Making drawings

Hi!
I am making the drawings for my boat as follows:
- Using Maxsurf Academic I define the hull form.
- Export cross sections (frames) in *.dxf format.
- Open DXF file with Cad program
- Define constructional details of parts using previous input.

Is it some better way to do this?

I am using the drawings to make ship model, not the real one. My ship will never touch the water. The subject of my interest are traditional wooden fishing boats with sails.

 

Hello Dida,
maybe not a better way, but simpler? I just replied to another post:

Hello Splint,
Hello Brenton,

the easiest way to "produce" a simple hull is "carlson" .Hul imho. It makes hardchines only, but that is not a real obstacle. If you have made a simple model of what you think may roughly fit your needs, save it and import it then in "freeship" there you easily finetune the shape (make it round bilge for example) and export in .dxf or many other "formats" to use from now on the software you are most familiar with.
But one point to mention:
making a nice "design" of a boat has to be seen in the words elementary sense: "drawing a fashionable pice of art" and has nothing in common with the thorough "development" of a seagoing vessel, named "design" as well.
The former is to achieve by every amateur, able to use the appropriate software, the latter has to be done by professionals, NA´s in this case.
Regards
Richard

 

Software for structural elements

I am quite satisfied with Maxsurf Academic when I speak about defining the hull geometry. But I think that I use too much time to make the drawing for cutting the wooden elements (floor and futtocks) for the frame. I have feeling that somewhere exists the software (for lazy people) which can help to produce drawings for structural elements faster.

 

Example

To illustrate what I do here is the photo:



Finally the element looks like this:



Or this frame:

 

Dont know if thats true, I am a absolute amateur if it comes to 3D software. I am still not able to use my CAD programme which I am familiar with since 1992 in 3D mode. But the way I was talking about did help me to achieve the results I need. I have Max, Rhino, Solidworks and some others (was worth a S class Mercedes all together) but still do´nt know what I have to do with it. So I thought to provide a "***** proof" way to achieve a sufficient result.
In this very case: just my two cent (and I think, only AU$ cent).
Nice work btw
Regards
Richard

 

Dida,

Your method of design is exactly the method that I use. My 3D surface software is ProSurf, and I export cross-sections to AutoCad. I have been drafting by computer for about 16 years now, and this system works well for me.

Another way to do design is with more integrated software that combines surface or solids modelling and architectural drawings all in one program. Solidworks is one such program. Some people prefer this, and it may work well in a larger office where a number of designers have input into a vessel design. But I found that such a program was too interconnected and did not offer me the drafting freedom that I wanted. I am just a one-person design office, so it is easy for me to keep my design detail under control. By keeping the architecture and surface modelling separate, I think I am a little more limber in my design work, able to make changes or new features quickly without getting bogged down in interconnecting file management.

Good drafting and architecture always takes time to do right and well. Most people don't realize this. I see a lot of architectural garbage that makes a good draftsman like me want to cry. What few details you show of your drawings look respectable. There are few shortcuts to good design and drafting presentation, so I would not bemoan too much the time that you take. You will seek and find your own comfort level and employ the time-saving tools that best suit you.

Eric

 

I agree with everything eric said above.

On a side note....

I recently designed my own house. Lots of people say that and mean they did a sketch and then gave it to an architectual draftsperson or an architect. But I literally designed my house, produced all the drawings, specified every beam etc. Both the builder and surveyor commented individually that its been at least 15 years since they've seen drawings of a similar quality and were shocked when I provided the drawings printed on A1 Mylar. It seems that like boat design the architectural industry has dummed itself to A3 paper prints. Take some pride in your work when drafting.

 

SIC..

Regards
Richard

 

"...Good drafting and architecture always takes time to do right and well. Most people don't realize this. I see a lot of architectural garbage that makes a good draftsman like me want to cry..."

Best comment I've read all year!

Everyone uses 3D to make things easy for themselves...but all those short cuts in time, mean short cuts in quality, for many without the prerequisite knowdgle in the first place.

 

Its not the shortcuts in time, nor the sc in quality, its the plain lack of knowledge, the hours hands on, the time at the construction plant, the speech with the labourer. Today they know NOTHING. but sell their knowledge as if it was the only religion.
My 2 ct

Richard

 

apex

exactly, hence my comment. These 'people' can only talk in numbers, because that is the language of the computer not a designer. As such do not understand why or where the numbers come from!

Dida

Nice little project, best continue the way you are.
I also make models, but for a different reason. I make my own models for tank testing for resistance calculations. However, i too still make simple 2D templates for fairing the block of wood.

 

Amateur.............

doing it as I do...........

maybe not always the amateur way?
But trial and error is by far the most reliable way we do our "professional" business. The one who disagrees is the one "un" professional.
R
R

 

Well, it is either by the 2D method by hand, or the other extreme a 6-axis CNC machine...i prefer the amateur way....more pleasure, and feel!

 

Thank you for the comments. I will have them in mind and continue to work as I did so far. The longer way, but everything under better control.

 

Dida
when I provided the drawings printed on A1 Mylar.
I use mylar too
Eric I agree
Mr Man in Croatia well done
Are you using Russian White Oak? or more from your Area

SW just gobbles up pc memory, use Rhino Maxsurf but after two years I would say I am 2 on scale 10