the most boat that can be built in 9 consecutive days

Discussion in 'Multihulls' started by peterchech, Jul 22, 2011.

  1. peterchech
    Joined: Aug 2010
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    peterchech Senior Member

    So being in an urban environment (immediate NYC area) and on a budget, I have to improvise on building space. My last boat, a wa'apa, was built in 6 bolt together sections so that I could build it in my basement.

    Well, I want to build a minimalist cruiser with a cabin. Something that can be used in open water. I have dreams of a smallish cruiser that can be trailered to Florida and cruise the Caribbean (I’m young and can rough it a bit)… I can use the backyard of a relative to build the boat, but I will only have about 8 solid days to build the main hulls and waterproof them. My father in law will be taking a week off work with me to help build it. I only need to put together the hulls and paint/waterproof them, then I will be storing them in a boatyard where I can work on rigging, interior, rudders, daggerboards, crossbeams, etc. Oh, and the hulls need to be light enough to transport from the back yard to a flatbed without a crane or anything (I do have a few friends that I can call on to help though).

    I have ordered plans for Richard Woods’ Acorn 21’ catamaran, and for the buccaneer 24 trimaran. I know I can slap together the Acorn’s dory-style hulls in the time allotted, not so sure about the buc’s though.

    I really like these two designs, but before I commit to one of them, does anyone have any other suggestions for a smallish cruising multi that can be slapped together in a solid week? Or does anyone think my plan is unrealistic?
     
  2. Manfred.pech
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    Manfred.pech Senior Member

    Peter, go for Kismet T24 from Bill Kristofferson http://smalltrimarans.com/blog/?p=723#more-723
     
  3. Corley
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    Corley epoxy coated

    You could also consider some of kurt hughes cylinder mold designs if you were organised and had your mold ready to go plus all your bulkheads and stringers cut and ready I think your time frame would be very achievable the positive is you will come out with a very aesthetic modern rounded hull shape that if you ever want to sell in future should command a better price for a similar material investment. I'd recommend you order Kurt's cylinder mold video to see if it could fit with your building plans. You may even be able to afford to build a D30 trimaran or similar or one of Kurts rapid build small cats. Cylinder mold is not a magic bullet but it makes it possible to build fair, light modern hulls with weights that are competitive with sandwich construction.

    http://multihulldesigns.com
     
  4. lugnuts
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    lugnuts Junior Member

    A week doesn't seem like very much time. Have you considered a conversion?:
     

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  5. peterchech
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    peterchech Senior Member

    Yeah I just dont think the cylinder mold method can be much faster than s&g, especially considering two cylinders would have to be made plus the cabin would be s&g anyway...
     
  6. rayaldridge
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    rayaldridge Senior Member

    Peter, that's a pretty tall order. Consider that if you build a cat, that's a hull in 4 days. With cabins, I just don't know if it can be done. I imagine you've seen Gary Dierking's built-on-the-beach outrigger, but that's a much smaller boat than what you're proposing and no cabins.

    Maybe if you can get your panels scarfed and cut to size, and all other components that have fixed measurements. As I understand it, bulkheads must be cut after hulls are taped up to fit properly, because of different bending properties in plywood. It would take me at least a couple of hours to measure, cut, and install a bulkhead, but I'm old and slow. I've been working part-time on a 24 foot hull for better than a month, and it's nowhere near ready to move.
     
  7. DGreenwood
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    DGreenwood Senior Member

    peterchech
    Your answer is yes...maybe. If you are a careful planner and manager. There is no reason you can't pull that off If you do this:

    1- Familiarize yourself with the plans until there is no question you understand every detail of the boat and how you will build it.

    2- Enact in your mind every process in the build and take note of all materials and tools required for every step. If you aren't familiar enough with these processes to do this thoroughly then hire a pro to help you with this stage.

    3- Do step 2 one more time.

    4-Using previous list, make sure you have every tool and every piece of material you'll need and then add plenty more. A lost pair of pliers or not enough resin can destroy an otherwise good schedule. Try to make any special tools ahead (like filleting spatulas etc.).

    5- Think about how much you could build ahead of time-before you need the big yard. Like stringers, stems, molds, etc.

    6-Thinking about the build sequence consider the environment. Are you protected from rain? What is the temp? What about your cure times and having alternative work while waiting for things to kick? Which hardener would be best? (have plenty of at least two different ones that work at temps near expected temps) Can you utilize available manpower more efficiently according to skill level, likes and dislikes, likely hood they'll turn up, ability to work long hours, weak backs etc.?

    7- Now write out a build schedule using all this info. Account for some snags and be realistic about how much you really will work at it.

    Whats your answer? If you come up with a schedule you believe then go for it!

    Good luck
     
  8. gonzo
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    gonzo Senior Member

    Look at traditional sharpies. You can build a 24' hull in a couple of days.
     
  9. peterchech
    Joined: Aug 2010
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    peterchech Senior Member


    Good advice dgreenwood thanks.

    Gonzo I am addicted to multihulls.

    I have received the plans for Acorn... it is really a plank on frame design, but I believe the build process could be so much quicker if built S&G from pre-formed panels like my previous boats were built.

    I also wonder if some of the many stringers could be done without. Perhaps by using 6mm ply for the skins instead of 4mm, adding some weight but making my goal of a week-long build more feasible...
     
  10. Deering
    Joined: Feb 2005
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    Deering Senior Member

    If you're now thinking of converting an existing design to a new building method...no chance. If you had a well developed S&G cat design that gave you accurate panel dimensions, you could pre-cut, pre-scarf those at home in your basement ahead of time so when you got onsite you could get to work with the layup.

    DGreenwood is correct - your biggest time constraint will be waiting for epoxy to cure. You can't hurry chemistry. If you go with too hot of a mix, it'll kick on you before you can lay it out. Cold or rainy weather that week will set you back.

    But the basic hull build is only the first step, and not the most time consuming. You'll still have fairing, painting, rigging, and a thousand other details to finish up. Will you have some place to accomplish those? Why not rent a storage unit that's big enough to work in for a few months, then you could do this over the winter and not impose on your uncle.
     
  11. Wavewacker
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    Wavewacker Senior Member

    WOW! What ever you build, can you post the progress as a build thread...if you have time? We built a house in four days, it would be interesting to see how you do it! Might look at the Eco-6 and Gaco (?), it's a small cat with a cabin, sorry I don't know the designer, I saw them at Messing about in small boats I believe. Good luck
     
  12. peterchech
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    peterchech Senior Member

    Yeah a jarcat isn't really what I'm looking for but thanks for the suggestion. I really would love to build that buc 24 but space requirements just won't allow for it... so, something in the range of Woods' Acorn is my best option the way I see it.

    Not to open up a whole new can of worms here, but... why can't I adapt the Acorn to stitch and glue? It has been a strong enough method for my other (albeit smaller) builds, and is much faster than plank and frame... what gives?

    (please don't answer this by simply telling me that the designer knows everything and that's why... the kind of guy who goes and builds his own boat is usually not the kind of guy who just does things because that's how everyone else does them, know what I mean? Is S&G somehow inferior to plank on frame?)
     
  13. DarthCluin
    Joined: Mar 2009
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    DarthCluin Senior Member

    Actually, the Acorn is not plank on frame. Phil Bolger called this method "tack and tape". The lower right hand side of the study plan says the chines can be timber or glass tape and epoxy, so somewhere in your plans there should be instructions for this. For similar construction look at Bolger's Chebacco.
    http://www.chebacco.com/
    Can you build it entirely as stitch and glue? Yes you can, but if you do it will not be an Acorn. You will be responsible for figuring out the modifications needed. It will be a design of your own that only looks like an Acorn, and you alone will be responsible for the success or failure of the boat.
    My first advice is don't. Even expensive plans are the cheapest part of building a boat. Write Richard, describing how you want to build. Ask him if he feels it is doable with this design, and how much he would want for modifications to the plans. Remember, it is his design.
    Boats built without a minimum of internal framing are generally built in a female mold. The main advantage to female molds is that the materials do not have to be marine grade, and you won't be carrying it around in the finished boat. The disadvantage is you still have to build it. Assuming the hulls are assymetric, you will still have to build two of the molds, or after having built a hull, take the mold apart and flip the sections. Further, these boats are generally completely fiberglassed inside as well as outside. Look at some of the examples of building photos on Team Scarab's website to see what I mean:
    http://www.teamscarab.com.au/
    If the plans are still not what you wanted to do, keep looking. Perhaps a Tiki 21 (the original origami boat) or a Fish and Chips 7.3 would be more to your liking.
     
  14. redreuben
    Joined: Jan 2009
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    redreuben redreuben

    Good advice Darth ! I was thinking the B24 build method could be used ?
    RR
     

  15. DarthCluin
    Joined: Mar 2009
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    DarthCluin Senior Member

    The thing is, the Buccaneer 24 is not stitch and glue, or even tack and tape. The Buc is nail and glue with fiberglass tape to waterproof the seams. Peter seems to want to avoid stringers, and there are lots of stringers in the Buc. Like the chine logs and gunwales of the Wa'apa, they make the panels stiff enough to bend around the bulkheads and lock and key them in place.
    Could Peter pre-construct side panels complete with stringers and wrap them around the bulkheads? Maybe.
    Remember, the Buc has that interesting double bulkhead 4-4A in the middle. Richard's bulkheads are single. Also, preconstructing the hull sides with stringers and butt blocks will require a 24' table.
    I think you could probably build Acorn's framework more easily than you could build a female mold. Can you build two hulls in 9 days? Assuming you preconstruct bulkheads, pre-scarph stringers, etc., I think the weather will be the single biggest factor. Providing some kind of shelter will improve your chances.
     

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