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#1
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| My Project I just started the process of refreshing a red cedar over douglas fir hull. The very early stages actually, as she was pulled at high tide this afternoon. It was my first time to examine the hull below the water line. Above the water line she has her planks flush with no caulking and caulked from just above the water line. I believe I will have to replace a couple of planks (cracks) and refasten some of the planks. The seems are tight for the most part with just a couple of problem areas. I'm fortunate to live in a town that has a large population of good shipwrights and wood working boats. I will have many questions throughout this process for this forum and have already received great advice so far. I used roll on pickup bed liner (Hurcul-something) on the fiberglass tub that caps the house. It sealed the lid and is non skid. I don't think that the color black will be a problem in the Alaskan climate and may help when the snow flies. I'm not sure if it is paintable, but I'm not planning on it at this point as I'm more a function over form type. I'll keep you all posted on how well it weathers in our climate. Thanks in advance for the answers I'm sure I'll receive over the coarse of this restoration. |
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#2
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| Congratulations.... Donīt let her sit on the trailer in that position. She needs more support under the chine. Regards Richard |
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#3
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| She didn't sit on it long. It was only used to haul her out of the water. She is now blocked up in the yard where I'm going to work on the hull. One question that I have is on dressing the out hull seems. I was told that concrete to fill the seems over the caulking works well for this type of application. Any truth to that rumor? |
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#4
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| Nonsense....... |
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#5
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| supports thanks for the reply. I don't know what to was used to dress the seams over the cotton, but it is black and still pliable. Actually is still a bit sticky, kinda. She does have a copper patch on the hull. I want to remove it to see what it is hiding and repair it, and at the same time leave it as it seems to be working well. Guess I'll see what I can on the inside of the hull and decide from there. I've gone through and looked, probed, tapped on most of the hull and didn't see anything that would indicate a patch on the hull. I've attached pictures of her supports |
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#6
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| A mixture of cement (not concrete) and linseed oil can be used on underwater seams where it will remain pliable indefinitely in the water. |
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#7
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| Cement, my bad. |
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#8
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| ah cement- that does not sound too good to me. First you need to reef out as much old caulk as you can. Then fill it with something permanent that won't shrink. If it were me, I'd use epoxy. Some people won't like this- traditionalists, I know. But epoxy is what I'd use and never think of it again. |
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#9
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| Quote:
You would destroy the hull in no time. Regards Richard |
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#10
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| A mix of roofing tar and portland cement is commonly used in underwater seams on the West Coast. Red Lead putty used to be used but it's expensive and hard to find (close to impossible in Canada). Tar and cement was/is used in fishing boats because it's cheap and available. Cement cures underwater but very slowly, it will be pliable for a while as the planks swell, over time it will harden nicely. Don't put the cement in the seams and leave her up for another month. Do the seams and launch in a few days at most. If you hit something hard the cement will fall out, then put her on the tidal grid and replace, cost is a couple of bucks. Do not use epoxy....when the planks swell the epoxy will not move and will break wood and tear out fastenings.
__________________ http://www.tadroberts.ca http://www.passagemakerlite.com http://blog.tadroberts.ca/ |
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#11
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| Epoxy will kill your boat. If you put that on, your worries will start very soon. The caravel planked boat you own is a flexible structure. Expoxy will lock the seams and create all kinds of havoc. I am anything but a traditionalist. However, as a shipwright and surveyor, have seen too many boats ruined by using the wrong materials.
__________________ Gonzo |
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#12
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| Thank you for the comments. The work starts tomorrow. I'm planning on not going the Epoxy route for this boat. Well for limited uses. I've learned a lot on this forum already methinks. I meet with a shipwright tomorrow to go through her in the early am. I have a weather window this week to get the hull above the water line scrapped, sanded, primed, and painted. I'm planning on using a method used here a bit from my understanding. A weed burner to blister the paint and scrape it off. I'll update here with questions if the group is cool with that, and thanks for your interest in my little project. Warning: This is going to be a multi year project- |
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#13
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| the latest update Hello all, Well those interested in this project. I have one side almost done. Now just finish scraping, sand, and paint. Maurice Bury of Victoria (who has since pasted from the information I have been able to gather) did excellent work. The shipwright I had look at her gave the hull a clean bill of health. I do have 3 planks to replace, not necessary now, but I will because I don't want to have her out again for a few years. I don't have any questions tonight but I want to keep the group informed on the process so when I do have questions you'll know where I'm at. Thanks in advance |
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#14
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| Well here is my progress on day 3. |
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#15
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| progress Well all I need is a weather window and I can get the first coat on the port side. Sanded and faired. I'm planing on reefing the seams and re-caulking. To dress the seams I want to use traditional methods. Any suggestions from the group? |
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