Is it worth it

[awol46]

Purchased a 28ft owens, 1968 sedan. It has been docked at this marina(fresh water) for 3 yrs with no maintenance. Engine was replaced and ran for 30hrs about 3yrs ago. Boat does not leak, engine cranked with a little finesse. Want to pull it out this month, but will not be able to work on it for 4-5 months due to winter cold. Will be stored outside on new trailer and tarped. Open to any suggestions from more experienced restoration guys or gals.

[lacasmarine]

why do you need to take it out of the water? if it is not leaking.
do you want it to dry out ?

[longliner45]

nice looking boat ,,pull it out . and clean the grass and mussels off, and do a bottom job,, yea its worth it ,,,,longliner

[awol46]

Thanks for the input guys. I want to replace thru hull fittings and annodes, plus clean and paint the hull. I am also going to totally rewire it as owner made a spider web of wiring. Have some rot in cabin where water got to do to no maintenance, and the galley and head need repair. Hope to get it back in the water by July next year. Question... How will boat hold up on trailer for 8 mths, under tarp and during repairs. lso going to pump out oil ,change filter, check compression,and if all checks good crank and test motor while out of water. Will connect hose to inlet and suck from 200gal partable tank. Any suggestions!!!! Thanks

[longliner45]

check out the local marinas and see if you can get someone to help you design a cradle or who can help you set it up to distribute the weight evenly

[awol46]

Thanks longliner45!! The trailer was made to support a wooden boat, it is a nothback with extra bunks under the middle and 8ft bunks down the sides, and adjustable bunks for the bow section. PlusI am thinking of using a few jack stands also. Trailer will set with wheels on 2*10's and tongue section on blocks. Will have a tarp of 30 by 50 for complete cover and to allow access to work on the fairly warm days.

[PAR]

Trailers for wooden boats have to be fitted carefully, especially for extended storage ashore. Most all trailers currently are setup for outboard or I/O powered 'glass vessels, which places quite different demands on the location of supports, particularly bunks and axle(s) placement.

Your boat has two big pieces of lumber running from the transom, to just about the point the deck meets the front face of the deckhouse. There also are two other smaller chunks of lumber running the same way, father away from center. The two closest to the centerline (about 24" apart) serve as the engine bearers and as huge longitudinal stiffeners. The trailer bunks have to be centered directly under each of these pieces. If they aren't the garboards will work loose, the planking will distort and a host of other problems. Go inside the boat, measure the distance between these pieces and mark them on the transom, to insure the trailer bunks provide support under them. A 'glass boat trailer will have these bunks much father apart then you need, so they'll have to be adjusted.

The axle(s) will also need to be moved forward (probably as far as they'll go), so that the engine and transmission are sitting on top of them.

Support the keel with as many centerline rollers as you can fit on the trailer. You'll also likely need to have some outer supports (sort of like jack stands attached to the trailer) mounted aft of the rear axle, just inboard of the chine, so they keep the boat from flopping over. Insure none of your bunks or other supports pushes up on thru hulls, strainers, etc. This many seem obvious, but is often the case with poorly fitted trailers.

Yes, haul the boat, three years is plenty long enough to ask of bottom paint. Check seams, caulk, fasteners, running gear (struts, prop, etc.) A boat should be hauled each year and given a good once over to catch any potential issues, before they become problems.

Make a tent pole, down the centerline of the boat, with this ridge pole propped up, off of the boat. Drape a tarp over it like a pup tent, with plenty of over hang at each end. This allows ventilation and if high enough, you can work under it without getting wet. Ventilation is key, so open all hatches, doors, drawers, etc., to let air circulate around everything.

Check the intersection of the bottom planking at the chines in the aft third of the boat, also along the keel in the same area, these are prone to rot. So to is the lower portion of the transom framing.

[awol46]

I had the boat made for a wooden hull, but will check it out as per your info. I am also going to use jackstands for extra support. The longest I want this boat out of the water is from Dec. til april or may. I don't want to paush the issueof stress or twisting. The hardest part will be getting it on the trailer as it is not running right now.

[PAR]

The marina will have a little tender they can use as a push boat to float you on the trailer. If not, you can use about any small outboard powered boat to bring her to the trailer. I suggest towing from the side, rather then from a bow or stern eye. Just raft them together and putter away. Yea, it'll steer weird, but you quickly get a feel for it. Personally, I like to recover without getting wet, but sometimes you don't have much choice, so don't be shy about getting knee deep to wiggle her around and square with the bunks, rollers, etc. Watch the running gear (struts, shafts, props, etc.) they can get beat up very easily on a trailer and ain't cheap to fix or replace.

[awol46]

I contacted the marina and the new owner says they will get it to the trailer for me. You have been of great assistance to me and it is greatly appreciated.I am trying to find an old barn I can put it in during the winter here in Kentucky but so far no luck. As for now everyone heave ho and steady as she goes!!!