Bead and Cove Router Bits - Where to buy in USA?

Wow, you're good. I was about to type that question.

I have stations right now that are the actual hull lines. I didn't cut stations deducted for the longitudinal supports (I called them stringers, but I think they have another name).

Here is what they look like:





See how small a margin I have at the edges of those 8' sheets of wafer board? What do I do with that, given these lines are the true hull shape?

I can't even cut notches out for the longitudinal runners because I don't have enough plywood to do that. I am very much NOT a wood guy, so I don't understand what to do with the wood in this situation where I'm short.

One way I was thinking of doing it was to attach a bunch of short pieces between the stations and have them line up with the existing lines of the stations. Not sure what else I can do...

 

What stringers?

 

These ones. They are used when you do vertical foam (that doesn't need bead and cove). No sanding the hull planks fair and you just heat the core cell to bend it. Pretty easy, if you can get the mold set up, which I'm stuck on...

 

No the system works just fine when cut with the right tools.

 

You mean Battens looks like you have plenty of room to let 3/4 x 1 1/2" strips in your frames for using full sheets,but you have to fasten core from the back side and 1" foam needs a good push down. I use #14 screws they get a good bite.

 

I havent tried either method (bead and cove strip plank/ vertical strips) yet but I have spoken to a builder who has built trimarans in both methods and he definately recomends vertical strips.
Longer mould prep but much quicker (less glue joins) and easier (bigger planks) and less FAIRING (so I'm told)
Mould battens dont need scarfing just simple butt joints with butt straps on the outer side, easy if you cut the notches on the frames before standing them on the strong back, probably not so easy once the frames are standing
Hope this helps, DAVE

 

I'm very much leaning toward vertical strips, but how can I install 3/4" battens on the mold when the sides of the mold are less than 1" thick?

 

I'm very much leaning toward vertical strips, but how can I install 3/4" battens on the mold when the sides of the mold are less than 1" thick?

 

Add gorilla glue and deadwood at the thin areas to enhance screw holding and eliminate distortion from working with too thin a piece. Think of a board on board fence to demonstrate the geometry.

 

Wow! That looks pretty good Hoyt. Special thanks for taking the time to draw that out and scan it in. This will work perfectly, I think. I have plenty of scrap around from the large cutouts. Is there an instant glue I should use, or is that how gorilla glue works? I have tightbond glue I used to butt join the 2x6's for the strongback. Maybe a few screws could do the trick to hold the tightbond in place while it sets up, then just leave them in.

 

This is what I was talking about. Where the curvature is larger than the thickness, where you end up with part of an arc for the cove and bead instead of a semicircle. What I was referring to above with the Grizzly 'fingernail' bits.

 

Or shoot them fast with a nailgun.. some 40mm nails are ok

SamSam.. those boards in your pic.. see you what's wrong with them

 

I just found this, you've probably seen this site.

http://www.amateurboatbuilding.com/articles/howto/strip-plank/vertical_strip.html

 

No, I don't. What is wrong with them?

 

I can build much quicker with bead and cove plus it is like self fairing, very minimal setup and with the A-600 1" you could go 30" on center with the frames.