Stripping old paint

[riggertroy]

I'm curious as to the best way others have found to remove old paint (lead based) from the interior of a hull. The paint is in poor condidtion, the boat had been sunk at her mooring a few years ago and shifted to a mud berth. She is now high and dry on a cradle. Progress so far has been to make the hull sound, about 3m of planking has been replaced. Replace the rotted part of the cabin top, and have started fitting a new cockpit. The interior has been stripped as it was damaged.

Currently I'm removing the old paint with hand tools as not sure of the damage that chemical strippers will do to the cauking and timbers. Hull is NZ Kauri and I've been told the framing is a type of gum. Frame spacings are between 3 - 8inch.

Any suggestions?

[Ilan Voyager]

A lot of old paints are very toxic; and the lead based ones are VERY toxic.
It's better, if you plan to be alive a long time, to wear full face masks with charcoal filters or to have a "positive pressure" mask (may be rented), and to wear tyvec clothes as the painters.

Whatever the method, it's a dirty work. Sanding paint inside a hull is a pain. Softening the paint with a torch and scrapping it exposes to toxic fumes; lead melts at very low temps and fumes a lot. Chemical strippers have toxic fumes and inside a hull is hard to rinse it.

We used "wet" sand blasters as those used for stone cleaning (some high pressure cleaners may receive a sand blasting kit). Ask for renting one, it's a common equipment. It has the advantage to strip the paint and to sand in the same time (used with delicacy) without dust.

Dry sand blast works also but the toxic dust leads to special precautions.

The stripped paint and sand(or other) must be put in strong bags and given to a special disposal. Children are very prone to heavy metal intoxication specially with lead, so all precautions must be taken.

[riggertroy]

Thanks, Have been using face masks the entire time. Wearing overalls with mask, gloves earmuffs, gets very hot.

Used a waster blaster for the initial removal of dried mud and found it lifted the old paint some but also found it was damaging the surface of the timber in doing so.

All waste is being collected into a drum for disposal.

Glad to read you comment about chemical strippers, was thinking that they could be difficult. Rinising and draining is not a major as there is a bronze plug that I removed when cleaning the mud out.

I will continue with the hand tooling method for now as I want to strip all th lead paint, if/when I sell the boat having removed the lead based paints may be a plus as many folks are paranoid about it.

Thanks for your help.

[Ilan Voyager]

You're welcome. Good luck.

[pungolee]

You have a couple of choices.First,you need an outside air source in your mask,Hobbyair makes one for around three hundred bucks but you can do the same with a respirator,good hose and clamps,and a air pump outside away from any residual fumes,plus a little ingenuity.If you have a low pressure stream of fresh oxygen to your face with a simple diaphram outlet for exhale you can work to your hearts content with any paint removal method,heat,chemical, or manual.SCUBA(Self contained breathing apparatus)would be even better,its pretty cheap to rent SCUBA equipment during the off-season when most boat work is done.Its not that drastic,small portable scuba units allow you to get the mess done,quick,without residual health effects years later.I would don scuba,a Tyvek water resistant suit(10 bucks)white rubber boots and blast the mess with the number 1 tip from a pressure washer(hard areas a number 0)Tilt the boat to the stern and pump the slosh if neccesary out the back.This way you can get her done!I'm telling ya,you will waste a lot of time and expose yourself to more toxic crap any other way.

[riggertroy]

Thanks for the advice.
The yacht is already trimmed so water drains out from the bilge plug.
I'm loath to use a water blaster again as the pressure required to remove the old paint has caused some minor damage.
What chemical stripper would you suggest?
Have access to SCUBA gear. Mind you the natural ventilation from an air scoup the other week was amazing.
Thanks Again

[pungolee]

I cannot recommend a good chemical stripper.You think the fresh air coming from the scoop is good,but all of those Methylene Chloride fumes will lull you into a false security.Respirators are no good against this stuff,trust me,I'm a Polymer Chemist.Charcoal cannisters are no match for this shit.(OOPS)You need fresh air,and lots of it,to use chemical strippers.I use the gel,and apply it liberally every ten minutes,till the stuff practically flakes off,but I do it under a open farm shelter with a crosswind.A tight bilge would be a nightmare,I don't care how tuff you may be.

[Kyle]

I've got to agree with pungolee. These strippers are bad mfers. I am a woodflooring contractor. We use these more than I care to admit on staircase parts. A good respirator is no match for the fumes once the air is saturated with those vapors. Go to the nearest new housing neighborhood and hang out with the painters shooting laquer. You won't find very may old ones (painters) on the site.
You might try Bix stripper. We've had relatively okay success with it. You just slather on the goo and keep it thick. With patientce and about fifteen minutes it starts to lift old paint and finish. However, there is still ALOT of hand work that needs to be done.

Goodluck, Kyle

[riggertroy]

Good points.
I mentioned before that so far I have been using hand tools. Was just wondering about quicker ways.
Will be sticking with the current method using the recommended PPE.
Thanks