Coupling

The allignment ring is the bit machined in the flange to allign with its mating flange for CENTRALIZATION. vertical horizontal and lateral are adjustable ,--look it up.

 

I KNOW THAT YOU DIP, BUT THE MATING FACES MUST KISS, NOT be forced I dont fuckin need to look it up

I am an engineer with 40 years hand s on, look that up

 

Modified the coupling again and the locking nut will have the ff:

- 74mm outer dia
- 80mm deep
- 1-3/4" thread at 8 TPI
- 4 off 7mm dia hole with 55mm dia PCD for spanner

Coupling flange will be attached directly to gearbox flange.

Below is the image of coupling I have come up so far. Thanks for your inputs.

 

Again, don't dimension both ends of a taper! All this does is screw up your tolerancing and fit as well as making your machinist hate you.. If you are really, really, concerned about where the face of the coupling ends up relative to the shaft, dimension the middle of the taper diameter for both the shaft and socket and call out the same taper for both.

 

I dont think we were disgussing that, that is normal when mating two flanges , I think we all know that you dont force it together but Im sure he will be pleased with your input.

Its all yours ,--you tell him how to do it Lazy,---your the man.

Why are you so angry today ,, didnt manage to get into a fight in the pub last night?

 

Shipdesigner: The answer to your doubts about the overall size is don't worry, it is large enough to handle the torque. With 12 M16 bolts the coupling can handle much more than 3000 Nm.
Jehardiman: The drawing is only intended for calculations. It is not uncommon to specify only dimensions in that case. The real drawing for the machine shop order should of course show angles (in Europe) or ratio. Plus of course tolerance and surface finish. Success or failure for this construction depends on the quality of the taper, both on the shaft and the coupling, but if you like challenges, why not....