Screw holes Question

Wood plugs is what I would prefer but this boat I am working on has them filled with putty type filler, or wood dough. Whatever you want to call it. When I cleaned out a couple of the sloppier putty jobs, I tried to get the screw out and alas, its no use. One screw came out and pulled the surrounding wood up with it. Here is my question, is it possible to either make a jig for my router and cut shallow holes, to the top of the screw, and then plug it with matching wood, or is it "the norm" to use some kind of putty. Really, the putty on this boat has all spidered and looks bad. Is there a tried and true method for creating a plug hole with the screw in place already? My matching set of plug bits wont work because of the screw type pilot. Any other drill bit will tend to "walk". Maybe a "bowtie" type of patch, like the Japanese use in repairing? If you cant tell by my questions, I am seriously working towards getting this boat cleaned up and looking great. My questions, I hope, are not too elementary. Thanks for your replies and guidance. Once I get some info I need, I'm back to work! I love having this boat!

 

Putty is used when the counter sink can't be made deep enough to accept a fair portion of bung and reliably stay put. Thin materials, painted surfaces and plywood are the usual suspects for such treatment. It's generally wise, to drill the taper of the counter sink so that it provides the bearing surface in the outer veneer of ply. This may permit putty, but isn't deep enough for a bung. They do sell a very thin, wafer like dummy bung that can be installed, but they tend to crack, split and don't take much sanding or wear before showing the underlying fastener head. I've even resorted to cutting veneers for this type of effort, but only on restoration work, where matching grain with a quad zero rapidograph and an air brush could be necessary.

To remove fasteners with the least amount of damage, burn out the putty with a screw driver that's been hit with a torch. Pressing in the driver tip will vaporizes most of the putty and what's left can be picked out. Personally, I don't bother any more with trying to remove them, I just drill them and use a bolt extractor. This is the truly sure method to get them out, without stripping slots, breaking heads off, etc. The extractor can be worked slowly, so the crushed wood, putty and head can leave little damage as they come out. A way to minimize damage to surrounding wood is to clamp a block over the fastener, which has a hole in it, large enough to allow an extractor or driver bit to turn the screw head. Back off the fastener until it hits the block, remove the block and slowly remove the screw. It may require the block be removed a few times until the hole is cleaned by the rising fastener. Experience will train your hands the best, so start in areas that have little visibility, while you learn.

You can always enlarge the counter sink diameter for a bigger bunk if the hole is badly damaged.

 

Thanks so much for your help...I havee long forgotten the block method for minimizing tear out. I think I still have a couple size jigs stashed in my shop. Ii just need to get an extractor and get after it! This doesnt seem like work to me, its a labor of love for this old boat. I look forward to my completion.
Y'all have been a great service. I like visiting this message board. In addition to my interest in wood boats, I collect antique fishing tackle, lures, hooks and old reels. If you dont know by now, these items command a high value and if you have anything like old lures, let me know. Some sell high enough to enable one to buy an old boat! Thanks again and I look forward to solving my next problem...when it arrives! mike