Boat Design Forums  |  Boat Design Directory  |  Boat Design Gallery  |  Boat Design Book Store  |  Thanks to Our Site Sponsors

Go Back   Boat Design Forums > Construction > Boatbuilding > Wooden Boat Building and Restoration
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 07-07-2004, 10:28 PM
Offshore Offshore is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Rep: 10 Posts: 5
Location: South Australia
WRC / Longevity

Hi. My wife and I are the proud owners of a Duncanson 30' Offhore Design, aptly named Offshore. We have owned her now for some 19 months. She was built in Pt, Adelade in 1989 Of Western Red Cedar and epoxy glass sheathing by Searles Boatyard. Reputable boat builders.

We slipped her in 08/03 and antifouled her. We again slipped her in 02/04 for some maintainence to the rudder. Out of the water (02/04) we noticed that there was a small ooze / soak spot just forward / starboard side of the keel.

On further investigation there was was a small crack in the glass aprox 2" long. We dug / bevelled an area approx 6" long and filled with epoxy.

In the event of there being some water in the core, does any one have oppinions on how this might effect the WRC? I geuss that that the WRC was exposed for approx six months.

Hope this question doesn't sound to much like "how long is a piecce of string" look forward to your oppinions.

Michael
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 07-08-2004, 09:40 AM
Offshore Offshore is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Rep: 10 Posts: 5
Location: South Australia
offshore pics

offshore pics
Attached Thumbnails
WRC / Longevity-offshore-08.jpg  WRC / Longevity-stb-bow.jpg  
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 07-17-2004, 01:00 PM
pungolee pungolee is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Rep: 34 Posts: 90
Location: north carolina
It would be nice if you could store your boat in a greenhouse to dry it completely,this takes up to 3 months.Fans in the bilge would facilitate this process.Attention would then be to the bilge,evidently water is pooling at the lowest point and taking the easiest way out by the keel.I do not know the thickness of your sheathing but you evidently do not believe the crack came from impact damage,rather osmosis coming from the bilge working its way through the glass.If there is evidence of hairline cracks in other areas than two things could be occurring.Frames could be loose or broken allowing the hull to "Work"causing cracks in the sheathing.Bilge pumps could be improperly installed allowing isolated pooling of water inside.Keel fill lead or other could be shifting or broken loose and require attention.After all structural issues are addressed it would be a good idea to bite the bullet and go for a barrier-coat epoxy and polyurethane paint job.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 07-17-2004, 08:32 PM
PAR's Avatar
PAR PAR is offline
Yacht Designer & Builder
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Rep: 3125 Posts: 9,408
Location: Eustis, FL
A lot more information needs be delivered for a reasonable assessment to be given.

Is this a plank and frame yacht? Single layer (carvel) or other?

Is this a molded boat? How many layers? frame spacing (if any)

Is this boat considered a composite construction? In that I mean is the cedar used as a core separating an inner and outer layer of 'glass set in epoxy?

I'm betting it's strip planked with a skin of 'glass, for abrasion resistance on the outside.

Are any seams from the planking showing through the paint?

By keel, do you mean the fin hanging below the craft or the timber running the length of the centerline of her?

When was her last survey? Were there any questions about keel bolts raised? Fasteners checked?

Has she been through a hard grounding? How long was she pounding in the tide changes during this?

I can't see the boat as this is the usual way I find out what the real story is behind any craft I'm about to work on. You'll have to be our eyes or hire a set that knows what to look for.

You may have an isolated abrasion that breached the coating ('glass) and some water got in. If the area wasn't really dry (15% moisture content or less) you may have just goo'd over the moisture, locking it in the planking. It could be opened back up (more then just beveling it back) allowed to dry, then re 'glassed.

This would be nice, but it may be much worse. Get the area open at least and start the drying process. Have a skilled person, familiar with this construction technique, have a look see in the bilge. Have him sound the sheathing for delaminating, and give us a yell when you have some more info to share.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 07-19-2004, 03:45 AM
Offshore Offshore is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Rep: 10 Posts: 5
Location: South Australia
Hi.

Thanks for the imput. Last survey was in 10/02, just before we decided to buy the boat. Survey came up ok, no moisture problems or delamination issues.

Construction is 5/8" strip plank cedar. There are no ribs as such, the bulkheads of which there is 6 provides the support for the strip planking. The boat builder advised me that they used 20oz glass and isothalic resins and NGP gelcoat.

The keel contains a sump for bilgewater. Displacement 2960 Kg. Fractional rig.

regards Michael
Reply With Quote
Reply



Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Peninsular engines longevity Nounours Powerboats 14 09-08-2005 05:12 AM
Engine Longevity Willallison Powerboats 5 08-26-2003 09:13 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:30 AM.


Powered by: vBulletin Copyright ©2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Web Site Design and Content Copyright ©1999 - 2012 Boat Design Net