replacing grown frames etc

[Cornish Mark]

Hi I am replacing grown frames & they are only rot were the floors are bolted to the frames, so to replace the hole of the frame will mean ripping of the gunwalls which are nailed with 3" cut nails.
Iwas wondering if it was a wise idea to leave the top 14" & splice in the new frame using tree nails & glue.Would this be strong enough ?

Also being an open boat what is the best for the bilge paint or the old fishermans favorite roofing pitch, as I dont want to be rebuilding this boat again in my life time I hope.

[Bergalia]

Originally Posted by Cornish Mark

Also being an open boat what is the best for the bilge paint or the old fishermans favorite roofing pitch, as I dont want to be rebuilding this boat again in my life time I hope.

Depends how much life you think you've got left

Anything over 18 months and I'd recommend doing the job properly. Replace the frames completely. And pitch is hard to beat, being both reasonably cheap, a good sealant, and clears the lungs while you apply it.

[Cornish Mark]

Thanks me old task master, I will have to burn some midnight oil to get it all done as well as add another couple of planks on the bill for the gunwall cappings.
Wish I wernt so passionate about living boats having a soul & got a plastic one instead, but then the Mrs would only have me decoraiting the house with all the spare time i would have.

[Bergalia]

There is no such thing as spare time, Cornish Mark, when you own a wooden boat. But at least you own a 'Real' boat and not a piece of Tupperware. When you get down to replacing those frames you'll discover it's not such a difficult task, if done with commonsense. It will also put you on more 'intimate'terms with your vessel. As I've said before to other owners - it puts you in touch with the heart and organs of the boat. You'll get to know every creak and groan - and mentally tick off what the source is - and not panic thinking she's breaking up, simply stretching her limbs. Good luck, and trust me it'll be well worthwhile.

[Cornish Mark]

Apart from the time taken fitting the frames tight to the hull, which i was going to do using chalk to pick up the high spots it dont pose too many problems.The headache is replaceing A 1" thick plank of oak stem to stern without the luxury of ribs to clamp to, like in a new build.
As for getting to know the boat intimately stripping all the paint off inside & out was pritty hot stuff & a quick grope n tug in her bilges soon pulled the steamed frames out, which im half way through replacing.

[Bergalia]

Don't rush it Mark. Make yourself a set of internal 'formers' (a removable skeleton of false ribs) to hold the shape of the new planking until you can replace the 'real' ribs. Scrap timber or exterior ply (scrounge it from old building sites) is ideal for shaping formers - and burns well once you've finished with it.

[Cornish Mark]

HI I am replacing all the rot grown frames & steamed frames first, then i have one full plank & 2 butts to replace.
The problem is that the replacment plank has original planks above & below so apart from wedging it in place with poles as i nail it home or eating aload of spinach & pushin it in place by hand I cant see any alternatives.

[Bergalia]

Mark - are we talking clinker (lapstrake) or carvel planking?
But either way try using a Spanish windlass. Fasten one end of planking (preferably the stern) and at opposite side of bows have a sturdy anchor post; leave the plank proud, and attach windlass to anchor post and proud end of planking. Insert stout pole, and twist, easing the plank into place. Lock the pole - and nail the plank home. Finally trim the planking to size.Though a good steaming should alleviate much of the stress.

[Cornish Mark]

The boat is carvel planking with 2 by5 inch grown frames 12" centers bow & stern with 18" centers amidships with 2 steamed frames between 18"
with 1" iroko planks.
So in my limited wizdome as i have the choice of both timbers to play with thought oak plank would bend easyer than iroko.Also by fitting the plank the way you say do i just mark off the rabit angle etc for the stem & leave an extra foot on until i ground out on the stem post, then i spose its down to grunt to get the last bit home.
Kind regards Mark.

[Bergalia]

I'm advising you blind, here Mark. But that sounds about right. An extra couple of foot would make for easier bending - and on both iroko and oak you'll still need an extra pair of hands to prevent lateral twisting while you fit.
Good luck.