The AWLGRIP Knowledge challenge

545 is an epoxy primer. Epoxy resin basically has no expiration date. The curing solutions for epoxies vary a lot, but the one in 545 primer is very stable and will last a long time even after the cans are opened. Just re-seal them tightly and they will be just fine next spring.

Jimbo

 

Thanks Jimbo!

Would you say the same thing about the Awlgrip topcoat?

 

grip...

Roll and tip awlgrip....you guys have any experience with.... cold cure.. Adding a few drops into a mixed up, thinned, catalyzed bucket of grip.... Ive been using it for controlling dust on horizontal surfaces. What mixture do you guys use ??? how many drops... Mikey

 

Awl Grip topcoat bases lasts for many years in tightly sealed cans, even if the cans were previously opened .

But this is most definitely NOT true of the catalyst or converter. It should NOT be opened until ready to use immediately, and unused portions will gel in a few moths, typically, even in tightly re-sealed containers. Unpoened cans of converter may last a couple of years, but this varies a lot with storage temperature, and whether the cans are truly sealed or have tiny leaks, which is often the case.


Jimbo

 

I read early on in this thread that flag blue was a poor color for a hull side. I am ready to paint my Hull G-Line Flag Blue w/ white white acents and the topside F-line Snow White.

I have to spray outdoors but I was able to stack 8 40' containers and cover the top and sides with tarps.

The Gline is only for the hull sides which should not have too much trouble with contamination (I already painted one boat in this manner).

But the topside/deck (even with topcoat accelerator) is a problem. I was thinking of using the F-line for the deck since I can buff out imperfections. Any ideas? (JH pls opt out)

 

Quick word about gelling of converts/catalyst- if you have access to nitrogen, take what you need and immediately inert the void in the can.

This can be done with two small holes1/8" on opposite sides of the can. Put the nitrogen line to one hole and let flow through for 30 seconds. Then seal both holes. Keep cool. This technique worked with epoxy coating in the AF years ago.

Good luck

 

Yes, this works well. The manufacturers use a dry nitrogen sparge when filling the cans at the factory.

Jimbo

 

How come Awl Grip dont come ready to paint on? Why do you have to thin it?

 

I haven't used Awl-grip since 1984 when I painted a 32 santana, has anything changed, do they have better solvents for brushing, and what is the prefered method, spray, roll and tip, are there airless guns that can be used. I used to be in the auto industry I am not new to painting, 24 years ago I was really impressed with the paint when I sprayed the hull and deck.

 

Started rolling on 545 this weekend. I'm making a jump from blue to white so its taking a couple of coats. The 545 rolls pretty thin. I rolled on three coats and sanded with 220 and the undercoating popped up again. I'm going to roll another coat next weekend (or five) .Just wondering if I should continue to coat until purely white or if I should rely on the thicker topcoat to fill up any odd inconsistencies. Thanks

 

The prime needs to be perfect. You will see that the topcoat is much thinner, almost like water, it will not fill anything, be prepared to apply as many as 4 coats of top.

 

This is one of the things that got me away from Awl Grip, Jet Glo and Sterling. I went to Durethane (DU) from PPG back in '93. When this got discontinued back in 2000, PPG did not immediately introduce a replacement, so I went back to 'Grip, Jet Glop and Startling again and just put up with all their nasty habits. PPG finaly replaced Durethane with Delfleet Evolution (FDGH) in 2003. I cannot imagine going back to the big three now as FDGH is superior in every possible metric and even costs less in use.

Jimbo

 

Except they don't make a tipping cat. It is a spray only product, but it is good and I even spec it on some of my jobs.

 

I need help on varnishing before starting to buy stuff...

Hi! I need help to make a very nice varnish mirror finish starting from plywood on to which I glue veneer with ep vaccumed. I'm in Myanmar and can only find one serious brand of ep glue and pu varnish. But these guys sells and are not able to supply real advices...
My process right now is:
- after gluing veneer on substrate, it bleeds through and I'm ok with that
- sand paper 260
- ep laid with brush and mixed with a local polish or xylene (ep1:hardener1: polish1) roughly 120 gsm
- sand paper 260
- ep again same as above
- sand paper 260
- top coat pu with gun, simple one, air pressure 5-7 bars, hole 1.4 mm
-sand paper 400
- top coat ... untill satisfied should I write but I mean most of the time untill unsatisfied ...

Today idea: use a silk brush, instead of gun ofr the inside layers
make a much better dust free room
may be buy a better gun ...
Please, I need help.
I tried on the forum materials: I need help to make a very nice mirror finish varnish ... but no real solution came out till today.
Laurent.

 

Posting on multiple threads will not help. Most people read all the threads.

To get a mirror finish you need many more coats then you are saying you have been using. It is not uncommon to apply as many as 12 coats, but 6 to 7 are normal. I use a good varnish brush for the first 4 to 5 coats then spray the last two. You should have two rooms. one for sanding and a spray booth if you are doing commercial work. The type of varnish is important also. I realize that where you are you are limited to what you can get, but I would ask around to the locals ,they might have some good home grown varnish that is better than what you are using.