pay/cut as you build?

Hey all,

I'm dying to get started before I get too old to build this thing. Is it feasible to start building w/o having bought the entire kit in one single shot? I ask because the kits seems it will run me about $70,000 on up for something near a 50' sail from BR.

My idea is to buy the cutting files and have big chunks of the boat cut as I can afford, like frames and stringers first, then a section of plates in another run, etc..., something like that. Anyone know if the layout for the cutting files would allow for such a thing?

 

Depends on the nesting. The high def. plasma cutter in my shop has a start stop button; Most do.

 

You might be better off learning (if not already known) how to loft from the plans. Then you would have all the flexibility needed.

The CNC files are sure handy, but qiute pricey also

Thats a HUGE project. Remember also that the hull/shell only account for approx. 20%-25% of the boat's overall cost. Deep pockets would definetly be needed in the future. If you have not already done so may I suggest some deep, long thinking & serious study before jumping into such a large boat.

That said there are many beautiful home built vessels out there. It all begins with the first step. Those who finish their boats just know how to dance better.

Welcome to the forum.

TGoz

 

Unfortunately I'll have to pay for space to build this because my home doesn't have a yard and I think the extra pay for the cutting (and accuracy) will save me time and money regarding this.

And since I'm shooting for fairness in the hull which is pretty important to me, being a newb and all, I think this is the route I'll probably take.

 

I started my first 43 with 300 dollars it took 7 years to build

timgoz is right abt lofting
If you like I can send the loft chapter from my book,

From your designer it is essential to get the offsets anyway, and you WILL need to draw the body plan to lay the frames, floors beams upon to assemble and weld up Also your keel, stem bar will be in pieces you will need to loft it too or at least draw the waterlines to set it up and weld it together
If its a chine boat it is simple to draw the plates from the cut file dwg
here to help
i am building a new one now, and for a change its to be a chine boat If you a re doing a round bilge boat you can get some ideas abt set up from my gallery,
One thing, building, is a challenge, you will have ups downs, frustratios, and at times fun You will be poor, and happy on launch day) good luck

 

I'll repeat the suggestion in the form of a question. Why not build a boat you can afford? Or at least why not chose one you can buy the kit for?

 

as Gilbert says 50 is huge, big boat big gear big everything, being broke for 7 years is not for eveyone
Also look around for a real sailing boat,
Light means fast, manouverable safe
there are some very very good navelk architects on this site who work fast efficiently and design good looking creations
I am always slightly puzzled, as to why people chose these big heavy things as their first boat

 

Gents

Me and my wife are building a 60f round chine steel sailor from scratch. we started with bare paper plans with full size patterns in 2005. In late summer 2006 the rollover day came. again me and my wife did the rollover with nothing but a jack, comealongs and wooden blocks. we plan to blast and paint late this summer when the welding is done.

All plates were delivered flat and uncut. all cutting has been done by mostly my wife with a 7" angle grinder.

We’ve been ordering steel 3 times (ones a year) from the same company when enough money on the bank for enough steel for the planned work year.

Were planning to get wet summer 2008. by then we estimate a total cost of 30-25k USD.

This is not our first boat. we've have had a 30f steeler for many years. that boat were built by my grandfather and my dad. so maybe you could say that its in my blood (the insanity that is )

This is a real locost build. im doing as much as i can my self. the first tool i bought was a lathe. later a tig welder. Now ive made all throughulls, bollards, bits and pieces for the stanchions. baseframes for deck hatches all in 316 for the price of scrap.

There are ways to cut money costs, but be prepared to pay the price in blood and sweat and time. last summer we hade a total of 5 weeks of summer vacation. i think there was 1 ore 2 days that we didn’t go the the build site. basically there are no free time left for anything else. and btw. we both work full time and we have a 7 years old daughter who spent a lot of time with granny.

-- Per

edit: typos

 

Larper, bravo, you a have wonderful wife,
i have seen many marriages fail cos of THE BOAT

 

Bad thing's she know shes on in a million

 

i had a Dutch mate, his wife machined all the steering sheeves, worked by his side for 3 boats, sailed around the world, SALT OF THE EARTH

 

a fair hull get build, and not by CNC cutting files.....

 

what my mate means bye this, is cnc files do not ensure you end up with a fair hull!! For instance if I had two plates put together, and they eqiualled 12 m, I would still draw the grid of the cut files on the ground, I would then weld off the butt on the ground, watching to make sure that the plate stayed on that grid
If you just butted then up without a grid on the ground and your butt gap was not exactly even, then the ends of those plates may end up to be out,
i mean I would not draw all the grid of the file but at least a couple of water lines I would draw all the frames stations on the plates, and a waterline With boatbuilding it check check and recheck as you go, , dont forget the cheque)

 

Start scrounging and buiulding your detail bits and pieces . Detailing one of my designs takes the same amount of time as building the sheel , so it's 1/3rd the steel working time.It can be done without a big building site, in al weathers. Build a few anchors and blocks while to you are at it.
Brent

 

Back to the original question, yes it is possible to get part of the kit cut first. It would be best to have an engineer to re-nest the cutting files for you and there may be some loss of efficiency with regard to metal use. Make sure you have the metal supplier blast the kit to completely remove the mill scale and apply a pre-weld primer.
But I have a suggestion - Go to your bank then have a professional boat builder put the hull together for you and apply the coatings, insulation and paint. Then do all the fun stuff yourself. You may not have as much time left as you think!