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#1
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| Wooden Boat Renovation Forum Would it be possible to start another forum, primarily for renovation of the old woodies out here? Sure would like to talk with someone in the same situation as me. (Wondering if I've done something screwy) Thanks
__________________ ... since 1960 Doctor Dave New College of Florida Sailing Squadron |
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#2
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| If a few other people would also be interested in a new wooden boat forum here as well, please reply to this thread and I'll add it as soon as 3 or 4 people are interested in the idea. In the meantime, you are most welcome to post in the boatbuilding and other forums, and you might also take a look at WoodenBoat magazine's excellent forum at http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php (but make sure you come back here too ) And we want to see some pictures as your project moves along! |
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#3
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| I think it is a good idea. It would narrow the focus of the discussion. |
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#4
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| Long winded vote for WB restoration Forum I would be very interested in a wooden boat restoration forum as well. I often use non-traditional techniques for wooden boat repairs, some are better some are worse than the traditional repair method. I would love to hear about wooden boat restoration methods and syles. The forum may also provide a valuable resource to someone restoring a wooden boat and my offer the needed encouragement and support someone may require to undertake such a project.
__________________ Ed Neu Florida |
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#5
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| I would also like to se a wooden boat restoration forum, count me in |
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#6
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| Wooden Boat Restoration Forum created as ordered... The difficult part of creating a new forum is getting it established, so I hope you guys will feel free to post here and maybe post some tips and tricks, or some ideas about a project to get this new forum started... I am excited to see this forum develop, and thanks for any and all ideas in advance ![]() |
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#7
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Great addition, look out WB. Gary ![]() |
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#8
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| > Great addition, look out WB. At the current level, it looks like we have a little way to go... But hopefully this forum will become more lively soon ![]() I think it was a good idea. Now we just have to get it started. Everyone with a great wooden boat rennovation project is welcome to post here too (...please...) |
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#9
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| Not much activity on this Wooden Boat Renovation forum. I will be starting construction of a wooden powerboat of classic lines from the early 1900's fairly soon and would appreciate some advice. The boat will be about 5' wide and 20 1/2' long. The bow will be almost plumb, the cambered foredeck about 8 1/2' long, vertical windshield, 8' long cockpit with awning cover, and 4' long cambered aft deck concealing a 4 cycle outboard in a well at the stern. The sheer will sweep upward toward the bow, slight bow flare and pronounced tumblehome aft. The underbody will have a deep, sharp forefoot then gradually flatten to a shallow V at the transom. I am strictly an amateur, but have done some design study and have designed and built five previous boats. What I think will be appealing about this boat is its classic-appearing rounded sweeping curves all achieved in a completely developable hull shape. I am just finishing drawing out full-size patterns for the frames (13). So next I need to start looking for appropriate wood. Budget is a factor. I am thinking of using Douglas fir for the frames, keel, sheer, chine (not evident in the fore sections); then using a double layer of 1/4" plywood to sheath it. Inner layer of plywood may be fir; outer will be the nice imported stuff which I will have to get shipped in. Should be strong, fairly light and dimensionally stable. Does this all make sense? Is there a better wood for the frames that woudn't cost too much more? |
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#10
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| this is cool.... i am planing on melding a wooden top deck to an older clasic glass hull and adding new power in the process...shes a 20' 59 SKAGIT semi displacement hull made in LaConnor Washington with same vintage volvo penta AQ100 motor and leg .although designed as a small cruiser i plan on striping the top and converting to a runabout. if anyones interested i could post pics of before and after and could also use all the help and ideas i can get.... regards Marc PS .... does anyone know of a museum that might want an original running 59/60 volvo penta AQ100 I/O assembly, also have a pair of electric worm screw type trim tabs ..... ya never know |
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#11
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| Guest: It does make sense. Is it a round hull as an early 1900's or a more modern chine hull? Also, the horsepower will determine whether the scantling are adequate or not. 1/2'' should be OK for a displacement hull.
__________________ Gonzo |
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#12
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| Classic powerboat Thanks, Gonzo Aft the hull will have a hard chine; at the bow there will be no evident chine for the first 4-5 feet then it becomes gradually more prominent. Your mention of HP is a good point. I don't want to power it short of usable potential, but also don't want to overpower it. I live at 7500 foot elevation. I am told that larger engines are needed at such altitudes due to the reduced efficiency of combustion. I am thinking about 25 HP. I want a short shaft to make it easy to enclose the engine in a well. Only the smaller engines come with the short shaft. Displacement speed only is too slow for me, but I also don't want to go so fast that a wind blasts against the awning. I want a hull that glides at low speeds, not pushing a wall of water. Fifteen MPH max. would be okay; more would be great, but I am willing to experiment, and understand disappointment is possible. It seems that design criteria for semi-displacement or semi-planing hulls is not so readily available, which may be one of the attractions to me for trying such a design. That plus esthetics; I just like the looks of the old boats more than the new generic fiberglass hulls. |
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#13
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| One very important thing for a motor in a well is ventilation. I've seen motors die, specially at idle, because the exhaust gases stay in the well area. I like the combination of round sections forward changing to a chine aft. It works well at medium speeds. In a resistance graph it shows a knuckle, that is resistance increases fast then almost plateaus and after increases again. There is an economy area faster than hull speed. To my knowledge it only works in very skinny hulls like kayaks or what you are designing. I assume that the WL beam will be maybe 4' or so. |
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#14
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| gonzo: I understand that the L/B ratio should be at least 5/1 to achieve a high speed-to-length ratio with limited power. I'm not going to make that ratio. I want this boat to seat two people comfortably side by side and be short enough to fit into a garage. That dictates my dimensions: waterline width of 4 3/4 feet and waterline length of about 20 feet. Again, this is an experiment, and I understand that I may not achieve my design goals. Although, I have read of several similar designs which achieved claimed speeds of 15-17 knots. The classic look is critical. The performance I am willing to gamble on. A developable design should allow the hull to be strong yet light. Power will come from a relatively light engine. The fun here is to try to balance (find the right compromise) displacement performance vs. planing potential. |
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#15
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| Can you increase the HP? There are bigger engines with a 15" shaft.
__________________ Gonzo |
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