Spray on fairing material?

We're down to the fairing stage on an express style sportfish and have got the hull sides pretty nice. The last thing we sprayed was a "high build" primer from systems 3, which doesn't seem enough mils to get it to sand flat with the fairing boards. I know guys like Buddy Davis and Jarrett sand their boats and get awsome results, how do they do it? As much as we have grow to hate sanding, we are perfectionist and will keep at it in order to be able to use a gloss paint. My thought was to spray a fairing compound around 50-75 mils and board it some more. Any suggestions??

Still dazed, but mostly confused

Chris

 

I read a post recently by someone that used a notched trowel, such as is used for spreading adhesive, to achive a high build, allowed that layer to harden and went back over the ridges with a smooth trowel and filled the gaps. Adhesive trowels are available from 1/32x1/32 notches on up. Low tech but seems like it would work.

 

Ssor,
Yes we use the notch method when first getting the boat straightened out , it works pretty good. Now we want to get it really, really flat. I think by using a spray on high build material (if it exsists) we could achieve our goal. Thanks

Chris

 

Capt.
Check over on the materials page.
http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/showthread.php?t=6505
Clark T. has ben researching the same question and has found a product that sounds good. I've been meaning to ask him what info he recieved from the company. Mabey you can bring it out with your inquiry..
Regards
Bob C.

 

nassaw
Saw the posts you suggested but I think the spray primer you are using might be the ticket for us. Clark Ts' product might not be compatable with the epoxy we are using on the hull. It probably is but, sounds almost too thick. The object here is to build up the surface one more time, then get it to 220 before the final finish. Is this primer easy to sand and how about the smell? We share our building with another business and if we use polyester or spray stuff like imron they freak out (go figure) Thats why we ended up using all epoxy based materials on this project, the cost is getting brutal!
Thanks for the input
Chris

 

Hey Capt.
Duratec is a real user freindly product. It sprays easily and sets up within a few hours. It sands just as easy. I found it best to cut with 20% MEK solvent and be sure to screen into the paint cup as any paint. Does have a distinct odor when spraying and I recommend a tc23 or better mask when applying. The odor dissapates soon after the paint is applied. I usually keep a couple of box fans running in the shop when spraying. I put a square sheet of that charcoal furnace filter on them and it clears the air quickly. Can't wait till spring so we can turn the heat off and open he doors. I'll post Duratecs site below. I believe they have an application guide listed
http://www.duratec1.com/listing.html#Duratec%20Products%20-%20Composite%20Marine%20Applications
Regards
Bob C.

 

Bob C,
THANKS! That is exactly what I need! I found that they offer a spray fairing primer as well as a high build primer. I'll just have to spray it after hours or on Sunday. Do you have any problems\ concerns about spraying over system 3 epoxy? Of course we will sand or grind the surface (blush removal) .
Thanks again and keep warm!

Chris

 

Capt.
The Blue stuff I use is the Fairing primer. Its a VE product and I've had no problems getting it to stick to any surface. Ive sprayed the stuff right on gelcoat and got a great bond. As any application. Surface prep is critical but I'm sure you know by the sounds of the finish your looking for. What grade of paper do you plan to take the primer down to before paint and what have you chosen for the final coat? I've also adopted the autobody plan to spray at the end of the day. Much easier, Less people moving around and after shooting I just clean up and walk away for the night. Makes for a clean start on the next day.
I have a small page put together of a helm station I installed. You can see the primer saves allot of time in the finish stages.
http://www.geocities.com/TheTropics/Shores/1748/index19helm.html

Regards
Bob C.

 

Bob C.
I'm sold on the Durotec!! I am using west 410 to straighten out some rough spots and joints. Plan on spraying the durotec 1799-051 then sand to 220. I think thats what systems 3 needs to bite, have to check the can again. We are going to use system 3 two part waterborne linear polyurethane. We tried it on a bow pulpit this week and it came out pretty good. The only drawback I see is that it takes forever to flash (2 hours). Since I have the patience of a 6 year old I put a few sags in it , by not letting it flash. I will say this, when this stuff finally dried (3-4 days) it was as hard as rock. I wanted to wet sand a mark out and ended up using 600 to barely cut the finish. Good points are almost no smell at all ,hard finish,nice gloss and you can top coat with clear.Bad part is it looks like it will forever to get it painted! High solvent paints, although the stink like crazy ,flash fast . Start at 8:00 be done by 10:00 coffee!
Thanks for the tips and input
Chris

 

Hey Capt.
Just wanted to pass some info. WE had a chance to spray the Duratc 1799-005 gray. Handles much different than the Blue. Sprays and looks like Petit 2 part High build primer and sands about as hard. Gets a sheen on the surface which once is cut seems to sand easier. Will be great for a final primer coat before paint. I also wanted to mention when we 1st started with the 1799-051. applying allot of primer with a #3 tip caused moisture in the lines. This showed up during 1st sand as small pinholes in the surface. We only had small water seperators at the compressor and 1 close to the gun. We researched refrigerated water seperators and found them to cost from $400. to $2500. All what your pocket book could afford. I came up with a simple soloution. I keep a few extra water filters in the back storage at my restaurant. I refit the ends for air and took the filter out to backroll with paper towels. They fit fairly well and a few wraps aroung do the trick I keep it close to the gun with a short goodyear 100% rubber hose which is dedicated to just spraying
Hope this info helps out. I'll post a photo of the filter below to give an idea what it looks like

 

:idea:Hello, thank you for the interesting comments on Duratc and your good idea on using paper towels.
I am trying to get some help on how to cleare coat, high build using Urathane products on Ostrich Eggs. We export to over 16 countries and used to use a very long and time sapping way of coating with Modge ( some 18 coats by sponge brush ) have run some tests and found that Durathane K works very well in high build and easy sanding but the coat in South Africa is high, is there anyone with ideas how I might coat the eggs and finally end up with a hard durable sheen on the eggs?
Thank you Ant

 

Mix q cells with your 2 pot high build undercoats and spray with a pressure pot !! each coat change the color you put on !! dont sand through the base coat . You should be able to build 1.5 mils at a coat you spray on . The final coat leave the q cells out and use straight undercoat but do 90% of the sanding before it goes completely hard . :idea:

 

Capt Chris, As we speak I have 5 guys long boarding round the clock a 35' plug.

http://www.workboats.eu/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=8&Itemid=9

We are starting spraying UPOL 'Reface' which is polyester based similar to Duratec but alot cheaper and a bit softer. We will then finish with several coats of Duratec Grey Primer before buffing to a gloss.

I will need to get another sperator installed on the airline tomorrow morning, as you have pointed out it is easy to get contaminant & water in the gun which I remember doing last time we did a plug.

So off to the shop tomorrow !


Good Luck
Neville
Scotland

 

Thanks Neville

 

I am curious to know why the guys are laying the glass across the hull and not long ways ??
Also if you persist with laying it across why not start from the bow and go to the stern ? :?::idea:.