epoxy v resorcinol

We have 26 Degrees right now. If I had some wood strips laminated, down in the barn, in this cold, which would I use to make a laminated Beam or side of a boat?
Resorcinal or Epoxy?

 

Neither it seems .
Without stoking the furnace.

 

Absolutly, I aint goin down there when its this cold.
I wonderd which would be the best in cooler climate working.

 

are we're talking here celsius or fahrenheit?

regarding resorcinol and the appropriate temperature...
there should be 2 different types on the market... one which needs 70° F to cure and a 'winter'-resorcinol which only requires 50° F...
the reason me using "Fartenheit" - i got this info from an US-page...

 

Bf,you basically need as much clamping pressure as you can get,when we used resorcinal for cold molding we used staples which obviously doesnt give the pressure that you get from clamping as in laminating a frame but it is enough,what you need is good solid intimate contact which you get when bending reasonably thick sawn veneers over a form.The only faliure i have ever seen of a resorcinal joint was when dismantling the transom of a Grand Banks 42 which had vertical framing with 1 layer of fairly thin, maybe 3/8" followed by a horizontal layer of mahogany planking more than twice as thick,obviously they bent at different rates so the only place they touched was at each vertical frameing member where they were screwed, it was a building flaw not a resorcinal problem.
thudpucker,when using any adhesive you need to control your working enviroment and heat as needed.There are many epoxy formulations with some working down into the 30s F but i find that giving it a good shot of heat for a few hours at the begining of the cure helps and i try to do any glueups in the morning when the temperature is trending up rather then down and i can locally heat for most of the day.We often have boats out in the yard that we can heat in while we are working but we dont want to leave heat on while we are not there for safety.
Steve.