PeeroSail build

Can I recommend bow and stern lockers?

In the pirogues I paddled around Florida swamps as a teen, they all had a "collision" bulkhead in the ends. It rested on top of internal chine logs and open on the bottom for drainage. A triangular "locker bottom" floated (not fastened) on the chine logs inside. And each had a hinged lid, secured with a twist window sash lock. Good storage and dry, and strengthens the ends.

And a high seat when wanted.

 

As this is for local ponds and small lakes... and subject to car topping on my S-10 Blazer... I need to keep the weight down. The tanks would add an additional 15 lbs or so and while keeping the boat floating higher... there is still an awful lot of bathtub open space to bail out. Being able to stand in shallow water and basically lift the boat out of the water and pour it empty isn't an option in the deeper stuff so I want to be able to sail it flatter, without having to sit on the chine log and worry about going over in stuff over my head. This way I have the best of both worlds... No foil in really thin water and something with some more bite when in the deeper stuff and still SUV toppable.

 

Been lurking your thread for a while. I like the idea of the extended chines instead of a lee/dagger/centerboard. But it seems to me if you move the mast aft it would be a better way to solve the weather helm. or the extended chines should have been installed further forward. Reducing their size will not change the relationship between the center of lateral resistance vs. the sail location. Only the addition of the lee board would effectively move the center of lateral resistance of the hull further forward.

 

Why would I move the mast aft? That would give me more weather helm... Getting the CE of the sail forward (or the CLR further aft) is what needs to happen and having the leeboard there will do the job. The weather helm only appears as the boat heels a lot... which is needed for LR without any foil. Under moderate heel it has only minor weather helm and dead flat it seems neutral (but that only happens in very light air. I suspect that, although I tried to get the chine runners as flat as possible, there is a slight scoop to them... something like 1/8"-1/4" which is most evident in the middle section. I took out most of that and it looks pretty straight now. We'll see how things go.

 

yes, you are correct of course. my error. I think, as you describe it, as it heels you lift the upwind chin out of the water, which is giving you your keel effect. Once heeled you likely get very little keel effect. for the extended chines to work, to make the hull act more like a keel, as a "lifting body", the chine has to stay in the water which means you need a boat small enough so weight shift can keep the hull on an even keel, or the hull has to be deep enough (with enough displacement) to keep it in the water.

I have been fascinated with the idea of making the hull a lifting body and eliminate a keel or dagger board, but it looks like there are some limitations to how it would work.

 

If you decide you need more lateral resistance, I once saw a canoe with a single leeboard. A line ran from a low center point of boat over top of gunwale and knotted through a hole in leeboard. water pressure kept it in place. When tacking, the leeboard was swapped to the other side.

 

When you look at your photos, weather helm in a puff of wind kind of stands to reason, doesn't it?

In light wind, the trim is down by the stern, which creates a CLR quite far aft.

When the wind picks up, the natural tendency is to hike out, which also encourages the helmsman move forward to get to the wide part of the hull. As the boat heels, the CLR moves forward both because of the shape of the hull as well as changes in the position of the dynamic load (i.e. you).

I think you're on the right track in adding a leeboard toward the aft end of the extended chine.

I appreciate you sharing your experimentation with us, it's a great learning opportunity. In retrospect, would you widen the beam aft to allow the underwater shape to carry a more consistent CLR regardless of angle of heel?

I don't think your extended chines are causing any problem, and I hypothesize that they'd be more effective with a hullshape which had a more consistent CLR as the angle of heel changes.

 

Guess I forgot to update this. Last October I went to Sail Oklahoma so I did some modifying of the boat. I made a clip on daggerboard, trimmed the chine runners (above) and made a push/pull tiller with the rudder assembly from my old ScoutCanu. It worked well enough but I need to attach a peg to the tiller to lock it down in neutral position so I can paddle. It was a royal pain with it flopping all over, falling overboard and generally steering me every way but the one I wanted to go in. Its an easy fix, I'll just attach a peg to the tiller handle that will fit into the thole holes and lock it so the blade is centered. Unfortunately the blade is still partially in the water even when kicked up, mainly because the boat is trimmed aft with only one person in it.

Tiller and Rudder head:


Ruder head and tiller pivot


Stainless blade I scavenged for the above rudder assembly


The old ScoutCanu/tri/outrigger thingy before it got the metal blade rudder.