It was great while it lasted...

Usually they are removed because they are so damaged it is cheaper to replace them than repair, or un-repairable. Usually they are re-cycled for their metal content. PM on the way.

 

I see.

Thanks. Looking forward to the PM.

 

Cat, just buy some 110s put them on some carts , roll them where you need them when you need them.Start with two , buy two dehues put them on the same cart,wagon or what ever you can find to roll them around on. rick

 

Rick, will that technique dehumidify a 30' x 60' tent?

I ask because I'm doing plywood bulkheads.

How do I handle the hot air that comes out of the back of the 110's? Surely you don't mean I should roll 110's around inside the building on a cart?

 

How about some flexible dryer vent hooked to the back of the 110 with an attached ventilator fan sitting outside to pull the air away. Or you could have a shop vac with a long swimming pool hose hooked to the back of the 110.

 

They make small portable AC,s. A big dehue will crack the drywall mud on the walls. You dont need to suck all the moisture out of the air, just some of it, two or three samll ones will cost you 4 to 6 weeks rent on a large one. You will only need to take the humidity down 15% to 20% on avg. I can tell you the problems with working in a closed area with no AC while a dehue is running, getting it too dry is rough.You need to find a balance with the cost of cooling and dehumidifing and the time it takes you to do so. Do you need 10 tons of cooling at night, or 60% humidity ? Can your project make do with 2 tons and 80%? These are the type questions you need to answer before you invest time and money. I dont think you need to cool the whole tent, just the area your working in. The cooling is more for your comfort than keeping the epoxy from kicking in, the cool air will sink anyway and lower the temps around your layup area, slowing the epoxy kick time. Small units are cheep in the scheam of things and can be used on the boat in the future,and if they supply the needed results now then you are big money ahead. Inflation is here,winches are high,rigging is high , it will only get higher. rick

 

Hoses act like a radiator. Learned this the hard way when trying to air condition just my hazmat suit. I put the air intake into seriously cold air and it still came out warm on the suit end.

I then insulated the hose and it still did next to nothing.

The hoses would just allow all the heat to escape back into the building and do nothing but waste electricity.

Rick, what do you mean about rolling ACs on carts? Did you have something else in mind?

 

There are a lot of topics here, so I'll post inline.... in red.

 

Cat , they make small portable 110 AC unit,s, plug them in and place them in your work area , when you move to another area move them with you and let them blow directly toward you. A wagon you can pull easly, or cart , anything you can move without much effort. The AC needs to be at least waist high, put an ice chest with your drinks in the wagon and the AC on top of the ice chest, take a drink cool off.

 

Google portable AC unite,s , two 14,000 btu unit,s might lower the temps in the tent enough to get you by. rick

 

I dont know how to post in red , but walmart sells bags of dirt, berm up and redirect the small rivers. rck

 

The A/Cs will lower the relative humidity inside the tent, as will fans, even if they don't do much for the temps.

Going off on a sort of a tangent here...

I had an idea a while back while I was designing a solar powered wood kiln for a "cold sink" to remove excess humidity. Basically it would be a pipe driven into the ground with a "T" fitting at ground level that led to an outside drain. From about a foot up would be a series of funnels or fins that would point towards the pipe at their bottom. Because the pipe was driven deep into the ground it would always be colder that the surrounding air and so water would condense on the fins, run down into the pipe, and out the drain. It would act as a sort of dehumidifier with no moving parts. No idea if it would work, but it seems good in my head.

 

".... I do, however also have daily rivers running through the area from the daily rain. That stuff needs to be dried up."Basic Boy Scout stuff. Trench or sandbag uphill side of tent to re-direct flow around and not through the tent.

 

Salt de-humidifiers were first invented for use in the age of sail to protect cargo.

 

I did look at portable spot coolers. They are twice the price of the fixed systems per btu. A pair of 14000 btu units runs about $7000 with tax and or shipping. 120,000 btu fixed system installed is the same price.

Rivers of water are complicated. Entire area floods and I'm on a concrete pad. Not fixable.