Weed eater engine conversion

Discussion in 'DIY Marinizing' started by Ward, Jun 2, 2003.

  1. Lastflight
    Joined: Jul 2009
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    Location: Michigan

    Lastflight New Member

    Wow, sounds like a pain in the butt. I have been on the fence for a while on whether or not to take on this same project. Your experience makes me think I might wait and pursue other optioins.
    Thanks for the info and keep us posted on how the final product works!
     
  2. portacruise
    Joined: Jun 2009
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    portacruise Senior Member

    How do the long tail shaft section bearings hold up? The older models used wooden bearings with lots of grease under pressure. But I was always afraid the wood would swell and cause the shaft to sieze up...

    Porta


     
  3. Cosmonot
    Joined: Oct 2009
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    Location: Anchorage, AK

    Cosmonot New Member

  4. poule d'eau
    Joined: Nov 2009
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    poule d'eau Junior Member


    All of the honda clones I ever saw would not inter change any "wear" parts. Mostly carberator and ignition parts. Parts for these clone motors (honda clone) have always seemed to be hard to come by, then pricey when you do find them. If you have a particular "clone" motor that parts will interchange on I am all ears.
     
  5. poule d'eau
    Joined: Nov 2009
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    poule d'eau Junior Member

    Deuce set up ?

    After a pot of coffee and some looking and reading. The "off shore" stuff seems to be some what hard to get parts for as far as servicing and PM work. So, with this in mind.
    What do you guys think about a twin set up using the 30+cc motors? I would think it would provide as much if not more thrust than the single 52. It would be easier to find parts for the most part. The smaller cc motors are in high abundance. If you strained one of the little devils, just pull it off and throw a new one on, short of carb and ignition work.
    The down fall is that two is not always better than one. Having fooled and toyed with a bit of "deuces" in the past. It can make twice the headaches.
    I have not checked the weight of the two smaller ones against the larger motor. I am looking at this for either my 12' 6" 4 Rivers and/or my old 14" j boat.
    Like I say, just a thought and more of a project for next year.

    However the HP mods that John did to his motor does impress me.
     
  6. Mark Wo
    Joined: Dec 2007
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    Mark Wo Senior Member

    I don't think it would work

    Now I'm not saying to not go for it cause it would make an interesting project and seomthing to talk/brag about i the swamp. My only concern would be that 2 30 cc motors would still not be abel to push the boat. The 31 cc mud motor I made worked fine for around 15-20 seconds then it would bog down and die. I don't see how two motors would change this. Each motor would still need to spin the prop against the drag of the water and I don't think these smaller motors have enough torque to do so. Wouldn't matter if you had 10 30cc motors on the back.

    Just my opinion based wholly on gut feel - no science what so ever involved in the comments above.

    Mark
     
  7. poule d'eau
    Joined: Nov 2009
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    poule d'eau Junior Member

    Mark, reading back through this thread and saw it was brought up a couple of years back. It didn't go anywhere so it either wasn't tried or didn't work. Deuces can be an issue and more times than not cause headaches.
    I will start to gather parts NOW and then maybe by April or so I will have all of it to assemble.
    BTW, the gas tanks fuel neck sticks staright out rather than tilted up on those 52cc motors that I have seen pics of. Seems they would leak or spit fuel.
    jeff
     
  8. hoytedow
    Joined: Sep 2009
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    hoytedow Carbon Based Life Form

    unless all 10 were driving the same prop shaft.
     
  9. GOOSE316
    Joined: Sep 2009
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    Location: Basehor, KS

    GOOSE316 Junior Member

    Custom Throttle Calbles

    I figured out an easier way to get the throttle cable ends that you need to attach on triggers, or carbs.

    My specific issue was needed a long tubular end on the carb side, and a Round Ball type post on the trigger side...(stihl trigger).

    You can get some solder that you would normally use on copper plumbing pipes and melt the solder in a some what glob on the actual throttle cable...Once it hardens you can file or sand in to whatever shape you require.

    I used a galvanized piece of material, and cut out a template for what I was needing...then inserted the wire, and soldered onto the galvanized material. Once it cooled I separated the now soldered wire and filed down to what I needed.

    I will say you need to use flux just like you use on copper tubing...so the solder will stick to the wire...

    Just what I did... I got tired of hunting around for little pieces.

    I also tried melting a duck weight (led) to recreate it but it didn't get hard enough , also tried a fishing weight.

    The tin solder is hard as a rock.
     
  10. GOOSE316
    Joined: Sep 2009
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    Location: Basehor, KS

    GOOSE316 Junior Member

    Paraprop.... what would shipping to the us involve...customs etc
     
  11. Paraprop
    Joined: Oct 2009
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    Location: Thailand

    Paraprop Junior Member

    One of the forum members has bought 2 units and is testing them now.
    If it works out good for him, he may become my US re-seller. Please allow us some time to sort everything out.

    Thx
    Paraprop
     
  12. GOOSE316
    Joined: Sep 2009
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    Location: Basehor, KS

    GOOSE316 Junior Member

    Done!

    All is left is adjustng handle pitch and killing greenheads.


    I am going to add a CrossBlock on the handle for the WHITE navigation light...that runs on Dcell batteries.
     

    Attached Files:

  13. Cosmonot
    Joined: Oct 2009
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    Cosmonot New Member

    Goose316, looks good. Why did you relocate the fuel tank to the handle? Did you start with a brushcutter or did you build from scratch? Let us know what type of speed/performance you get out of it.
     
  14. GOOSE316
    Joined: Sep 2009
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    Location: Basehor, KS

    GOOSE316 Junior Member

    Couple Things

    This was a monster scooter engine... i posted a few threads back on the issues with them.

    The fuel tank CAP leaks when the cap is under the motor, the cap sticks out to the side and spits fuel when engine running...so i mounted it straight up on the handle so it wouldn't spit or leak... will also allow for a little more fuel to get sucked out... and should be easier to fill.

    Also i am running 89 octane in this, it reduces smoke... 89 octane, and stihl oil..at about a 50:1 or 55:1 mix..
     

  15. poule d'eau
    Joined: Nov 2009
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    Location: kansas

    poule d'eau Junior Member

    fuel tank? At first glance I thought it was one of those on the go urinals:p . Battery box I imagine? Or knowing you a mini fridge;)
     
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