Condensation in the cabin

Great idea - I am going to file that one under 'extremely useful'

 

Spray on insulation is an option, did this on a 55ft. steel and a 30ft alum boat build and it worked out great. Nothing but nothing will stop condensation in an uninsulated hull, combination of ventaliation and wood stove heat will reduce it to very low levels but thats about it.(cold wet facts). I have two chimney vented propane heaters(fireplace style) for my (to be well insulated) build in progress, one for the main cabin, one for the wheelhouse. I am considering replacing the main cabin unit with a small wood fired (pellets)( charcoal) stove that i will build myself. (Light bulb) An option, wasn't there a line of small charcoal burning stoves on the market some years ago for boats. A friend of mine from Alaska working on a new papermill build in Newfoundland had one set up in his home(truck camper). It was very compact and should fit in a small boat no prob.Let me Google that and see what pops up, meanwhile someone out there might be able to add to that info--Geo.
Googled and a quick search was surprised to find they are still available but bigger than what i remember.(18 to 20 in. high, 11 to 12 in profile). I'm sure years ago I seen much smaller units on the market.


A yacht is not defined by the vessel but by the care and love of her owner.

 

No Frosty. If you scroll up you'll see the OP mentioned the use of a candle overnight.

Perhaps you should insert a candle...?

-Tom

P.S. By the way, it's "you're" not "your", you know as in "you are" vs ownership.

 

Ah I see your using the American spell checker.

 

- I prefer the olde English spell chequer myself . . .

 

When you guys have finished pissing up the wall!

BTW the spurts mean you are past it!

Thank you to those with serious assistance about boat ventilation rather than spelling suggestions to offer. I have now bought some vents which will allow some flow through to those areas which currently don't get this. Based on forum advice I hope this will help.

I will let you know when I have made the installations and tried them out.

regards,
Dr. Peter

 

You're on the right track, ventilation will help, keep a small wood style heater in mind for those cool nights that generate condensation. You must forgive forum threads they always drift and at times need steerage but thats the nature of the beast, hope it all works out for you and you don't have to lift the bonnet or change a tyre in your bright coloured auto, (It's also the language of NFLD.---Geo

 

No Frosty, I don't use spell check besides, it's got nothing to do with it.

-Tom

 

...and Richard recommended a hundred times here. At present it seems to be proven by Murielle to be a valid solution.

Heat btw is not always the solution. Drying out a humid environment is done easiest during a sub zero period. Just let the sun (or a heater) warm up the hull and open the place for a complete exchange of the warm (and humid) air with the cold (and dry) air.

A open fire (stove) of 3kW can dry out a 70ft boat within 3 days of permanent operation, a 25kW blower cannot!

Stay comfortable
Hägar

 

Did you know that for a period of 50yrs. during the 1500's, the king of France and the King of England agreed upon and decreed a new language to be spoken in both of their kingdoms. That language was a mixture of French and English, I wonder if written records of this new language exists and what spell checquer they used.Anyhow to stay on track does anyone out there have any further info on a more compact wood or charcoal heater. Has anyone yet developed a pellet type wood burning stove for a boat?--Geo

 

Yes... get one from Andrew...

http://www.marinestove.com/sproducthistory.htm

There are several models available aside from the Little Cod. If you buy a stove from Andrew, you are supporting this country (well, NAFTA, seeing as how you are from Nova Scotia) and someone who is making a living for his family by providing us boaters with a very very high quality product.




These stoves run on wood or coal. I have used both in them, but strongly prefer wood because of the type of heat developed with it.

The "bio brick" type fuels work as well. I've burned them in the Little Cod for an entire winter in Maine. All told, I have approximately 5 or 6 years of winter liveaboard, with my wife, under my belt using these stoves as the sole source of heat for our boats. We have no other home, aside from our boats and we live aboard 365 days a year.

These are serious stoves, putting out 28,000 BTU.

They are very warm and pleasing. You can cook all of your meals on the stove while you are aboard as well. We almost never used our LPG stove in the winters since the Little Cod was always going.

Not only that, they are a part of your history in Canada!



Two of our stove pattern sets have their roots in Nova Scotia, Canada. The Lunenburg Foundry produced a wide range of marine equipment for commercial vessels and yachts since the company's founding in 1891.

Lunenburg ceased producing stoves in the early 1990's with the closure of their iron foundry operations.

Utilizing Lunenburg's vintage foundry patterns, Navigator is continuing producion

 

They are nice but not cheap you know.

As far as I remember there are some Brit´s doing as good for half the pennies.
Have a look at "toplicht"

Regards
Hägar

 

We discussed them here: http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/option-one/hot-water-heaters-cookers-745.html

 

Agree 100% on the Little Cod but the price is insane on these stoves. Even at half the price I still would have to think hard on a purchase but it certainly would be more in line with what I would consider a more reasonable price. However it's the same old story in marketing do I survive on the large profits of a few or the smaller profits of the many and who am I to judge other than while i would like one, the price kills all thoughts of a purchase. I'll build one instead.___Geo.

 

For the average, unoccupied marina queen with condensation trouble the simplest option may be a very small electric heater. The inside temperature only needs to be a degree or two warmer than the outside to eliminate all condensation, and electric heat is dry.