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#1
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| Silver Spray - What timber to use? I am a newbie in the process of restoring my Hillyard and am stuck with the question of what timber to use to replace things like planks, frames and the stem post. Can anyone help me? For more about my restoration see my blog: http://silversprayrestoration.blogspot.com/ |
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#2
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| Use original materials when possible. Try to find someone who can identify the woods your Hillyard was built of and use those if you can. Stems are best of white oak though purpleheart is much used for repairs in my area. Frames are usually white oak, planking in UK often is larch which works very well. Port Orford cedar is ideal though expensive for planking. Honduras mahogany is used sometimes. Stay away from Philippine mahogany as it is a word for several species of limited use. |
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#3
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| Philippine mahogany has a bad rep because it covers such a broad range of the shoera family. These are the meranti timber and the dark reds are quite good, but it does take some experience to note the differences, so you can reject a bad sheet or plank. I wouldn't discount meranti if you can get some good stuff. Meranti plywood is usually quite good, especially if 1088 or 6566 marked. You also can substitute species for those used in your boat, but the substitute should have similar physical qualities as the original species. An example of this would be that I often substitute live oak for white in my area. It's readily available, it's stronger, slight more rot resistant and isn't as prone to checking or splitting because of it's interlocking grain. A good boat carpenter can identify the species used in your boat or a little research on your part, will likely be as fruitful. Lastly, Teresa, do yourself a big favor and remove the image of the receipt or at least blur out the name and address, lest you get some unwanted trouble. Nothing illegal or anything, but some guys will hop on any opportunity to take advantage of a woman, particularly if she's cute and they have an address in hand. I don't know if you're cute or even if this is your address, but just saying . . . |
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#4
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| there was goldbergs in uxbridge,robbins timber,and when i lived in alresford a timber company in danbury near maldon which sold pitchpine,if you cant get pitchpine,larch,or mahogany for planking,for the frames,post etc you can use oak,iroko,opepe,danta, |
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#5
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| Thanks for all of that. You seem to all confirm my suspicion which is that it depends on what i can get and what it costs. Time to befriend some timber merchants. Have been to Thoroghgoods and seen Robbins on the internet. I appreciate the help as it is hard to know who to trust. So here's another question. I've attached a picture of some broken ribs. I don't want to replace them so what is the best way to strengthen them? Teresa |
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#6
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| I have always fixed accessible breaks like this by using a 4" grinder and hogging out a 4 plank tapered section (2 planks up and 2 down) of the frame, centered on the break. It should have some curve to it to facilitate the laminations fitting down. Remove fasteners if possible. Laminate thin (under 1/8") pieces the width of the frame in with thickened epoxy and monel staples using an air stapler. Let harden. Use the grinder to take the repair piece down to the frame contour. Rivet through with copper nails over roves. Here's the technique on a smaller boat that did not require the repair piece to be laminated. |
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#7
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| Bataan has it and it's relatively simple, though working conditions generally suck. Those broken ribs are tension cracks and happen for a number of reasons, least of which is an impact. Access the structure and fix the problem(s) or they'll just reappear. |
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#8
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| Nice drawing PAR, but I like the lines curved because the lams pull down better. |
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#9
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| can you buy clinker boatbuilding by john leather |
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#10
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| The right hand side of the repair (image) has a curved glue line, though the left doesn't. I've found it doesn't really matter much, as space and access limitations usually dictate how "clean" you can work and often the case is; just get it close enough so thickened epoxy can work it's gap filling magic. |
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#11
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| Agree. The proper use of epoxy is paramount to the repair working. |
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#12
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| Epoxy And so you bring me to my next question: this epoxy stuff? An idiot's guide to would be great! So far i have suggestions to use it with various other things to seal the deck, for a glue for various jobs, for filling small holes. Is it magic or what? |
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#13
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| Go to the WEST systems website. Here are some publications you can use. Go to this page: http://www.westsystem.com/ss/how-to-publications -- on this page scroll down to '002-970 Wooden Boat Restoration and Repair' and download the PDF. Read this and then you will have more questions for us. |
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#14
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| It is magic, but it is not a cure all. Make sure it is suitable for your intended purpose. The guys (and gals) here will keep you pointed in the right direction.
__________________ LP ---------- God bless the open minded people of the world. LP |
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