as many times it takes till you can do it with your eyes shut! you allways have the tools required in your pocket or close to a container of clean acetone ,when spraying gell for one of a thousands reasons you may have to take the gun apart and you need to have the tools and understand where is and whats causing the problems so you can fix it in a instant . a tiny bit of somethng that partly or completely blocks the nozzel so has to be cleaared . In the back of your mind is you only have a limited time to get the gell sprayed before it starts to thicken and eventually gel so the seconds are important !! Know what your gel time is and deduct 5 minutes i have a count down on my watch that i use but a simple egg timer is good ! the moment you pour the catalyst into the gelcoat the countdown starts . so know your product and and how its going to behave , know the temprature and humidity and then you will have a pretty good idea what you gel time will be plus all the other things i keep going on and on about over and over again . Do this that happens !!!,do that this happens everything is linkrd together always be awear of what you are doing and and what you should be doing next . it all becomes instink after a while and that is not good because you will forget something that vitally important . It why airline pilots have a chech list they have to read over and over everythime they sit in the driver seat memory has a habit of getting lazy so dont trust it !!

There is apost already for how to spray PVA so just find and read and completely understand what i have written .
The spraying of gel coat is something else entirely and completely differant so wont fill your head with that just yet. Have a good weekend .

in the place where you work do you have any first aid stuff !! plasters for cuts and a way of flushing your eyes if you happen to get catalyst in your eye or splashed in you face !! you are only given one pair of eyes so look after them . small shop so you need to be tidy and should know where eveything is with you eyes shut because it could save you life . do you have two door ways to get out incase of a fire ?? fire spreads so fast you usually only have time to get up and run so what do you have to put out the fire and how do you get out of you workshop !!. accidents happen and people cause accidents they dont happen by themselves !! falling over things laying all over the floor is down right careless and very dangerous !!
lessons learned now could save a lot of problems tomorrow .

I always smile when i go into a factory and see the workers all done uo in there safty protective gear !! i always make the remark they must be really dirty and dangerous wokers if the need all that to stop getting hurt or dirty .
I never wear gloves or very rarely ,all my tools are spotlessly clean and stay thay way during and all through the time im working .
On my watch have never had a accident happen for any reason !! more accidents are created because people rely on the safty gear to protect themselve so they work dangerously !
As a excise i would ask everyone not to wear any protective equipment for a day !!at the end of the day we would all talk about what they had learned !!dosent take long to become safety minded all the time !! Its just a state of mind !! and if every one does it every one follows and if they see something that could happen they do something about it there and then and not just walk away and NOT MY PROBLEM !!
i had a crew of 12 workers and after a while they thought like i did and the resin stayed on the job and not splashed and spread every where . its a sticky job but you can work cleanly !!People learn from each other and dont want to be left out so its all about changing attatudes in the workplace !!

Take care !!!

 

ok im ready to order the material for the repairs, but im not too sure what im going to need to get. so ill put down a check list and see what ye think.

1, white gel coat.

2, do i need some wax to add to this gel coat to make it a flow coat?

3, sand paper wet/dry not sure on the grit where do i start and with wat grit first. and wet and dry whats the difference, i know water is added but for what reason?

4, polishing compound, starting at 200 and fiinishing at 500.

is this what i will need to complete the repairs and be ready to start another boat??