The AWLGRIP Knowledge challenge

Happy New year Everyone.

I thought It might be interesting to compile a tread packed with Knowledge from professionals with eons of experience.

So I'm challenging us to post any tricks, hints or special sequences that might help the novice manage this fussy product.

I have learned (the hard way) that awlgrip can be applied with success, by folks with little or no experience. If said person has the patience and attention to detail to see the process through.

The paint needs to be respected, but is quite satisfying to spray.

I think the basics are common knowledge, but there are things that you pro's pick up after years application.

I'll start (and I'll caution you that my experience is limited) Awlgrip topcoats need to be reduced quite a bit more than the manufacturer suggests. Up to 40% were as the label states 25%. Viscosity is an important factor toward our goal of flow which directly equates to GLOSS.


I hope this concept is well received.

Lets have some fun, Best wishes and may your boats shine


Grady

 

Bad Idea?

Well, that will teach me to post at midnight on New Years Eve with a belly full of inspiration.

 

heh ya,,inspiration thats what we call "it"
o.k heres a quickie,,if you want to clear your white or light colors ( awl-grip says its a no-no) mix about a third (by volume) of clear in with your last top coat,spray that,then mix 2/3 rds clear and 1/3rd color and spray that.

 

I love Quickies

Cause there good for me.

Inspiration---Intoxication????????????? same thing

Hey Much, I knew I could count on you.

Thanks for the contribution.


(Ya ever hear people say your only as old as you feel, well I didn't think people lived as long as I feel)



thanks

 

any time

 

after sanding then blowing off <(wow,,thats sounds dirty heh) and its time to wipe with denatured alcohol, soak your rag,,,wring out,,wring out,then wring out,,then take that wet rag and,,,,,,flap it in the air like crazy,,like ya mom does when she folds the laundry,,flap till its damp,,NOT WET,,then wipe as gently as you tack! do NOT make a wet streak with your rag,,,,even though the alcohol evaporates fast and you dont see it anymore,,,,once your paint hits it,,you'll see it!. if you do happen to streak it,, lightly hand sand the spot ( keep a damp rag under your sanding hand to catch the dust)

once you sand something NEVER touch!,, if you've sanded the deck and need to get around,,DONT WALK AROUND IN YA SOCKS, put masking tape on the bottom of ya socks,,,the oils in ya feet make a cool design on ya deck after the first shot

 

If you think you want to paint your boat Flag Blue have someone commit you to the local crazy house, or just chain you to an anchor until the feeling passes - then paint it white!!

and Much I gave up on alcohol (not booze) I just use water and dbl towel. No spray!! roll & tip only.

 

i jus have the denatured here for the "fumes"
and if water is used, make sure its filtered, specially in area with high lime count < not the tequila lime eitha!! heh

 

My yard is under the path for planes landing at the FTL airport. It's a lost cause. I have to wash down each section just before I paint - section at a time. I am pretty sure that is what caused the crawling on the first coat - hydraulic fluid or fuel - Contamination from above!! No work today -rain delay

 

when i worked for able marine building the apogee 55's the yard was ACROSS the street from an airport. And guess where they flew over for landings and take offs. we alwaYs sent the boat to be painted,,,,,until the dreaded day they found out i started my own biz. the first white boat,,i was gonna be soooo proud to show the yard that taught me glass and fairing how good i painted.
half way down the deck,,i thought i might have had too many "fumes" cause it was psychedelic,,,man the fish eyes were so cool,,,,,,then it hit me,,,,AAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHGGGGGGGG fish eyes. the SECOND time i painted ( after totally re sanding EVERYTHING) i only got bout 10 feet down until (WHAT TA *&%*(^#@#&^% ),, then the dude that taught me to paint, (AFTER I CALLED HIM CRYING) started laughing @ me saying "your problem is above ya",,,,2 in the morning i called him back,,"I GOT IT!!!" " *%#$@ " planes!!!

 

Maybe we should change this thread to read "All the things that can go wrong with Awl Grip"
I'll start the list: (for Roll and Tip)
A- Contaminate on the primer
1 Old Alcohol
2 Laundry detergent left in the wash down rag
3 Airplane crap falling on the primer
B -Not enough reducer.
1 Whatever the mix is supposed to be it's never right
Too hot
Too cold

 

-then theres too much dust in the shop/yard
-ya watered down the walls and floor,,then evaporation causes condensation on the hull
-water in air line
-wrong size nozzle ( can you "slow ones" have the wrong size roller or brush?
- all the dam lights going out HALF WAY THROUGH
-someone leaned against the hull (after you sanded) and you now have there hand print staring at ya
,,,man,,,all my nightmares happening again
i need more coffee and "fumes" i feel like i just lost $12,000.00 on this job
man,,,i think i'm beginning to hate awl-grip as much as i do boats

 

Let's stay POSITIVE

Come on now Jerry. We all know things can go wrong.


But things can also go really well too!!!!!


Let's not reinvent the wheel here

If everyone chips in and gives a little, the collective Knowledge has huge potential to have a positive impact on a tremendous amount of projects.


Tony's second hint:

Sags (not the kind that affects the women in our lives)

can be eliminated by separating coats to 3 completely separate shoots.

The first one being the lightest (dryest)...............25% of your total coat

followed by a good 35-45 min kick wait between coats

The second one being slightly heavier, more of a wet coat.......35%

followed by another 35-45 min kick wait between coats

The last coat is the heaviest and wettest and the one that really needs to flow and in order to insure this attention must be keep on the surface. A small florescence light keep by your side to check on the section just painted will go along way to facilitate this........................remaining 40% of paint.

P.S. Mix coats separately. Just adjust as coats progress.



What d'ya think Jim?

Grady

 

sounds right on to me

 

Good hint:

Don't try to make the first coat pretty; just get a little bit of paint deposited evenly on the surface. The job of the first coat is to hold on to the second (and third) coat(s) to prevent them from sliding off (running). If you try to put the first coat on nice and glossy, you will almost certainly get runs.

Another one:

It's better to wait too long between the first and second coat than to wait too short a time. Too little time between coats is a major cause of larger runs and sags. Ideally, you should wait the 'just right' length of time between coats, but if you err, err on the long side of 'just right'.