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Old 10-21-2007, 02:22 PM
Squidly-Diddly Squidly-Diddly is offline
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How are these wood preservatives applied?

From "Boat Design Wiki".....

Boron-Based Wood Preservatives

General information on Boron-based wood preservation: http://www.borax.com/wood/

Boron compounds are among the most effective and versatile wood preservative systems available, offering broad-spectrum efficacy and low toxicity. Here is a paper discussing the successful use of Boron compounds to protect old wooden boats: http://www.maritime.org/conf/conf-casebolt.htm

BackupLocation: http://terryking.us/boatbuilding/Bor...oodenBoats.pdf
[edit]
Home Brewed Wood Preservatives

Home-Brew Water Solution of Borates: All percentages for this recipe and the others here are percentages by weight. Based on U.S. Navy spec. of 60% borax-40% boric acid (this ratio gives the maximum solubility of borates in water); 65% water, 20 %borax, 15% boric acid; 15.8% borates; borax costs 54 cents/lb. (supermarket), boric acid costs about $4/lb. in drug stores (sometimes boric acid roach poison, 99% boric acid, is cheaper in discount stores); equiv. to Tim-BorŽ or Ship-BorŽ at 30 cents/lb.

To make this solution mix the required quantities and heat until dissolved. The boric acid, in particular, dissolves slowly. This solution is stable (nocrystals) overnight in a refrigerator (40°F.), so can be used at temperatures at least as low as 40°F.

Home-Brew Glycol Solution of Borates: This is equivalent to Bora-CareŽ diluted with an equal volume of glycol to make it fluid enough to use handily; 50% glycol antifreeze, 28% borax, 22% boric acid.

To make a stable solution you mix the ingredients and heat till boiling gently. Boil off water until a candy thermometer shows 260°F. This removes most of the water of crystallization in the borax. This solution is stable at 40°F and has a borate content of 26%. With antifreeze at $6/gal. and borax and boric acid prices as above, this is equivalent to Bora-CareŽ at about $15/gal.



At what stage and to extent do you apply this stuff?

I've done dryrot repair to houses where 'the rules' required each piece of wood to be 'primed' before installation, but since we weren't going to wait an hour before installing each piece it made the job rather wet.

What about treating the screw/nail holes? Do you drill pilot holes, fill with preservative, then install screw?

Are you supposed to soak your wood in this stuff for some length of time, then let dry, then cut to shape?

Do they work with an epoxy (waterproofing) coating?
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