Upside down stitching technique

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by Inquisitor, Nov 9, 2005.

  1. Inquisitor
    Joined: Nov 2005
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    Location: North Carolina Mountains

    Inquisitor BIG ENGINES: Silos today... Barn Door tomorrow!

    I am working on a 20’ catamaran (~20” hull beam). I have the side sheets w/ gunwales ready to start the stitch phase. The top edge is nice and strait and I’ve setup a table long enough for the boat. Instead of stitching the bottom and spreading the panels by placing the bulkheads, I want to:

    Jig bulkheads upside down on the table
    Place the side panels and bending the ends in first
    Block and/or screw the gunwales down to the table
    Then start at the front (working back) bringing the bottom edge together
    Glue/clamp/screw together the keel.

    I’ve read somewhere (on this or some other forum) that the copper stitches shouldn’t be left in anyway, so this method appears to be less labor intensive, no holes to drill, stitch with copper wire, pull out copper wire and fill holes.

    Is my imagination leading me astray? Am overlooking some vital piece of information?

    Thanks for your help?
     
  2. boatbuilder.org
    Joined: Jan 2005
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    Location: Olympia Washington

    boatbuilder.org Junior Member

  3. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
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    gonzo Senior Member

    I don't think leaving the copper stiches in can be a problem. Tie-wraps work very well too.
     
  4. Inquisitor
    Joined: Nov 2005
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    Location: North Carolina Mountains

    Inquisitor BIG ENGINES: Silos today... Barn Door tomorrow!

    I thought I'd follow up so if anyone else was curious. I tried the "upside down" technique described above. I found it too hard to adjust the gunwale edges (on the table) so that the keel edges would align to my satisfaction. The skins were cut/sanded at the same time so they match. I concede to tradition and the millions of stitched boats that came before.

    P.S. The good side - nothing was glued so I can turn it back over and do it right!
     
  5. boatbuilder.org
    Joined: Jan 2005
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    Location: Olympia Washington

    boatbuilder.org Junior Member

    After your boat is stitched and faired, tab it (fillet and a 2x2 piece of glass) between the stitches and after it has cured all the wire can be easily pulled. There are areas where you really need to tighten the wires and the softer metals may not be up to it. I just use electric fence wire and not the aluminum type.
    ---Joel---
    www.boatbuilder.org
    www.devlinboat.com
     

  6. chandler
    Joined: Mar 2004
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    Location: U.s. Maine

    chandler Senior Member

    I've heard the plastic ratchet type ties work very well. I've had problems with copper wire ties breaking with just that one extra 1/4 twist.
     
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