Recommended Mooring Block weight?

Discussion in 'All Things Boats & Boating' started by SpiritWolf15x, Aug 11, 2010.

  1. SpiritWolf15x
    Joined: Apr 2010
    Posts: 194
    Likes: 1, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 15
    Location: Vancouver, Canada

    SpiritWolf15x Senior Member

    Hello everyone, I have a 7 tonne boat I'm needing to build a mooring block for. What I am wondering is how heavy do I make said block and what do I attach the mooring ball to said block with (ie: Heavy rope, chain, rope and chain, ect...)?

    Any and all input is greatly appreciated.

    -Wolf
     
  2. waikikin
    Joined: Jan 2006
    Posts: 2,440
    Likes: 179, Points: 73, Legacy Rep: 871
    Location: Australia

    waikikin Senior Member

    http://www.ecan.govt.nz/publications/General/MooringBookletfhmx.pdf

    I made a block to the scheme on this site, its probably the best I've seen online, you've gotta find out whats been used with success localy, a mooring contractor from around where you come from would be best, for mine a mate with a crane truck & an employer with a worthy barge dropped it for me, it's no joke & easy to get hurt without the right gear. Regards from Jeff.:cool:
     
  3. SpiritWolf15x
    Joined: Apr 2010
    Posts: 194
    Likes: 1, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 15
    Location: Vancouver, Canada

    SpiritWolf15x Senior Member


    Shoot, I need something that weighs upwards to a tonne?! I was hoping this would be something for along the lines of 150-200 lbs, something I could could bring down with a car and move into place with my 16' speed boat.
     
  4. anthony goodson
    Joined: Mar 2007
    Posts: 451
    Likes: 19, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 256
    Location: Dorset UK & Murcia Spain

    anthony goodson Senior Member

    You haven't included any detail of the ground ,or tidal conditions in your question.Without these, an accurate answer is impossible. Mud ,shingle, sand, stone, rock, dries out at low tide ? etc
     
  5. alan white
    Joined: Mar 2007
    Posts: 3,730
    Likes: 123, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 1404
    Location: maine

    alan white Senior Member

    Always ask the locals what to do. My guess is a rocky bottom would require a 3000 lb granite block for your boat. A mud bottom is easy. Use a mushroom mooring of 150-250 lbs (every supplier of mushroom anchors has a weight guide).
     
  6. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
    Posts: 16,790
    Likes: 1,714, Points: 123, Legacy Rep: 2031
    Location: Milwaukee, WI

    gonzo Senior Member

    If you use iron, the rule is 15% of the displacement of the boat. With cement or other less dense materials, you got to add to compensate accordingly.
     
  7. CDK
    Joined: Aug 2007
    Posts: 3,324
    Likes: 148, Points: 63, Legacy Rep: 1819
    Location: Adriatic sea

    CDK retired engineer

    Materials: stainless steel bar, welded to the reinforcement in the concrete, heavy ss shackle and a spliced line with a metal eye insert. Once in place you don't want to go there anymore for repairs.

    The size totally depends on the bottom. On flat rock the block or slab is always too small, in sand or mud you need a cube because it digs in better than a slab. Like Alan said, ask the locals.

    With some rope and empty jerrycans you can move any weight in the water.
     
  8. peter radclyffe
    Joined: Mar 2009
    Posts: 1,454
    Likes: 72, Points: 58, Legacy Rep: 680
    Location: europe

    peter radclyffe Senior Member

    an old engine
     
  9. Submarine Tom

    Submarine Tom Previous Member

    I second Alan White, a mushroom anchor as it's probably silt/mud/sand.

    If it's rock, have a diver put in a rock anchor, or three, and chain them together to centre (drill, epoxy etc.)

    You'll have to service it every two to three years due to corrosion.

    -Tom
     
  10. WestVanHan
    Joined: Aug 2009
    Posts: 1,373
    Likes: 56, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 746
    Location: Vancouver

    WestVanHan Not a Senior Member

    My 'water access only" cabin came with mooring.

    I dove it to find a Detroit 12v71 with a rod sticking out of the block sitting on the bottom.

    3200 pounds-cheap,totally degrease it and you're done.
     
  11. Petros
    Joined: Oct 2007
    Posts: 2,934
    Likes: 148, Points: 63, Legacy Rep: 1593
    Location: Arlington, WA-USA

    Petros Senior Member

    you had better check local permitting requirements. I know here in Washington state you can get a petty large fine if you do not permit your mooring anchor. There are a number of simple but important requirements for the sake of protecting the sea floor from damage caused by dragging a chain around on the bottom, and to prevent it from becoming a navigation hazard. IT is not that any of the requirements are difficult, it is just they have good reason, with long experience with it, for having them done a certain way.

    For a really large vessel I think the simplest thing to do is install a large helical or auger type anchor if you have a sandy bottom. Only weighs about 50 lbs, but it must be installed by rotating it down deep into the bottom. they can hold up to 10,000 lbs or more, depending on the size. It can be installed by hand from a floating platform with a long ratchet type handle, or with air compressor driven handle.

    Here is a company that makes these anchors specifically for mooring boats, but there are many other types that can be adapted to work for you:

    http://www.helixmooring.com/
     
  12. anthony goodson
    Joined: Mar 2007
    Posts: 451
    Likes: 19, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 256
    Location: Dorset UK & Murcia Spain

    anthony goodson Senior Member

    Or a new Chinese one
     
  13. anthony goodson
    Joined: Mar 2007
    Posts: 451
    Likes: 19, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 256
    Location: Dorset UK & Murcia Spain

    anthony goodson Senior Member

    Here we use an old large truck tyre ,placed on a board with the beads wedged apart ,then filled with concrete ,an iron bar is cast in it with a hole in the centre of the concrete to attach a swivel. A loop is taken in the riser chain and another much smaller tyre acts as a snubber. This is the economy version but it works ,partly because you never have to lift or drag the tyre ,you can roll it. Our moorings dry out ,but I liked CDK's idea of jerrycans if yours doesn't.Tyres suck down very well in mud and once covered ,corrosion only occurs on the riser where there is oxygen in the water.
     
  14. CDK
    Joined: Aug 2007
    Posts: 3,324
    Likes: 148, Points: 63, Legacy Rep: 1819
    Location: Adriatic sea

    CDK retired engineer

    Anthony, when I came here 16 years ago and needed a mooring, there was an enormous concrete slab on the pier. A fisherman made it years before but abandoned it because he knew he'd never get it in the right place.
    So the locals grinned and said yes, you can have it if you think you can move it.....

    12 jerrycans did the job.
     

  15. jonr
    Joined: Sep 2008
    Posts: 721
    Likes: 11, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 57
    Location: Great Lakes

    jonr Senior Member

    Be sure to calculate that concrete loses 1/2 of its weight under water.

    It would be interesting if you could pour a mooring in place - picture a large plastic bag on the bottom with a tube leading to the surface. Just inflate the bag with concrete and then stick a piece of rebar down the tube.

    An auger is probably hard to beat from a weight standpoint.
     
Loading...
Forum posts represent the experience, opinion, and view of individual users. Boat Design Net does not necessarily endorse nor share the view of each individual post.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Your circumstances or experience may be different.