The AWLGRIP Knowledge challenge

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by grady, Dec 31, 2007.

  1. afrhydro
    Joined: Mar 2008
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    Location: port charlotte fl

    afrhydro Senior Member

    more grip //more grip

    :p should be fast
     

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  2. the1much
    Joined: Jul 2007
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    the1much hippie dreams

    thought of you today grady,,,, almost bought me a gun washer fer $170.00
    hehe,, guess that might make me lazy tho ,, hehe ;)
     
  3. afrhydro
    Joined: Mar 2008
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    Location: port charlotte fl

    afrhydro Senior Member

  4. the1much
    Joined: Jul 2007
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    the1much hippie dreams

    hahaha,,, ya mine has a name of "Jim" ,, funny how that works out aint it hehe ;)
     
  5. grady
    Joined: Oct 2006
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    grady Novice

    funny

    Hey James, Funny you should say that. I was just thinking about you the other day. When my new gun was acting a little different, so I broke it down a little farther than normal. All I could hear were your words "some people just don't understand what clean means."

    So where ya been, I saw your snake encounter but then you went all quiet on us. Hope all is well.
     
  6. the1much
    Joined: Jul 2007
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    the1much hippie dreams

    been busy as hell,, the more i try to slow down,, the more people walk in and want me to do more :( i get a few minutes a day on the puter,, then off to bed,, but i can finally say i get 5 hours of sleep a night now :D
    hope all is going good for ya man ;)
     
  7. grady
    Joined: Oct 2006
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    Location: Scituate, Ma

    grady Novice

    Rip Van Winkle

    Boy your getten that kind of sleep? Wish I could.

    Yeah things are good here, got my boot stripe done, came out pretty good.

    got all my glass work done in the engine compartment, sanded it with 80 them scrubbed it down with tsp and warm water, then rinsed good with the hose, now I'm blow drying it (been 2 days now) with a 7,700 cfm fan. Temps in the low 60's.

    I'm planning on priming with 545 cause I have it. sanding and top coating with interlux's bilge kote 2 coats. Wish me luck.

    The direction say to sand between coats, Yeah I know we went over this, but I'm hoping to get away with re coating with out sanding because I have to jump down there to sand and the paint will mark, stick, pick crap off my feet etc..............

    So feel free to unload all of you painting know-how right here and tell me how I can accomplish this task ( in painful detail please ). Now see if you can sleep.:p
     
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  8. the1much
    Joined: Jul 2007
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    Location: maine

    the1much hippie dreams

    when ya start painting ( i dont know what ya got for room) FIRST paint a small spot that you can EASILY reach from topside,,, when that flash's off, start at the beginning again,, but DONT let it flash to the point of being shiny,,, shiny means its too late, and will run on ya. and make the second coat lighter then the first,, its all about weight and gravity :( ,, and they ALWAYS win!
    sometimes you need to thin the second coat a little more then the first,, jus cause of that weight thingy ;)
     
  9. grady
    Joined: Oct 2006
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    Location: Scituate, Ma

    grady Novice

    Update

    Well where to start, I've been jumping all over the place on this project.

    Jimbo that prekote seemed to work really well, ( I'll know for sure in a couple of seasons ). Real easy to use, seemed to stop or retard oxidation on the alum parts. I started with the hard top which sits on a stainless hard top frame. (Duh!!). so I had some corrosion around mounting holes etc. Sanded it all down then applied prekote then started the fairing process. Worked so well I decided to use it on my alum windshield frames. The Balls. Gripped all those parts.

    Then went on to my boot strip gloss black interlux one pack 2 coats scuffed in between Nice.

    Then painted the engine compartment bright white bilge kote interlux one pack 2 coats scuffed between coats Perfect.

    Then started assembiling the stern drive and engine componets. All good

    Posted new pics, take a look.

    P.S. Hey Colin, welcome back nice to see you found some time to hit the forum.

    And thanks to all of you guys. Boat looks great, and is really starting to come together.

    Tony G.
     
  10. tranmkp
    Joined: May 2002
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    Location: Texas

    tranmkp "wherever you go. there you are"

    very enjoyable thread - I cant recall what ya'll would do if you had to do an overpaint/repaint of an older paintjob... (someone called it japanese awlgrip)
     
  11. Jimbo1490
    Joined: Jun 2005
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    Location: Orlando, FL

    Jimbo1490 Senior Member

    The Japanese did own Awl-Grip for a while back in the 80's and early 90's. That's when they started to call it 'linear polyurethane' where it had been polyester urethane before.

    Jimbo
     
  12. grady
    Joined: Oct 2006
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    Location: Scituate, Ma

    grady Novice

    Reply

    Hey Tranmkp, Are you looking for a step by step instruction or just a starting place,

    Our main (or Maine) guy has been a little over worked these days. I hesitate to offer too much advice cause I'm still learning myself.

    But I will share what little I do Know.

    sorry for the delay, my internet has been down.
     
  13. sandshark12
    Joined: Sep 2008
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    Location: florida

    sandshark12 Junior Member

    Just reading through this thread before I start priming my own boat and got snagged here. Sounds like something I should try to follow in order to avoid the sags but......... Are we talking topcoat or primer here? Are the percentages here for reducer or for the thickness of one coat? I don't understand. I thought you have to wait 12 or 24 hours between coats and sand between coats for brushing.

    Thanks to everybody that contributed to this thread.
     
  14. grady
    Joined: Oct 2006
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    Location: Scituate, Ma

    grady Novice

    Page one

    Hey sandshark, this particular formula is for awlgrip topcoats in sprayed applications. The 545 is a product that can be applied in one coat, (although I would venture to say that most would apply the primer, sand and fair resand then reprime then finish sand then topcoat) As you can see the reoccurring theme is sanding, get used to it, you'll be be doing a lot of it.

    To answer the second part of that question, the percentages were for the percent of the total amount of product to be applied (sprayed that day)

    This was ment only to be a guide as to how little should be applied on the first coat. (almost a dry coat).

    Most of the info in this thread is universal, the major application method talked about is spray. Kapn Jerr has done some impressive brush work I'm sure he'll be happy to help.
     

  15. VikingTime
    Joined: Dec 2008
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    Location: New York

    VikingTime Junior Member

    What's the life of opened but non-catalyzed Awlgrip products?

    Hope I'm putting this in the right place...

    I am working on applying awlgrip/griptex to the cockpit of my boat.

    I live in NY and realize that I won't be able to work on the boat outside till spring; but I have two large hatches that needed repair and I've have been prepping them inside.

    I'm almost ready for 545 primer and then the top coat.

    If I use the 545 primer and top coat "now" to finish the hatches prior to continuing the "outside" work on the rest of the cockpit in spring (4 or 5 months away -optimistically), will the rest of the "non-catalyzed" 545 and top coat be use-able in Spring or does it expire quickly after the cans are unsealed?

    The hatches will require a very minimal amount of primer & top coat, so I'd hate to waste $$ on all that primer and paint.

    Thanks!
     
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