Buccaneer 24 Trimaran

BTW- check out the results at "regattatimeinabaco.com"- There is at least one Crowther 31 that can still get around a race course. B

 

Looked like a fun race series Bruce.
I notice the Corsair 28R did very well.
I raced on one here until it went down to Tasmania.

 

I'm interested in building and installing wing mast on my b24? Has someone else triad it?

 

After my experience with the Lock Crowther "Typhoon" (A Class cat), I would say one would work very well on the B24. The Cat had a Glass/foam sandwich wingmast which was relatively light and very efficient.
It cleaned up the field in the 1973 USA A class championships in Florida winning all the three races on both elapsed and handicap times.

 

bonjour Akaroa, (this area was an early NZ French settlement) Miranda has a modified small wing which is the original masthead spar with the mastheada mess removed and a 3/4 hounds fitting implemented instead, the area between mast track and spar filled in with lightweight filler, then glassed so the mast becomes tear drop shaped, a spanner and male/female bearing at mast base .... and there's your small wing mast.

 

oldsailor7, do you have scantlings, sections info on the glass mast?

 

No. Unfortunately all the specs are long gone. I do have some pics though.

I'll see if I can find them and put them up.

 

Gary.
I never tire of seeing pics of "Miranda". An outstanding version of the B24.
Those sloping transoms are so easy to do during construction.

Incidently I have found a spare copy of the plans, if anybody wants them.

 

I like youre idea Gary but the mast of my boat is not suitable for that.

Oldsailer7 would you know where to find some building info/plans fore a wingmast?

 

sorry oldsailer you are talking about plans from the mast of the typhoon.
Yes i'm interested.

 

Try this wing mast out Akaroa. You could add a couple of sections to make it a metre (or whatever) taller.

 

Thanks Gary, this forum is to efficient

 

samnz,
I fond the attachment of the beamstemplate and converted with a auto desk program, but i can't open it propely. Is it posseble to send it again?
thanks Willem

 

wing mast build

If you want to go ahead I'd suggest you use 4mm ply, cut into 140mm strips, then scarph and glue them together to make your 9 metre mast length I beam, coat both sides with epoxy (lay out some plastic strips to lay the wet side on) then cut out the frames, also in 4mm. Remember they need slots cut for the thin timber leading and trailing edge stringers plus elongated holes cut into them to carry your halyards. When they are shaped and epoxy coated, cut them in half where the I beam goes through, then glue and cove the front frames vertically to the I beam, along with the leading edge stringer. When that cures, flip the mast (lie it against a wall) and do the same with the trailing edge frames and stringer. There's your skeleton. Then with 3mm ply cut and scarph into strips, say 450mm, enough to bend around the frames to the trailing edge stringer, glue and staple both lengths to the leading edge stringer, let it cure overnight then next day epoxy coat the inside of the 3mm skin, epoxy glue the edge of the frames and trailing edge (make sure you've got your false halyards in, fishing line is good) then bend the skins over and staple them to the trailing edge.
You don't want the inside coating to harden, otherwise you'll never be able to
bend the stiffened skin. You can do this on your own but another pair of hands or two makes it easier. You want the frames to have a good layer of glue on the edges and if you tap along the skin, you'll be able to find the frames and staple them too, if necessary, but usually, if you tension both sides together and staple them to the trailing stringer, the frame glue will make contact with the skin. There's your mast.
The mast spanner needs to be strong, but light and you have to cut holes for the halyards and sheave blocks and positions for your cam cleats, also cleats for the spanner rotation sheets - but they can also be placed on your main beam if you want to. There are no rules, whatever you like. The trailing edge of the spanner where your mast control sheets go through needs to be reinforced with carbon fibre - there are quite savage, fast loads there when you gybe.
The main halyard sheave at mast top can to be set in afterward or before you bend the skins around - it is easier to just use a simple sheave, make a small plywood box to contain halyard from jumping sheave, then reinforce the outer mast skin, slide through your axle, then glue and glass coat the area. Needs to be solid, don't want it grinding lower from halyard loads. For the headsail (also offwind sails) I just use a delrin/stainless eye. Mast rotation makes normal headsail halyards fray against the sheave box sides - the eye works perfectly though.
The mast base bearings are male/female and the position can be either at the
leading edge or in line with the I beam. This area also needs beefing up with
carbon to handle compression loads.
I forgot to say that from the hounds to masthead, the wing tapers not only fore and aft, but sideways too - so the I beam and frames will narrow in this area.
For the hounds you make a rounded edge sort of beak shape out of wood or a
couple of layers of 4mm ply glued face to face and then glue the beak to the
leading edge of the mast and cove the connection edges with glue so you can run the uni directional carbon in a curve, no sharp or hard corners. You run the carbon tows, like in the drawing, so you spread them round the beak and up the front and the side of the mast over a distance of say, a couple of hand spans.
When you have built up half a dozen layers, let it cure then drill out a larger
hole for your shackle pin fitting near the end of the beak. Remember all the
rigging loads will be concentrated at the bottom and front of that hole so make sure you have a good buildup of carbon there. Then fill that hole with epoxy glue - put some tape each side to stop the glue running out. When that cures, re drill the same size as your shackle pin. The stainless pin is now protected from contact with the carbon so there will be no electrolysis problems. When finished spread some lightweight filler over the carbon tows and when hard, lightly sand - there will be slight bulging there but once smoothed it will look fine. Far better, lighter and stronger than a whole lot of metallic junk up there. You can build your rigging "chainplates" in the same manner. I've done this for decades and never had any problems.

 

wing mast build

Thank you Gary, that is the most detailed mast build details I have seen. B