The game is afoot

only thing thats mine in there so far is the floor and a pile of tools, OK that and a beer fridge

Got a bunch of new lines on the floor today, started the new station sections and added a station in between 1 and 2 for collision insurance. Also going to get silly and loft in both the cockpit floor and the forward section floor as well as a few other particulars.

cheers
B

 

Well the beer fridge shows you have your starting priorities in order Geo.

 

See my drawing...... View attachment Bronchobulkheads.pdf

The fowardmost plywood bulkhead (7" forward of station 1 and 1'10" aft the stem face) will be your collision bulkhead.......once you have the new bulkheads lofted you can loft the inside and outside of the stem and forefoot, then draw some sections through it and laminate it up.....

 

Ya I went with your layout of the new bulkheads, and figured that first one was waterproof but included one more between 1 and 2 cause I've seen one to many guys hammer the dock trying to park. If your feeling strongly against it I can always just skip it. I'll work out ventilation and access to the area.

The bulk of the bulkheads are lofted ( I'm a "tad" ahead of schedule on the lofting ) and it should be done tomorrow. I'll start in on the cedar ply soonest. I was thinking of using an edging around the bulkheads of cedar or walnut as well ( most likely cedar ) maybe another 5/8 either side 1 1/4 total by say another 1 1/4 in. That way the cedar ply could sit in a groove ( lotsa glue area ) and the edging would provide a larger contact area ( less pressure ) for the hull, also keeps the edges up out of the bilge. Just some thoughts, if your feeling strongly against any of them just holler.

Oh hey in post 132 I detailed a slight change to the keel, don't suppose you could review that post and tell me what you think .

while I've got you handy, I know your busy with your own project, I found an engine that I kinda like. Taking your advice to keep the power down near hull speed, Its basically 16x16x20 and weighs in at 130lb. Yanmar 13.4 hp marine http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310155673438 &item=310155673438#shId but I am concerned that in high wind or rough water 13 hp wont be enough. also found this one http://cgi.ebay.com/CUMMINS-DIESEL-...pment_Parts&hash=item2c4be496e8#ht_1403wt_702

just made an offer on this one
Yanmar 2002 model 4TNE84
not sure if its still available though

 

Ok got the rest of the stations the top sides and the transom, I'm going to guess the hull wont be more than say 3/4 thick and go with that on the take off. should be gluing stuff up tomorrow.

cheers
B

 

I doubt your keel change will be noticeable in the boat's handling......The open Hand version was trying to provide clean water to the prop and full protection to the prop and rudder heel.....to do that on your version will require an elaborate bracket type skeg iron (from the aft bottom corner of the keel down to the rudder heel bearing) The old style straight line keel was for ease of hauling on a carriage or drying grid, it's not necessary these days as everyone uses travellifts.............

More power means you will be able to go at speed uphill in rougher weather.....That little Cummins looks pretty nice but it seems to be a stationary engine intended for a generator? Do these things still have fixed RPM governors? You need a variable speed unit for a boat.....also the cooling problem......are you going to build a water-cooled exhaust manifold? In my experience Yanmars are expensive, vibrate a lot, and they're noisy......Kubota, Isuzu, Nisan, Cummins.....all smoother and quieter.....A friend has a new little D1 Volvo (without turbo) which seems to be a beauty though very expensive......You want something that puts out the required power at around 2000-2400 RPM max, less would be better.....

 

Sounds like I can loose the extra draft then. I didn't hear back from anyone on the engines I was looking at so looks like once again I'll be pursuing another rout. The little Yanmars are available but if your thinking they aren't all that smooth then I'll look into the options you suggest and see what I can find.

Kubota, Isuzu, Nisan, Cummins
cheers.

ps
haven't had this much fun in years

 

here's is the specs on that Cummins I noted earlier

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...V296KNzOJEvk8F6Zg&sig2=9Il0xenRwabRZs7GV_B0cA

its a generator engine, or its supposed to be

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...GMr7z9PkA&sig2=KNFfmHEwRl-c1Ls1LYiXTw&cad=rja

so its designed to run under constant load. I'm still considering a sail type drive which will eliminate the thrust issues.

 

today was kinda a wash, no real progress just double checking the drawing ( corrected a few minor things ) and got some stuff to get started.

 

Double checking is good, I sometimes forget (or get lazy) and mistakes get made.

Was i right about that one offset point being wrong? Waterline 2 at St4 (if my memory still works).

Lurvio

 

I found several that were slightly off and if I remember that was one of them.

 

milled out a bunch of cedar for the bulkheads today, 5/16 strips, lots of sawdust. tomorrow I have to work on something that makes me money but I should have time to glue up a bulkhead or two, was hoping to get to that today but it took me a while to find descent cedar, something about "no I don't was fence material grade" that seemed to throw people off. Clear select western red cedar was for some reason a rare bread in this town.

cheers
B

 

Wait, how are you doing the bulkheads that you need strips?

 

Diagonal laid strips of cedar 5/16 each, 5/8 total thickness with a inside and outside cord of 1 1/4 x 1 1/4 black walnut. Cedar ply will be rabbeted into the walnut same as a TJI. Tad suggested the cedar ply and I figured that an inside and outside cord would add about zilch to the total weight and considerably in strength. I'll post picts of the first few soonest. Ends up looking sorta like this

at least in section