Hea,Hea, Some success with pics. But now the ??Question's.. First one answer; The reason for going in from the outside to begin with is because there's NO independent stringers to fail. Hull and cap are pulled from molds sealed together and fully foam injected except for the transom, and that's dabbed in, wetted out & clamped in the process. I'll supply pics when allowed, for now they say "enough" Not today. Preface to the, I want NO Ply wood, and have already acquired the "Rajay-6011 transom putty". Yea I suspect that "Cousa Board" or some other non organic product would have worked as well,, BUT,, There it IS! Question for the board: The best way to proceed.. 1: Wax and clamp "Melamine" to the outer and inner skins, pour, grind back in to the existing glass and over lay a couple layers if glass? And what specific glass? I plan on using Epoxy, purely for it's ability to bond to "What-Ever". Or is Vinyl Ester resin sufficient? It's absolutely more cost effective. 2: Fabricate a 1/4" thick panel with majority biaxial, cut it to a close fit, brace well, pour, grind back joints and fill to level, sand & paint Be of mind that the transom will be (Filled) to FULL! No re-leaf cut for specific motor shaft length. That will be accomplished with a transom motor Bracket, running near full width to aid in overall rigidity The original 20" shaft length will be replaced with newer 25" length of the same HP. Also think about weight transfer with the 16" extension. To the plus side I removed a 2'X6' transom insert, comprising of a live well, battery storage & seating. batteries will be re-positioned forward in the "C" Console. In it's current configuration, 4 people can sit 2by2, fore & aft of the console, it's a fishing boat Damm-It. I may pull it with a Mercedes, but that doesn't change it's place in line!!