The AWLGRIP Knowledge challenge

Akzo-Nobel has a division in China, so there should be no problem getting Awl-Grip in China.

Jimbo

 

Hong Kong only as of date....they can supply to China but not with stock.

 

wetsanding/polishing/buffing awlgrip after spraying?

Hi all,

I just completed the deck of my Westail. I used Oyster White Awlgrip. It came out really good...lots of shine, depth, etc....except for a few places where i have some runs...maybe 3" across in a couple of places. I also have a dull "stripe" where it looks like I forgot to spray. Trouble is, I don't have enough paint to respray so I was hoping I could sand, polish and buff out the couple of drips. I have enough paint to mask off the areas, sand it down, and do a touchup respray. Anyone have any insight?

The paint was put on 30 hours ago. Thanks!!

 

You have two options:

One is to sand and buff the runs out and the other is to sand the runs out then re-paint only the sanded run spots then (after cure) buff off the overspray left by re-painting the spots.

It would take at least 2000 words to adequately describe either one of those processes in detail to a novice, and you would still need a very practiced hand to successfully pull off either task.

If the runs have not 'solvent popped' (have little tiny gas bubbles in them), then either option is still open to you. If solvent popping is present, then only the sand/paint/buff method will still work.

The sand and buff method definitely takes more skill, both with the sander and the buffer. The sand/paint/buff method is easier but does involve some re-painting.

Either way, the most important agenda item is to get the run area truly flat again, so that a 'ghost' of the run will not be visible in the final finish. Many pros scrape their runs off with a new razor blade with a rapid side to side motion that makes the uninitiated wince and yell; but it works!

I'd recommend sanding with 320 or 400 grit abrasive using a rigid block and careful hand so as not to go through the paint, re-shoot the spots with a small detail gun (DO NOT try this with a full size gun!) , perhaps follow up the paint application with a 'melt down coat' of highly reduced paint, then buff of the resulting overspray after cure.

If all this sounds like gobbledygook to you, then this is probably not a task you can pull off. You may be able to find a car painter who'd be willing to help out; they do blends all the time. Tell him to do a 'solvent blend' of the spots. He'll likely know exactly what that means.


Jimbo

 

Thanks for the reply Jimbo.

I don't have any solvent popping. No bubbles, etc. I was reduced down to about 35%.

I'm familiar with wetsanding, polishing, buffing...but not with a polyester lpu. I think that I'll take your advice and go the route of touch up spraying. Thankfully I have a detail gun to use.

For the issue of overspray, if I razor the drip down, sand to 400, and mask/paper off the surrounding areas, I'll be left with a thin stripe where the taped area that I'd have to polish and blend.,is that the overspray that you mention, or do you mean I would touch up the surrounding area without masking off the nonrepair areas?

 

There really should be NO MASKING! If you mask anywhere within a foot of the outer limits of the blend, you are completely defeating the purpose of the blend, and will never achieve a blend at all. If you want to mask adjacent surfaces that are not the subject of the repair, then go ahead, but you could just as easily wipe them all down with denatured alcohol immediately after spraying to get rid of the tiny amount of overspray that might fall on them.

But definitely NO MASKING around a blend!

Jimbo

 

Progress Report

Just wanted to post an update almost done, should splash tomorrow With any luck and the blessings of the weather GODS).

I've posted some new pic's in my Gallery, (Grady's gallery) or search with keyword awlgrip.

 

Grady, all the best wishes & weather for the launch, looks terrific mate, from Jeff.

 

spraying awlgrip

someone told me to mix awlgrip and put it inside the fridge and paint the next day can someone help me please

 

you can do that for some paint thats left over and stop in from cureing over night that way and re spray it in the morning but thats only for touch up or a one time deal
the instructions for mixing are on the can just follow what it says

 

Some of the key points to a successful paint application lay in the visconsity of the paint mix, and the amount of reducer in the mix. All in consideration of atomization and flow. (KEY)
Not sure what info your getting but cold paint is not going to help. I have heard that awlgrip will have troble curing below 55 degrees but only for short periods of time unless you container is completely air tight
Hope that helps

 

HY guys thought I would surface for a sec. and remind you'all who started that rummor. Fond memories of a colleague that has not posted for over a year. I personally would not use Awl Grip that has been slow curring in a fridge. Not with all the contortions we all go through to get the right consistency for whatever app we are doing (spray or roll and tip). If you have a little left over chalk it up to experience and adjust your mix quantity next time 'round.

 

thanks for the info,i also want to know how many hours afetr primer is apply i can wait to spray paint awlgrip

 

You guys are sucking me back in.
You need to sand the primer before top coating. That should answer the drying time question

 

I miss that Texas transplant