submarine

hi all..
I am not a naval architect, but I am so interest in submarine and I want to make
its miniature. Any of you can help me by giving me the lines plan?

 

One of the examples in "Michlet" is an LA Class nuclear sub. It is very easy to scale the dimensions down to the size you want.

See: http://www.cyberiad.net/michlet.htm

Good luck and please don't invade South Australia.
Leo.

 

Park it on the south shore of the Black Sea.

 

Handy trolly for a barrow load of coke from your corner store.......

 

Why make one that sits on the shelf gathering dust when you can make one you can drive : http://www.psubs.org/

and see also:http://www.vulcaniasubmarine.com/KRAKA.htm & http://www.psubs.org/psub_pic/PeterM3.html

 

thanks Leo
and about invade South Australia.....
just wait till my sub finished

 

great idea balsaboatmodels
but I think I'll begin with the small one

 

Boy - have you come to the right place
start with
http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/showthread.php?t=12263&highlight=concrete submarines

and then do a search for submarines - got some great concepts in various forums

 

Truth be told, I don't have a "sit and drive" one either but, hey, everyone is entitled to a good fantasy

Submarines, and spacecraft, have always been fascinating, but there's something about that "living in a little metal tube" matter which is a bit of a put-off.

Well now here's what you could do --> build one for show and one for go!

Would it make me less of a man in your eyes to reveal that the sub in this avatar is 2ft long and rubberband powered?

In R/C parlance it is dynamic diving - meaning has to be underway for planes to push it down.
Built from plans in a 30 year old kids' book with some freelance styling and a couple "technical upgrades". Tell ya what, those rudders have authority!
That silly little boat has been more fun over the last couple years

Photos taken with a disposable Fuji waterproof camera via WalMart, pack of 2 for $12. Water conditions in apartment pool obviously a bit variable.

 

nice photos balsaboatmodels
do you have further information about that pics?

 

hi Leo
I've been tried what you ask for, but could you give me the faster one?

 

Hey there, thanks
What I'm thinking you mean by further information might start off being being this?
http://s196.photobucket.com/albums/aa309/FSW4picts/?action=view&current=Balsa-Submarine-Project-Plans.jpg

It can be set to run straight or circular path. Has been 6feet down.

Here's a shot of it under construction, taken with not the greatest camera :
http://s196.photobucket.com/albums/aa309/FSW4picts/?action=view&current=thesubsofar.jpg

Tell ya what, e-mail me via my member's profile page and I'll tell ya some of the design changes made and construction processes. My computer is being worked on right now and it'll take a day or two to find my CD with more photos and load them into my wife's computer here to have to send.

 

hey balsa, do you have the lines plan? or perhaps detail about the size?
thanks

 

Have a lines plan - sort of.
First link in post above goes to scan of page with sub plans in a 30 year old (around 1970) grade-school kids' book my parents got my brother and I.
It has several model boat projects in back which were designed for the 6 year to 14 year old crowd at that time.

I made a LOT of changes which were either invented on the fly or merely sketched on the corner of a page. There are no formal lines plans for model as built.

Somewhere :?: burned on a CD is a hi-resolution scan of that page - could send image to you: will take me a couple days to find it, though.

That's easy
I'll bet you are where metric measurements are used, here English Imperial is used, so it's all going to be in inches and feet.

Length of hull: 24.0 inches
Beam of hull: 2.5 inches
Depth of hull: 2.5 inches

:!: Dive planes and rudders as built bear little relation to plan :!:
Beam over bow planes: 6.75 inches (or so) Stern planes a shade less.
Rudders extend 2.0 in (or so) below bottom of hull.
Planes and rudders are around 1.25in x 2in.

Sail/conning tower was carved from balsa blocks that looked right - never did measure them.

:!: This vessel was constructed literally "on the kitchen table" with power tools involved being only the soldering gun.
Well, no: the gun turned out too weak so a small torch was used.
No power tools then.

Hull is built around 0.5 inch thick x 2.0in wide x 24.0in long blasa plank.
Bow is carved from 5.0in x 2.0in x 1.75in balsa block.
Sides are .25in x 1.75in x 24.0in balsa.
Deck is 2 pieces because of taper down aft: Fwd = .25in x 2.5in x 16.0in
Aft = .25in x 2.5in x 8.0in.
Stern is built around a 1in x 1in x 2.0in balsa block drilled and carved to take rubber-powered sitck-and-tissue model airplane prop bushing.
Gonna need to wind up with hole of about 0.4in diameter for wound up rubber motor to fit through.

Before gluing deck on all balsa surfaces were soaked with thin ACC (superglue) and rubbed in with a plastic bag over my hand. Automobile primer was then sprayed on all surfaces with the sand, prime, sand, prime routine.
Then deck was glued on.

Round off hull corners as desired.

Plans had dive plane made from sheet aluminum epoxied to hardwood dowel through hull. I used sheet brass soldered to brass rod inserted through brass tube through hull.
theres enough friction on shafts to hold dive planes as set because I used the place where barcode price sticker left gummy residue on brass rod from plane to be put into tube through hull.

Rudder as given in plan was sheet tin epoxied into slot in hull and bent to turn boat. this one has twin rudders made from 2 pieces sheet styrene superglued to brass rods, 1 sheet each side of rods, edges of styrene glued together to make "airfoiled" shape.
Rudder shafts go through brass tubes in hull either side of propshaft tunnel. rudder shafts extend through top of hull with bellcranks soldered to RC plane wheel collars secured to top of shafts. Bell cranks are joined by length of bent brass wire. RC plane control rod connected to one bellcrank over centerline of hull then run fwd to wheel collar soldered to brass post set into tube on deck - that mechanism allows rudders to be set and locked down.

Plan has one hole fwd in bottom and one fwd in deck - hull interior is free flooding - with cork in deck hole keeping end of rubber motor in place.
added aft deck vent hole to mine and brass rod through brass tubes in hull sides to keep fwd end of rubber motor as like rubber powered aircraft models use dowel through fuselage. Area around where rubber motor retainer was to penetrate hull sides was reinforced with 1/16 RC plane plywood.

Plan shows cut and bent sheet metal epoxied to wire for prop. This one has Traxxis RC boat nylon prop drilled for eye screw aft to use to hook to crank winder. Shaft connecting rubber motor to prop is made from music wire and brass tube. Straight end of music wire inserted through short brass tube which was then nested in larger short length of brass tube. Coould solder the thing together. I ended up notching end of short tube, bending wire over, supergluing wire flush into notch, then cutting excess. Insert wire through model plane nose block/bearing then bend hook for rubber in end of wire.
Silp short length of heat-shrink electric insulation over hook to help preserve rubber motor.
Nested wire and tube assembly then inserted into Traxxas prop and held with setscrew as would be on RC boat.

Periscopes and antenna are brass wire and copper tube. 'Scopes penetrate sail to inside of hull - sometimes bubbles will trail out of longest 'scope
Snorkel is aluminum RC plane strut fairing over copper tube with model RR building roof vent as top valve assembly.
(WHAT a galvanic mess!!!!!!)

:!: Okay, here's where the 0.5in thick hull bottom becomes important :!:
For optimum performance it is best to ballast the boat to float with deck awash. 1970-something plan says bolt strips of solder to plywood keel. Yeah. Sure. What I did was slot hull bottom plank along centerline for a .125 x 1.0 x 12 brass strip keel and then chisel 10 troughs something like 1.0in x 3.25 in in hull - one fwd of keel, one aft of keel, eight along keel- 4 ea side.
Troughs were gradually filled with steel shot and epoxy. Sub was tub-tested and after weather permitted, pool tested till I was satisfied with cumulative ballast. Then ballast was finished flush with hull bottom.

I have no idea how much this thing weighs/displaces but it's enough that you'd do serious dmamge to whomever you cracked up 'side their head with it But then you'd break your boat too

Given a 20 yard long pool, with about 320 winds on the rubber motor, this thing will go from surfaced at shallow end to smacking side up to 5ft down at deep end once one gets the hang of trimming it
Set to circle in width of pool it has been deeper than I am tall, making that 6ft to 7ft.
Set fwd plane to steep and they'll be a speed brake.
Added aft planes to keep prop at stern under water as she dives.

Now,the rubber motor -->
That's ordered by weight from a model airplane supplier.
Sub performs best on two loops of 1/16in x3/16in tan sport rubber.
Make loops about as long as the hull less a finger width or two.
:!: Longer loops will NOT give a longer run.
Or at least they didn't for me.
Lube loops with glycerin based rubber moto lube available from model airplane suppliers.
Pool chlorine ain't good for the rubber and the lube helps prolong life.

Prepping and running:
Motor retainer rod goes through hull between upper and lower vent/drain holes. partially insert rod through hull, insert looped end of one loop into vent hole and capture it with rod. Now, from prop shaft tunel at stern insert the "sheperd's crook fishing hook" thing you made from music wire and catch rubber the pull it out through stern. Loop end around one dive plane.
Now comes the fun part :retract retainer rod a bit and repeat performance with second rubber loop.
Loop ends of rubber over hook in prop shaft. Gather up funky 5:1 handcrank winder you got from that airplane supplier.

I find sub easiest to wind sitting with my legs over edege of pool, or in water on pool steps, holding hull between my feet just aft of bow planes.
attach crank to eyescrew in prop, pull rubber taut, then gradually wind into hull. Double knotted rubber should just fit through shaft bushing tunnel.

Disconnect winder from prop. Hold prop and stern with one hand. Hull with other one. Check angle on planes: stern just below level, bow about 3 to 5 degrees down. Set boat into water, deck just a surface, holding till hull fills.
Point in desired direction.
Let go.

Prop will initially rooster-tail and cavitate, spinning too fast, then bite as it gets under.
That baby will move faster than one might expect if finished with a clean modern hull.

Pool circulation currents will affect course - you'll just have to learn how to set rudders and which side to run on in your pool.

Have some sketches for larger boats; a China PLAN Model 33 based on Trumpeter's 1/144 styrene kit; and, a twin-screw Typhoon ("Red October"); and, one version of Jules Verne's "Nautilus" (NOT Disney version).
This one has a squarish hull section like some 1914 boats over their ballast tanks - have ideas how to make them more circular.

 

Ahh! just found these scans saved to CD.


Pool Recreation Sub 1 (PRS-1) just starting down: taken with one of a $12 pair of FUJI disposable waterproof 35mm cameras - not bad cameras!
Note serious cavitation as prop gets underwater.
Kicks up a nice rooster tail before getting to this point - yer gonna get yer face wet


PRS-1 diving, from below. Again, note cavitation: as she gets deeper it goes away and prop really slows down. Has some serious torque roll as she gets going too.

Gets pretty decent performance out of a prop designed for a surface-piercing Deep_Vee