| ||||
|
#1
| |||
| |||
| Upside down stitching technique I am working on a 20’ catamaran (~20” hull beam). I have the side sheets w/ gunwales ready to start the stitch phase. The top edge is nice and strait and I’ve setup a table long enough for the boat. Instead of stitching the bottom and spreading the panels by placing the bulkheads, I want to: Jig bulkheads upside down on the table Place the side panels and bending the ends in first Block and/or screw the gunwales down to the table Then start at the front (working back) bringing the bottom edge together Glue/clamp/screw together the keel. I’ve read somewhere (on this or some other forum) that the copper stitches shouldn’t be left in anyway, so this method appears to be less labor intensive, no holes to drill, stitch with copper wire, pull out copper wire and fill holes. Is my imagination leading me astray? Am overlooking some vital piece of information? Thanks for your help?
__________________ Inquisitor Rocket Scientist or Space Cadet... you decide! |
|
#2
| |||
| |||
| Go to http://www.boatbuilder.org/godzillishull.htm . We stitch the bottom panels together and set them on the bulkheads and then add the side panels. ---Joel--- www.devlinboat.com www.boatbuilder.org |
|
#3
| ||||
| ||||
| I don't think leaving the copper stiches in can be a problem. Tie-wraps work very well too.
__________________ Gonzo |
|
#4
| |||
| |||
| I thought I'd follow up so if anyone else was curious. I tried the "upside down" technique described above. I found it too hard to adjust the gunwale edges (on the table) so that the keel edges would align to my satisfaction. The skins were cut/sanded at the same time so they match. I concede to tradition and the millions of stitched boats that came before. P.S. The good side - nothing was glued so I can turn it back over and do it right!
__________________ Inquisitor Rocket Scientist or Space Cadet... you decide! |
|
#5
| |||
| |||
| After your boat is stitched and faired, tab it (fillet and a 2x2 piece of glass) between the stitches and after it has cured all the wire can be easily pulled. There are areas where you really need to tighten the wires and the softer metals may not be up to it. I just use electric fence wire and not the aluminum type. ---Joel--- www.boatbuilder.org www.devlinboat.com |
|
#6
| |||
| |||
| I've heard the plastic ratchet type ties work very well. I've had problems with copper wire ties breaking with just that one extra 1/4 twist. |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
| |
Similar Threads | ||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Unusual boatbuilding technique for steel yachts 26'-40' | origamiboats | Materials | 31 | 07-28-2010 06:59 PM |
| Al Sorenson's bilding technique | MarkC | Metal Boat Building | 3 | 06-02-2005 11:01 AM |
| Better stripping technique | Timbard | Wooden Boat Building and Restoration | 15 | 04-24-2005 09:15 PM |
| Composite foam board sandwich technique | scottperkinsusa | Boat Design | 11 | 09-18-2004 08:30 PM |
| Wanting to build an upside down boat | dgie | Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building | 14 | 09-17-2004 05:29 PM |