epoxy 17 bucks a kilo epoxy freight included!

I just wonder if anyone can tell me if this offer is a good deal?
Regarding the epoxy is ep918 yacht glue import from china to sweden. I really wants to hear about your opinnion.

Does anyone have experience out of this material?
As the dealer told me it is a popular produkt for Asian boat builders, I do som research of this produkt.

 

Depends on the quantity you buy, if it´s a good deal. I do´nt know the 918 formulation personally.

You may find it helpful to compare with a European supplier, here:
http://shop.r-g.de/Epoxydharze/EP-Laminierharze/Epoxydharz-L-20-Aero.html

the L20 is a GL certified resin for aircraft production.

Regards
Richard

 

Oh my godness!
If the quality is lookalike then the offer I recieved from the company is awsome. As it is increased price comparing to the link you did sent to me.
Even if the price is cheaper from china the shipping cost is also included.

So the price is not bad and was containing 40 kilos.

I am waiting to see if anyone does have experience of this EP.

Else they have told me I am able to try it.

 

Maybe the price will be someway decreased with larger shippings also.
As this small shipping is simplier to send by express then with boat.

If this quality is good maybe my boat design and boatbuilding career starts here for real.

 

Here you can have a 20 + 10 liter package with 270€ + shipping. The shop is in Finland.
http://www.arsalin.fi/kauppa/index.php

I am going to give it a try and I know some Finnish (home)builders have used it without any obvious problems.

 

Definetively the Chinese resin / hardener is not in compliance with any class rules. Question is, do you need that? There are first quality resins / hardeners (the latter is the far more important part) on the European market at the same price as the Chinese product. Even at the shop I mentioned.

Regards
Richard

 

At some point every user of larger quantities of epoxy has a problem. If your supplier is in China, who do you talk to about your problem? The price is better than the higher priced brands but not so great compared to many other sources in the US.

 

Many many thanks for this information guys!

This thread gave me more information that I was hoping to get.
The opportunities have grown. And also I recieved a few more offers from people looks like really knowing what they are talking about.

Apex1 you seems to really know what you are talking about and I think many many of us has participated to learn from you.

As a beginner hobby designer I do not need to have to get complience for an class rules. but I do hope that I someday will be able to build after their rules for my own designs. At this point I am a private person and don´t have a company by myself. Also I am unemployed at the moment. For the metal hulls projekts I have participated I do have some experience from DNV. As they where our control agents for the ships.

At least it does looks like I am able to build my little sailing canoe without empty my familys wallet.

As you maybe already know I did build a smaller boat prototype to see if I was in the right track. I was and the launching went well with succes.
So now I will continue with a smaller boat that will be some kind of usefull and feels like giving me a lot of fun.

 

In that case..............

get the cheapest resin you can find! But make sure it is 100% solids (no diluent). There is NO difference in quality, just different formulations. Some are thinner, some thicker, some are more, some less transparent etc.
Some have amine blush, which can be a pain. It makes the application of the next layer burdensome.
The hardener though makes a big difference! Take care to use the right one for your application.
Almost ALL hardeners with a long pot life need to be postcured at really high temperatures to provide the full strength. (in general these are the stronger / better hardeners)

When ever possible do your layup in one go!!!
If you must engage all friends for a whole day, do so. The "wet in wet" layup makes your piece becoming one single molecule when there is a chemical bond between the layers. Wet does not mean really wet, just do´nt let the layer cure completely (surface should be tacky and soft)
A mechanical bond (as you would get when the former layer is completely cured and you have to sand the surface), is much weaker!

Compare the properties of the different hardeners on the website I posted, that tells you something.

Regards
Richard

 

Then I do have to thank you once again! haha!

As i was reading about a guy who did rib up the hulls shape. He did put a layer let it dry then he did not sand the surface. Instead he did scraping the surface by the backside of a metalsaw blade and continued to put the layer after layer until he was satisfied with the result of the surface.

Of course now I will try to put the layer in one go. Because of course I want the result to be as good as possible with whatever I do use.

Also I am able to ask about the amine blush.

If not someone else will give me this ep for free I will give this one a try.

Of course I will show the result here when I am ready to start. So anyone interested in follow the procedure are able to do so.

 

I beg to differ, there can be a huge difference in quality, if strength and performance in a marine environment is expected from your epoxy. Generally, you get what you pay for, so if it's half the cost, you may be getting stuff half the strength too.

Especially resins coming out of China, where the only thing you can truly count on, is no guarantee that it will be what they say it is. This is across the board from food items, through every industry and particularly true of high end goods, which they have a terrible record on. The only controls they have in place to protect consumers are the lost profits if they get caught. Hell, they can't even make reasonable plywood and you want to trust your yacht to cheap epoxy? Reconsider your options would be my strong recommendation.

 

Sorry for being too sloppy in my comment!

When I said "the cheapest" I did NOT include Chinese stuff! I (in my mind) thought about European suppliers. There it will be hard to find poor quality resin. At least I did not in the past 20 years. But of course you can find hardeners with extremely different properties.

 

Okej thanks to you all!

As they will send me a test package for free. Anyway I am concidering to test it.

Actually I have found out that someone in us and also German are allready importing this. I will try to figure out what they are using it for. And also how succesful or less succesful they are.

 

I posted this in the wrong place.
I would not use Chinese epoxy. You have no idea what is in it. They put deadly chemicals in sheetrock they sold us. Sent over dog food that killed many of our pets and killed over 1,000 of their own people by putting milamene in milk. Buy at your own risk.............................................

 

So then I answer the question even in this thread.
How do we as customer know where the Epoxy is produced?
As a oem company is allowed to import epoxy from anywhere and fill it over in a new can then tell everybody that it actually is from their own country.
So If buy an epoxy from example sweden maybe actually is produced in another country.
How can we as customer be sure where the product does actually come from?